I got the chipper on the back of the tractor this past week. Chipped up a few branches and limbs. .. think it may be due for a sharpening.. anyone done these blades before ? ..I'm not concerned about removing them and bringing them to a professional sharpener ..but is there a trick to re installing them ?
Wallenstien Chipper blades
- Thread starter Tomtint
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s219
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Wallenstein knives can be flipped, have you done that? If not, there is a whole unused second sharp edge waiting there. I haven't flipped my knives yet (been 8 years) but when I do, I plan to buy a second set of knives for backup so that I can rotate the sets and have one to use when the other gets sent out for sharpening.
No trick to removing and reinstalling them, but check the owner's manual for some tips. There is a trick to setting the depth of cut, which is shown in the owner's manual. There is a ledger, a flat plate that the knives "slice" against. You adjust the position of that to control how much wood is sliced off each time a knife passes the wood. That setting is very important. It should be checked from time to time.
No trick to removing and reinstalling them, but check the owner's manual for some tips. There is a trick to setting the depth of cut, which is shown in the owner's manual. There is a ledger, a flat plate that the knives "slice" against. You adjust the position of that to control how much wood is sliced off each time a knife passes the wood. That setting is very important. It should be checked from time to time.
I will take a look at it and see if the blades have been flipped yet. I bought it used and did not get the owners manual. .. Im just concerned about installing them wrong if I take them out.
jeff9366
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YES. If you chip only one type of wood, ie Christmas Tree debris, and determine the optimum gap, keen edge can last a long time.
If you chip miscellaneous, ie hardwood branches, softwood, vines, hard dry wood, juicy green wood etc., the gap is inevitably a compromise and the keen edge dulls sooner. Chip debris before too dry. Bone dry material heats the thin blade edge much more than moderately dry debris, accelerating deterioration.
I eventually took Wallenstein blades to a local machine shop for sharpening. Was about $40 for four really, really sharp but strong edges.
After three years I decided chipping was not good use of my time relative to the volume of material which needed disposal. Sold the Wallenstein and began burning.
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oosik
Epic Contributor
I've had my BX62S for seven years. I've not sharpened nor flipped the blades yet. No need - I only chip green pines. Be VERY careful. My seven year old blades are still razor sharp on the cutting side. Op Manual covers the models listed on the cover.
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Jim Nelson
Platinum Member
On my Bearcat chipper I'm always careful to clean both the blade and flywheel where they mate up as there is often dust and a kind of varnish like material on them. I chip everything from oak to brush and fruit tree trimmings. I have a 1" wide belt sander mounted on the work bench that will put a razors edge on them, you just need to be careful to not over heat them especially near the ends.
I believe its the the BX42
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bigtiller
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What grit of sandpaper do you use?
They have pretty good support and provide their latest manuals and parts lists on their website: Operators Manuals, Parts Manuals, & Assembly Manuals | Wallenstein Outdoor Power Equipment
Here's the manual: Operators Manuals, Parts Manuals, & Assembly Manuals | Wallenstein Outdoor Power Equipment
Jim Nelson
Platinum Member
I use 40 for the first couple of passes then 60. I have a Harbor Freight machine that took a little tweaking to get it just right like most of their stuff but it has been working great for several years now.
oosik
Epic Contributor
WoW!! It's 70F here. All this talk. So I went out and removed, inspected and reinstalled the stationary blade. After seven years of use it is sharp as a razor and straight as an arrow. A chunk of some super hard steel has been welded on the leading edges of the stationary blade.
There just isn't any real way of satisfactorily checking the stationary blade without removing it. Too much pitch & gunk down there. And it's too tight a spot to get my hand down there and run my finger up/down the blade.
There just isn't any real way of satisfactorily checking the stationary blade without removing it. Too much pitch & gunk down there. And it's too tight a spot to get my hand down there and run my finger up/down the blade.
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The Deerslayer
Platinum Member
I have a Bearcat as well and have had difficulty finding someone who can sharpen the blades. Found someone a distance away and for what it would cost to sharpen the two sets I have, been looking for a way to do it myself. Belt sander and dipping them periodically to keep cool seemed like a decent option. Glad you have had luck with it. I'll check out what HF has to offer.
thank you
Zebrafive
Super Member
What's involved removing the stationary blade? I have a BX62. Thanks
Jim Nelson
Platinum Member
I put a damp shop towel on the bench next to the machine and when the blade starts to heat up I put it on the towel and fold it over. Thet cools it pretty quick and don't have to worry about the temper of the blade.
I was able to easily flip the 4 blades on the rotating drum inside the chipper. They were pretty dull and the other side was brand new. Hopefully this helps the chipping process go smoother. There was no adjustment to these blades..they only go in one way and in one spot. I need to look at how the stationary blade bolts in as it probably needs to be flipped if possible or sharpened.
oosik
Epic Contributor
Be sure to remove and check the stationary blade. On my BX62 it takes a 3/4" socket. I used a large breaker bar. Old dry paint & locTite hold the three bolts pretty tight. Three bolts out - grab the blade with a set of pliers and pull. Notice the blade has a hardened steel bar welded on each edge. Thereby giving all four edges a hardened edge. Pop the blade back in its pocket. New LocTite on the bolts. Lightly tighten the bolts. Align the blade using the old paint line. With flashlight - look down and see how the rotating blades cut past the stationary blade. Specs say - 1/32" to 1/16". Finish tightening the three bolts
I have mine set closer to 1/16". I cut only green pines. If you will be cutting hardwoods - I suggest, closer to 1/32".
I have mine set closer to 1/16". I cut only green pines. If you will be cutting hardwoods - I suggest, closer to 1/32".
