utility trailers

david43a · Jul 18, 2003

I sold my 5x8 utility trailer and want to buy a trailer to haul my tractor around, with some attachments [ brush hog, box blade, disc, back hoe , chain harrow ] I have a bx22 tractor I believe it weighs about 1,500 lbs with the backhoe and loader about 2500 lbs. I was thinking of a 16 foot x 6 foot with two 3,500 lbs axals. I have a one ton GMC Savana Van with 10,000 gvw towing capasity. I saw a trailer for about $ 1,000 dollars new [ have to add tax and registration to price..] I can also get a trailer with breaks on one axal for about $ 1,300 dollars new My question was are trailer breaks necessary ? Can you add they in the future if needed ?
I have another wild Idea I would like to get a 15 foot dump trailer I think it is rated 14,000 gvw towing capasity. The cost is about $ 5,000. [ this is more than I could afford right now, also I don't know how to increase the gvw on my van ? I would try to convince myself that I would not exceed 10,000 gvw weight but I would sometimes. I don't like the idea of filling the trailer with my tractor and than having to empty it by hand /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Any suggestions or advice on trailer selection would be appreciated thanks David.

Joe1 · Jul 18, 2003

David: The only one that can increase the GVW rating on a vehicle is the manufacturer. You could add stronger springs, etc, but you still have the same size tires, axle, bearings, etc. Also, your class III hitch platform is probably rated for a maximum of 1,000 lbs, although some class IV's can go to either 1,200 or 1,400 lbs. With a 14,000 lb trailer behind, you would need at least 1,400 - 1,700 lbs on the hitch for proper towing or else the trailer will sway on you. If you do get a large trailer and load it heavilly and tow a lot, I'd recommend some sort of equallizer hit to distribute the load.

There are smaller dump trailers out there. There are also some tilt trailers that are a possible compromise. They are lighter and cheaper than real dump trailers, but don't tilt to the same angle as a dump trailer, so you might have to move some material by hand.

I personally think any trailer heavy enough to need four wheels needs brakes, preferably on all four wheels. The easiest way to add brakes later on is to swap axles for one with brakes.

Just some food for thought. Hope this helps. Good luck.

BB_TX · Jul 18, 2003

The brakes will greatly improve your stopping power. If you decide to go without brakes now, be sure the trailer you get has axles with brake flanges. Then you can add brakes later yourself for $150 or so + controller. You can get the brakes at Northern Tools and also Tractor Supply I think.

Bird · Jul 18, 2003

David, tow ratings are based on a number of factors; engine power, type of transmission, suspension, hitch, differential gear ratio, cooling capacity, braking ability, etc. And the manufacturer doesn't know what kind of towing environment you will be in; flat level ground, mountains, hot weather, cold weather, windy or calm, rough roads or smooth, high speeds or slow, cross country, or just a mile down the road. They also don't know what your level of expertise and knowledge are when it comes to trailer towing, automotive engineering, etc.

One of the things I was taught in connection with an entirely different undertaking was to "Go by the book until you know more than the book." In other words, you don't have to go by the book all the time; just be sure you're right when you think you know more than the book. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Now I would certainly recommend a tandem axle trailer with brakes on both axles, staying within the van's tow rating, and would prefer that for myself; however, when I bought my Kubotas my brother already had one of the 16' x 6' tandem axle trailers, 3500 pound axles, no brakes, and it stayed at my place. So we both used it at times to haul the Kubotas (B7100 and B2710) with implements. He had a half ton Suburban with 3.42 gearing (certainly not ideal) and I had an old (1981) three quarter ton Ford pickup. We have both been pulling trailers since we were teenagers, usually had short distances to go, little or no traffic, etc.

In other words, the cheaper trailer will do if you're careful, and that most expensive trailer would be even better. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Pks · Jul 18, 2003

David,

I was lucky enough to walk away from a catastrophic experience that was caused by not having trailer breaks and knowledge about trailering. GET THE BRAKES! Please!!

The incident, in which I was involved, closed a major highway. When the rescue personnel got there, they broke down shaking when I walked up to them to say hello. They thought I should have been dead.

MarkV · Jul 18, 2003

David,

You are fortunate that you already have a vehicle that is rated for all you will need to tow your tractor. That is where so many people get themselves in trouble. For the extra $300 get the brakes on at least one axle. You will save that in brake repair to the van over time and be much less likely to face a situation that like Peter had. Glad to hear you plan on buying enough trailer for what you plan to haul. I always back off when I see the ½ ton pickup towing a 10k skid steer down the road on an over loaded trailer with its rear bumper almost dragging the ground. Very scary to me. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

MarkV

PondKeeper · Jul 18, 2003

I think the distance you intend to trailer is important. If you are only going to trailer the tractor infrequently and within a few miles that might make the brakes less critical.

IMO, once you have the mobility then you will inevitably go farther and even if you are only traveling a few miles there is the chance you will need to stop in an emergency (or on a downhill) and the last thing you want is that trailer pushing you. I have a trailer close to the size you mentioned 16 x 6.5 and I have both axles with brakes and I feel comfortable with that. I haul a tractor that weighs about 3200# with attachments.

BTW, I wouldn't go less than the 16, even the BX needs the length for a good load balance.

Mike

SnowRidge · Jul 18, 2003

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I can also get a trailer with breaks on one axal for about $ 1,300 dollars new My question was are trailer breaks necessary ? Can you add they in the future if needed ? )</font>

By coincidence, I am currently in the process of adding brakes to my 6x10 cargo trailer. I have been pulling it loaded (2990 GVW) without brakes, and the last time got kind of scary.

Yes, it can be done, provided the axles have brake mounting flanges. These are square (usually) plates with four holes in them. A peek under the trailer will tell you if they are there.

If they are not there, they can in theory be added by a very good weldor. TSC sells them, but I would be extremely careful as they must be welded in exactly the right position.

If you are going to add brakes and you have a Dexter axle (the most common), I suggest you purchase one of their electric brake conversion kits. Dexter has a web presence and you can search their catalog for the right part number(s) for your application. You can then buy elsewhere and save some money.

I am doing it the hard way. I didn't know about the kits and bought the bits and pieces. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

BTW, I trailer between Tennessee and Florida, and sometimes Virginia, so I looked up state trailering laws. In the process, I discovered that while most states only require brakes if the trailer GVW is 3000# or more, a few are much lower, and some states require brakes on both axles of a brake equipped dual axle trailer.

SnowRidge

MossRoad · Jul 18, 2003

I have an 18 foot car hauler with all steel deck, two 3500# axles and brakes on all for wheels. It weighs about 1500#. I did not have a brake controller. I thought, what the heck, I'll try it out without the brakes. I loaded up my 1300# Power Trac PT425 and several implements.. I figure it weighed in around 4000# - 4500#. It starts off just fine and runs down the road very smooth. Only problem is you cannot stop! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif At 45MPH it feels like it trippled the stopping distance and you could definately feel the weight pushing you as you try to stop. Also, you could easily overheat your brakes. I used the tranny to help slow down and planned my stopping way ahead, but in an emergency situation, say some nut pulls out in front of me, I am going to crash. I have since bought a brake controller and am in the process of installing it. I have towed out to my property and to the little league a few times, but I will not go over 30MPH and only take back roads with little to no traffic.

I suggest you get the brakes. You will be much more comfortable and it will save wear and tear on your tow vehicle. Good luck in your trailer hunt. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

david43a · Jul 19, 2003

Thanks for the sould advice I will look for trailer breaks hopefully both axals ! The road going up to my drive way is pretty steep! And it is very hilly around here.I don't want the tractor and trailer pushing me down hill. I rember towing a fully loader home made trailer on the freeway and having to stop quickly it did not happen it took a while to stop luckally I avoided an accident that day I will stay within the gvw of my van. I may look into a tilt trailer maby there wouldn't be as much hand work as a regular trailer when I go to the dump. Thanks David. [ I read pond keepers tailer post you have a nice trailer ! ]