want to build a log splitter, need advice

[LD1]

Basically all im saying is follow the curve as the bare minimum and not the calculation when using these pumps, or you'll end up short on HP, doubly so when you start figuring in real world conditions like thick oil and other loads.

Aren't the calculations and the curve showing the same thing Just in different ways:thumbsup:

 

[Scooby074]

Aren't the calculations and the curve showing the same thing Just in different ways:thumbsup:

Not really. Curve says ~14Hp. Calculations say ~11.15 hp. for 6.5gpm @2500psi

Uaing the calculation, I should have enough HP to have 6.5gpm@3000PSI= 13.38 Hp required. But I dont in practice and according to the curve.

Thats the problem.

 

[LD1]

Not really. Curve says ~14Hp. Calculations say ~11.15 hp. for 6.5gpm @2500psi

Uaing the calculation, I should have enough HP to have 6.5gpm@3000PSI= 13.38 Hp required. But I dont in practice and according to the curve.

Thats the problem.

Maybe its a metric curve, already factored in for the smaller metric horses:laughing:

Seriously though, that chart is pretty crappy. Actually if you look at it, it looks more like a 24gpm on high, and higher than 6.5 on the low. More like 7.5gpm on the low by my eyes.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I built my own 3 point splitter. I will tell you its no cheaper then just buying one. I had $500 in mine back in about 2005 or so and you could buy a new one for about that on sale at TSC or Rural King. I do like how I built mine though, its more adapted to me and my tractor.

Long story short, do all the math first but my guess is 9 times out of 10 you can buy one for less.

Chris

 

[chad fitz]

I kow ican buy a good one for around 1200 but everyone i have used or looked at has one issue or another that im not thrilled about. For that money, none have log lift which when working along is a must as far as im concerned. I adjustable vertical splitter weadge is not necessary but a real time saver. Add the cost of these to the base model price and now we are lloking at considerable more money. An iron and oak runs around 5-6K for the model im looking at. If i shop smart and take my time i figure for about 1000 + or- i can build one with everything i want.
Im gald i asked about the HP, I have access to a couple riding lawn mower motors(I know the shaft is vertical but i can work that into the design with no problem, UNLESS THERE IS ANOTHER REASON TO NOT USE VERTICAL SHAFT). One i think is 17hp the other 21hp and they both run well. stil on the mowers. I like hte electric start(both batteries are still good) and why not use the lights off the mowers as well for the days when it gets drk and i want to keep splitting.
If anyone sees an issue with using a motor from a riding lawn mower please let me know, $50 for one of these will give me a head start in saving money and adding convenience to my splitter.

 

[LD1]

I built my own 3 point splitter. I will tell you its no cheaper then just buying one. I had $500 in mine back in about 2005 or so and you could buy a new one for about that on sale at TSC or Rural King. I do like how I built mine though, its more adapted to me and my tractor.

Long story short, do all the math first but my guess is 9 times out of 10 you can buy one for less.

Chris

Agreed. If a basic splitter is all that is wanted.

When one wants a log loft and/or an adjustable height 4 or 6- way wedge, THATS when it becomes cheaper (allthough more difficult) to build. Cause a splitter with all those features easily reaches the 4-5k range vs the 1000-1500 range of just a basic no-frills splitter.

 

[Scooby074]

I kow ican buy a good one for around 1200 but everyone i have used or looked at has one issue or another that im not thrilled about. For that money, none have log lift which when working along is a must as far as im concerned. I adjustable vertical splitter weadge is not necessary but a real time saver. Add the cost of these to the base model price and now we are lloking at considerable more money. An iron and oak runs around 5-6K for the model im looking at. If i shop smart and take my time i figure for about 1000 + or- i can build one with everything i want.
Im gald i asked about the HP, I have access to a couple riding lawn mower motors(I know the shaft is vertical but i can work that into the design with no problem, UNLESS THERE IS ANOTHER REASON TO NOT USE VERTICAL SHAFT). One i think is 17hp the other 21hp and they both run well. stil on the mowers. I like hte electric start(both batteries are still good) and why not use the lights off the mowers as well for the days when it gets drk and i want to keep splitting.
If anyone sees an issue with using a motor from a riding lawn mower please let me know, $50 for one of these will give me a head start in saving money and adding convenience to my splitter.

You have to watch vertical shaft. There are some of the Barnes pumps that cant be mounted vertical. Check it out thoroughly before you pick a pump. Lawnmower engines are, however, a cheap source of high horsepower motors.

 

[Scooby074]

Agreed. If a basic splitter is all that is wanted.

When one wants a log loft and/or an adjustable height 4 or 6- way wedge, THATS when it becomes cheaper (allthough more difficult) to build. Cause a splitter with all those features easily reaches the 4-5k range vs the 1000-1500 range of just a basic no-frills splitter.

This!

And dont forget that when you build your own, you can set things like stroke length and work height. Im tall, so I set my work height at around 32" IIRC. Im not always stooped over, that is more comfortable for me.

 

[MFWD]

Hey Chad,
Don't forget to put a dashboard on your splitter like I did !!!!!!!!!!

MFWD

 

[triptester]

If you already have a battery and charging system with the engines consider using a small 12volt winch to operate the log lift. A small 12 volt winch can be had for 60-100 dollars while hydraulic operation would require a cylinder , control valve , hoses ,and fittings at several hundred dollars.