warm up

[rswyan]

Generally minimal warm up time on the B2910 here if temps are >50F ... just enough to get the fluids circulating good.

But then my dealer had reset the idle for 1200 rpm before we even picked it up. Have never changed it.

If temps are less than that, then I might give it a few minutes before moving it.

If less than 30F will probably plug in the block heater for 30 minutes to an hour, depending on how cold it actually is.

Around 2300 hours on the clock and no real issues thus far.

 

[mcfarmall]

I love reading threads like this as we discuss our facts and opinions regarding warm up, throttle position, etc, as we fret about our tier 4 emissions, blah blah. Then I watch the construction guys at work with their brand new Tier IV telehandlers and such. They hop on, fire up, take a pallet or two off a flatbed and shut it down. Next, they lift a few sheets of plywood up the the roof and shut it down. Never a warm- up or running it at WOT, barely any engine load to speak of at any time yet they have no issues. Why is this??

 

[5030]

I love reading threads like this as we discuss our facts and opinions regarding warm up, throttle position, etc, as we fret about our tier 4 emissions, blah blah. Then I watch the construction guys at work with their brand new Tier IV telehandlers and such. They hop on, fire up, take a pallet or two off a flatbed and shut it down. Next, they lift a few sheets of plywood up the the roof and shut it down. Never a warm- up or running it at WOT, barely any engine load to speak of at any time yet they have no issues. Why is this??

Probably because they don't own it and don't give a hoot about it. Not theirs to worry about or pay for repairs.

When 'paying the freight', attitudes change.

 

[daman1]

Exactly they don't own it they're in a hurry and they don't give a **** they're there for a paycheck

 

[5030]

Reminds me of the outfit I retired from. We all had nice Western Star conventionals with big cats and we all parked in the yard and every truck had it's own hotline but there was this one lazy driver who never plugged his in in the winter, jumped in, fired it and ran it right up on the governor because he 'had to go right now'. He died a couple years later... He went. never came back.

Idiot.

 

[mcfarmall]

Hmmm.....telehandlers on our worksite for 5+ years, no warmup, no issues...Cat must make some good stuff.

 

[5030]

Hmmm.....telehandlers on our worksite for 5+ years, no warmup, no issues...Cat must make some good stuff.

Show me any hourly paid equipment operator (other than an Operating Engineer) and I'll show you a 'I don't care because it's not mine' person.

If it belongs to me and I'm paying for it, I'll be very conscious as to how it's treated. Why I NEVER loan out equipment. If I'm not in the seat, no one (except my wife) is.

If I own it, the buck (good or bad) stops with me.

 

[mcfarmall]

So idle for 15-20 minutes to warm up, then at WOT for the remainder of the work time to burn out the soot from the extensive idling...got it.

 

[MossyDell]

Diesels are fairly efficient and therefore will give off very little heat while idling. Think that recommendation to warm them up is extremely conservative, sorta similar to the every other year of changing coolant out in the present age of 10 year life for this stuff.

Just start and use gently for a bit. It'll warm up A LOT faster doing this than it will sitting there idling. Just use a good motor oil and lightest weight hydraulic fluid to keep things happy when cold.

I agree. The manual for my new B2601 can freak me out over its conservatism. For instance, the manual says:

For five minutes, allow engine to run without any load. Below 32F to 14F, warm up for up to 10 minutes. @ 14F to -4F, warm for 10-15 mins. Below -4, warm for over 15 mins.​

In time, I realized this doesn't necessarily mean just sit there. Like most of us, I imagine, it takes me at least five minutes after starting to get going and arrive at where I'm working.

But I picture the manual author as a hand-wringing nervous nellie. For example, during the first 50 hours of break-in, the manual says:

Don’t operate at full speed [big emphasis]*​

​

Don’t operate faster than necessary*​

​

“Applies to all tractors but especially important for new tractor.”​

I have not operated at full throttle but doubt that it would do harm. And I think full throttle is very close to the tractor's rated operating speed of 2,800 rpms, which is where I am supposed to be for 540 rpm rear pto usage.

 

[5030]

Rated PTO speed will be at peak torque rise, not peak RPM.

 

[MossyDell]

Right, 5030. But I think max rpm feels like it's close. Wish someone with a B2601 would tell me what wide open is. It runs well at the rated rpm of 2,800 but not sure they've allowed much after that.

 

[5030]

I don't know, mine are much larger. My pto rpm is about 500 below wide open (governed).

 

[TMGT]

Right, 5030. But I think max rpm feels like it's close. Wish someone with a B2601 would tell me what wide open is. It runs well at the rated rpm of 2,800 but not sure they've allowed much after that.

Its only slightly more then 2800, maybe 2900-3000 and that can vary due to how the linkage is set up.
The pto rated rpm is just past peak tq on the downward slope of the curve, that way as the load increases and tries to lower the rpm the torque will be rising to help resist the load.

 

[MHarryE]

Right, 5030. But I think max rpm feels like it's close. Wish someone with a B2601 would tell me what wide open is. It runs well at the rated rpm of 2,800 but not sure they've allowed much after that.

With a mechanical governor, wide open throttle is usually 5% to 7% over rated rpm. This is the droop needed for a manual governor to work. So you will have a power curve that is zero hp at wide open no load. Start loading and power will increase quickly to rated hp. My M7 for instance is rated at 2200, power increases to max at 2100, decreases slightly to 2000 PTO speed where it is also most efficient (per Nebraska test). My L6060 on the other hand has max power at 2600 rated and drops off after that (per Kubota’s engine power curve).

 

[Larry Caldwell]

The thing they rarely mention in the manual is never lug a diesel. I learned that driving truck. Lug a diesel and you will blow the injectors out of it and bend rods.

A warm-up and cool-down are always good ideas, but I combine them with travel time to and from the field in a lower gear before I actually start to work the engine. If the engine is starting to overheat, I will run at high idle before I shut down to clean the radiator, but have to admit that if it's still running in normal operating range I may only idle a couple minutes before shutdown.