Want to add 230V outlets to my barn

[mwood]

That's not a bad idea with the 40A breaker. I will note that the dryer is the only thing in the house that draws continuous current. There is startup for the fridge and chest freezer, but that's about it.

Also, the electric stove got replaced with an older propane model with pilot lights. No electric there! (Trying to reduce our need for electricity as we get frequent power outages.)

I'll keep in mind all the good advise here! Thanks so much.

 

[tenacrewoods]

Hello! mwood
I'm with BobReeves just pop a double 50amp breaker in
the last slot on right and wire in your outlet for welder.Have
Fun when you get one. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[BobReeves]

Hi Mark,

I see an unused 30 amp breaker in the house, might be enough. My Sears 230 amp AC welder is running off a 40 and I have not had any problem.

If you have seen my welding post you know I am no expert at this welding stuff but I know a little about electrical stuff. The largest rod you will typically use is 1/8 which runs well at around 100 amps. At this setting you will be drawing 20 - 25 amps from the 220 side. Your 30 amp breaker will handle 90% of what you will probably be doing. Assuming the boxes are the same make, I would start with the 30 and see how it goes, you can always upgrade to a 40 or 50 later.

 

[ericbx]

Am I missing something?? You have a 50amp double pole disconnect in your main panel. As I see it this only gives you 50amp service not 100amp service? Never seen this before. If I am wrong please explain /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

looks like you had your panel updated but not your service.
how old is your home?

 

[Inspector507]

It appears you have 100A cable coming into the panel, but it looks like its only giving you 50A total for the house and barn/garage.

Yes you have 220V going to the barn/garage.

 

[ericbx]

Looks like a mouse has been living in your sub panel. It’s interesting to see all the different ways people wire boxes. Like in your sub panel I see they have the ground and neutral screwed onto the same lug. In mine I used a separate grounding bar and then bonded the neutral bar with a bonding tab. Of course either way will work.

 

[BobReeves]

Want a good example of what not to do....

Here is a picture of the electric panel in my shop when we bought the property.

 

[mwood]

@Inspector507 --
I was a little unsure of this as well. Should I really upgrade that 50A "Main" in my house to a 100A? 50A for the whole home seems kinda small...

Anyway, I'm glad it all worked out so I don't have to re-run wires to the barn. A bit more than I want to tackle right now.

Also, for an idea, the house is only about 20 years old. The barn is about 10. Not sure why the original owner (i'm pretty sure he did the wiring), used so many different breakers. For instance, I have a double pole 30A breaker in the top left slot of my main panel that isn't being used. (Should actually probably turn that one off). Also, whey are all the breaker switches different colors?

Anyway, as long as it works and is safe, I'm a happy camper!

Mark

 

[mwood]

Yikes Bob! I'm glad I don't have that problem! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[Farwell]

Bob,
That photo scares me more than any horror movie I have ever seen.
I have visited many folks in my area of Michigan and have seen some very risky wiring, much of it done with lamp cord type of wire or 18 gage extension cord. The wire in your photo looks scary but at least it looks like the right gage of wire was used.
Farwell