Water line question

   / Water line question #111  
My drilled well that replaced the dug well was $3500 in 1994.
97 feet of casing and 160 ft deep well.
 
   / Water line question #112  
City water line was across a State Highway for me too. In 2005, it cost me $3,500 to have a bore drilled under the highway and then a metal pipe pulled through that hole, and then they installed the gasketed water lines through the hole and tapped into the main water line. They also installed a valve inside my property line. From that valve, I installed the gasketed pipe to my home, and the Water Department came back and inspected what I did, and they installed the meter. By installing the meter next to my house, they became responsible for the line leading up to the meter. I forget why this was something they wanted, but I didn't see any negatives to it. About 5 years later, I had a leak in the water line and they came out and fixed it.

Couple years ago I had a Natural Gas line installed from across the highway to the house. Cost of the bore hole, pipe, sleeve and their labor was $3,800

I've never heard of a well that was drilled for less then $4,000
I wish i would have looked into meter placement. It never occurred to me to ask.

It was more $ for me to dig a well than to hook up to county water and bury a 2 in, 2600 ft pipe. I've had a few wells and a few problems...... i prefer county water

I've got 115 psi at the road and after falling about 30 ft, i bet i got 130-150 psi at the house sit. yea, i've got pressure reducers installed.
 
   / Water line question #113  
I would avoid PVC. To many fittings and junctions can cause leaks.
Have you though about black poly? I have 400ft of 1in (80 or 100psi) sitting on the surface from a spring for 2 yrs now. The 160psi stuff is quite a bit thicker. I wouldnt bother with sleeving the 160psi black/blue poly. I do believe that it's also cheaper and thicker than pex but I could be wrong.

This. ^ Black Poly. I just finished 200+ feet with 1” and 2 crimp rings at each connection. Laid in a sand bed about 6” deep under and over.
Last one I did is going on 30 years old and daily use and never one problem.

You’ll want to lay it out in the sun and unroll it though.
It’s like fighting an anaconda when cold and stiff!
 
   / Water line question #114  
Schedule 40 You "might " think about a few other things. Black Poly has a way of being eaten by gophers or moles. Ask me how I know. Run a wire alongside you new buried pipe so SOMEDAY you or your successor will know where exactly the pipe is. Draw a map with full description and put it in a file cabinet where you keep or should be keeping stuff like this. When it comes to uprights that you might want to add, use street elbows so that If it ever gets backed into or hit, it won't break the line itself.
 
   / Water line question #115  
I agree with the suggestions of larger diameter piping. I have irrigation covering 8 acres of palm trees. I ran 2” pipe for mains and first branch. What was originally run from well pump to house, stable and guest house was 1 1/4”. Flow test was quite different between. Both tested with 5hp pump. The longer the lengths the better results. Admitting I’m not the norm, but much greater performance.
I haven’t worked with pecan outside so can’t advise on that. PVC 40 is what I used and have not had any failures in almost 20 years.
We use 80 for irrigation uprights as they are exposed to working areas. Might be overkill for underground. Don’t know if I would trust slip / compression fittings. Correct glue procedure welds fittings. Again, I’ve never had a failure. Different people, different opinions. But you will not regret going with a larger size.
 
   / Water line question #117  
If you use PEX make sure its type "B"
Personally I would go with the PVC been in
the ground for 36 years and no leaks yet!
There are a lot of pro's and con's on PEX!
You can hear all kinds of stories about PEX!
Some good and some bad. All it takes is
for someone using pex has a leak and its
trash, sound fimilar???

willy
 
   / Water line question #118  
If you use black poly, do not have any connections along the way. One continuous length. Otherwise it can fail. I have a line that was put down about 20 odd years ago that I had leak about halfway of a 1300 ft length. Stainless steel clamp had rusted through. The SS clamps are Ss, but most of the screws in them arent.... And once it had let go, the line pushed apart. New home for my daughter this year, Pex throughout and for the main line. I had pvc for my home in MS. 25 years and no issues on the main line, but **** in the house. Never again.
 
   / Water line question #119  
If you use black poly, do not have any connections along the way. One continuous length. Otherwise it can fail. I have a line that was put down about 20 odd years ago that I had leak about halfway of a 1300 ft length. Stainless steel clamp had rusted through. The SS clamps are Ss, but most of the screws in them arent.... And once it had let go, the line pushed apart. New home for my daughter this year, Pex throughout and for the main line. I had pvc for my home in MS. 25 years and no issues on the main line, but **** in the house. Never again.
The same SS pinch clamps are now very common on the poly installations these days, faster, better and cheaper is the motto.
 
   / Water line question #120  
Thats why i went with the compression brass fittings instead of the insert with 4 SS clamps. I did not want to cheap out on a fitting 5 feet underground.
 
 
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