Wallenstein fx110

[Mallard1]

I made a thread about using log rings to pull logs out of the woods and that has sent me down a rabbit hole of logging winches. We have a large acreage of hardwood timber that we have no plans to harvest. However we have plenty blow down every year and every year talk about how much money is rotting away from down trees. This year we had a wind storm that blocked a lot of our trails and we did haul out the logs to the saw mill. Now thinking of getting a 3pt winch and pulling out some of the closer logs.

The tractors being used are a 48hp jd4320 with loaded tires. And a NH work master 75. It looks like the fx110 would be a good fit. Can anyone give me a reason I shouldn’t get one? Also how many releasing snatch blocks would be recommended?

 

[newbury]

Have you realistically analyzed how much you can expect to sell and for how much?
Mixed hardwood sawtimber was going for < $30/ton 4th quarter 2022, compared to ~$40/ton in 2015.
source
http://extension.msstate.edu/sites/default/files/topic-pdfs/Timber Prices/4q-2022-price-report.pdf

 

[Mallard1]

We sold red oak for $80 ton and white oak for $90 ton 2 weeks ago. I don’t plan to mess with gum or hickory. We have historically sold a lot a timber. just now not cutting any hardwood for the foreseeable future and just managing pine. This will be something completely separate and just because I don’t like to see them rot.

Also the prices you showed are stumpage vs we are getting delivered price which will be $20-25 ton higher.

 

[Mallard1]

Anyone use this model and have any feedback on it, any reason I should look at a different manufacturer?

 

[Gordon Gould]

Any main line winch manufacturer would be fine. They all make good solid winches. Pick one that has the features you like. The winch mechanisms will not be troublesome or lacking in any way.

Edit: A winch from main manufacturer like Wallenstein or Farmi or any other popular one will hold it's value for a long long time.

gg

 

[oldtimer 66]

I have almost the same setup. I have the Wallenstein FX110 with remote and a John Deere compact 4320 with cab. I know I have some pictures. The cab caused a problem mounting the winch. I had to modify the top link on the winch and the cut down the safety screen so I wouldn't break the back window and hit the roof of the cab. The remote caused problems at first because of debris in the control valve. Its a work safer though. My model had a 2 button remote which I converted to a single button. The way I understand it now the new ones are a larger single button remote. I bough one self releasing snatch block but I don't use it any more. For what ever reason it pinched the cable real bad once. I use the cheap Harbor Freight snatch blocks now. I have modified them to use a draw bar grab hook. Another thing I don't choke around the tree with the nylon strap. I use a basket hitch with the draw bar grab hooks. I have pulled really hard at times and the choker around the tree has taken the bark off all the way around the tree. I have 2 of the HF snatch blocks modified and another to modify. For me 3 snatch blocks will work perfectly. I bought the winch because my hip was starting to bother me from getting on and off the tractor when skidding the logs with the draw bar. You know how that is. Hook up to short, hook up to long etc. Only problem now is that my hip bothers me all the time. I have the loaded tires, wheel weights and chains when I am working in the woods. I modified the kick stand to a single from the doubles and I leave it on all the time. There are a couple of pictures of the snatch block modifications.

 

[Mallard1]

I have almost the same setup. I have the Wallenstein FX110 with remote and a John Deere compact 4320 with cab. I know I have some pictures. The cab caused a problem mounting the winch. I had to modify the top link on the winch and the cut down the safety screen so I wouldn't break the back window and hit the roof of the cab. The remote caused problems at first because of debris in the control valve. Its a work safer though. My model had a 2 button remote which I converted to a single button. The way I understand it now the new ones are a larger single button remote. I bough one self releasing snatch block but I don't use it any more. For what ever reason it pinched the cable real bad once. I use the cheap Harbor Freight snatch blocks now. I have modified them to use a draw bar grab hook. Another thing I don't choke around the tree with the nylon strap. I use a basket hitch with the draw bar grab hooks. I have pulled really hard at times and the choker around the tree has taken the bark off all the way around the tree. I have 2 of the HF snatch blocks modified and another to modify. For me 3 snatch blocks will work perfectly. I bought the winch because my hip was starting to bother me from getting on and off the tractor when skidding the logs with the draw bar. You know how that is. Hook up to short, hook up to long etc. Only problem now is that my hip bothers me all the time. I have the loaded tires, wheel weights and chains when I am working in the woods. I modified the kick stand to a single from the doubles and I leave it on all the time. There are a couple of pictures of the snatch block modifications.

View attachment 822202View attachment 822206View attachment 822207View attachment 822208View attachment 822213

Thank you for your reply, good to hear the 4320 is up to the task. Also thank you for the info on the snatch blocks.

Would you consider the remote worth the $2000 upgrade.

What about synthetic rope for $1000?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I have a Wallerstein winch, I would not even consider synthetic rope! It won't last like steel.

Only other brand I'd consider is Farmi, but I am happy with my Wallerstein.

I pulled a lot of trees with mine and it's been a great buy!

SR

 

[Mallard1]

I have almost the same setup. I have the Wallenstein FX110 with remote and a John Deere compact 4320 with cab. I know I have some pictures. The cab caused a problem mounting the winch. I had to modify the top link on the winch and the cut down the safety screen so I wouldn't break the back window and hit the roof of the cab. The remote caused problems at first because of debris in the control valve. Its a work safer though. My model had a 2 button remote which I converted to a single button. The way I understand it now the new ones are a larger single button remote. I bough one self releasing snatch block but I don't use it any more. For what ever reason it pinched the cable real bad once. I use the cheap Harbor Freight snatch blocks now. I have modified them to use a draw bar grab hook. Another thing I don't choke around the tree with the nylon strap. I use a basket hitch with the draw bar grab hooks. I have pulled really hard at times and the choker around the tree has taken the bark off all the way around the tree. I have 2 of the HF snatch blocks modified and another to modify. For me 3 snatch blocks will work perfectly. I bought the winch because my hip was starting to bother me from getting on and off the tractor when skidding the logs with the draw bar. You know how that is. Hook up to short, hook up to long etc. Only problem now is that my hip bothers me all the time. I have the loaded tires, wheel weights and chains when I am working in the woods. I modified the kick stand to a single from the doubles and I leave it on all the time. There are a couple of pictures of the snatch block modifications.

View attachment 822202View attachment 822206View attachment 822207View attachment 822208View attachment 822213

Also I see the model with the remote uses one of the rear remotes, what are you controlling with this and when do you use it? Thanks

 

[Gordon Gould]

A couple mods I made on my self-release snatch block. If you are using 3/8" cable or smaller it can easily jam under the sheave like this

which causes a bad kink as oldtimer mentioned.

I brazed a section of rod on the frame to prevent this

I didn't like the permanently attached sling so I made this from a shackle.

That way I can set the strap on the tree w/o dealing with the 13 lb snatch block hanging on it. Once the strap is set it is quick and easy to connect the block.

Be careful to set the strap/block so it splits the angle the cable will make. That way the strap will not spin around the tree when pressure is applied and bark the tree.

gg

 

[ericm979]

Gordon posted those snatch block mods before I bought my winch. They were part of a whole thread or sub-thread about snatch block problems. I took those problems into account when selecting a snatch block for my winch. I ended up with an Igland block which has performed well for me without jamming the cable.

Igland Self-Releasing Snatch Block

On back order until mid April. Maximum load: 6 tons. For use with wire cable up to 1/2” diameter. Made by Igland of Norway.

stewardshipsuppliers.com

my only issue is that I got straps with reinforced eyes, and that makes the strap's eye stiff so it sometimes slips off the pointy end of the block that's supposed to retain it after you put it through the hole. I need to either weld an extension on or cut off the reinforcing material. The self-releasing feature is really useful. Rigging the strap so it does not rotate about the tree prevents it from damaging the bark.


My winch is a Uniforest 35M. For my tractor which is heavy for a 37hp machine, I think I could have gone with a 4.5 ton. I'm pulling logs for firewood so I can always make them shorter if I have to. The Uniforest and similar designs from Slovenia all have long 230' cables which I wanted since a lot of my land is inaccessible to the tractor which means I may have to pull from a distance. So far I have not needed more than about 120' but I have not gone after any trees far back off the road. I would love to have a remote. For my use of a tree or two at a time it's not a big deal to walk back to the tractor but if you're talking $$ per ton it'll be a useful time saver for working solo.

 

[TractorTYMe]

I don't have a Wallenstein, but they are considered top notch quality. I bought a Tajfun AGV45A (10k# winch) simply what was available. Montana seem to be a dry spot for proper logging equipment for tractors since we don't have any trees, huh? [/strong saracasm]

 

[fruitcakesa]

I bougt a used Norse 450 winch for my M and it has performed well and dependably except for the times I allowed slack in the cable ad ended up with a tangled mess that ultimately required me to replace the badlt kinked cable. I bought an igland SR snatch block but after more than a year have yet to need/use it. I carry an old no name snatch that has come in handy when I need to redirect a tree when falling.

 

[oldtimer 66]

On the choke setup, I would get it as tight by hand and aligned as best I could. I don't think alignment was my problem. I know I would fight to loosen the strap after doing a pull or several pulls from that spot. But thanks for the suggestion Gordon. What I do now is look for dead stumps and or I will dress up a stump with the chain saw so it will take a strap/ basket hitch. I don't like to hook to live trees. If I do the basket seems to me to be the best option. The FX 110 has .44 cable but that still could have been the problem with it slipping under the pully. I agree with Sawyer Rob on the synthetic rope, it's not worth it.

On the remote , when I bought my winch in 2015 the list was $6500 and the dealer gave it to me for $6000. I looked now and the unit is $9000 plus for the remote model. Talk about inflation. Below is one of the reasons I bought the remote plus I am working back at the tree/ stump and if there is a problem I can correct it right there without making the long walk thru brush etc.

I have probably mentioned this before, but the majority of my woods is on sidehill plus I have the cab tractor. When I can't make it up the hill I work the winch from inside the cab. I leave the log or logs unlocked drive a 100 some feet, stop and winch the logs up to the tractor, leave the logs again and drive up the hill some more, stop and winch the logs to the tractor and do this several times until I am on better ground.

On the hydraulic connection there is a single acting cylinder/ spring return/ inside the enclosure that engages the winch/ replaces the red rope? You need a set of hydraulic remotes/ open center/ and a 12 volt connection to work the 12v single acting control valve thru the hand held remote. I still have the green rope to lock the winch/ drum. Wallenstein describes this very well on the website.

 

[Mallard1]

thanks for all the replies, waiting to hear back on a quote for the winch and will see where we go from there.