Water line question

[ljjhouser]

Ya, those were like the fittings i used, but mine were 2” fittings.

I'll bet they cost more than what I paid then. They are great fittings. After using them, would you ever use anything else for a long water line?

 

[grsthegreat]

I'll bet they cost more than what I paid then. They are great fittings.

All i remember they were more than $100 back in 1996.... don’t remember exactly how much. I actually think there cheaper now, cause back then we had 1 supply house. Now there are half a dozen.

 

[ljjhouser]

All i remember they were more than $100 back in 1996.... don’t remember exactly how much

That sounds about right. When I went to the contract supplier, he told me they were $73, but since he did a lot of business with me and knew me, he said - Pay $37, that is want I charge contractors. And that was not 2", only 1 1/4"

 

[PILOON]

I'll ad tricks I've incorporated from my pump experiences.

Always use brass barb fittings. (plastics deteriate, brass does not)
Always lightly heat the barbs B4 inserting.
Always use 2 hose clamps.

I discovered a few times that clamps simply rusted away. (clamp 'screws' tend to be steel and not stainless as is the clamp 'strap')
Light heating assures the barbs really get a good grip.

 

[Menagerie-Manor]

I'll ad tricks I've incorporated from my pump experiences.

Always use brass barb fittings. (plastics deteriate, brass does not)
Always lightly heat the barbs B4 inserting.
Always use 2 hose clamps.

I discovered a few times that clamps simply rusted away. (clamp 'screws' tend to be steel and not stainless as is the clamp 'strap')
Light heating assures the barbs really get a good grip.

The latest and greatest with the clamps are the Stainless crimp clamps like the pex application. They are fast. easy and a lot less expensive.

 

[3Ts]

Y'all have spent a lot of ink talking about the material the pipe is made of and the size that should be used. There are a couple comments about pressure as related to elevation and some about friction loss over long distances.

Something else to think about: there is only one comment about stale water (which really is an issue to be considered for health reasons) and none about the velocity of the water flowing in the pipe. (i.e. turbulent or laminar flow) The turbulent flow is capable of breaking apart pipe and fittings and is reduced by going to a larger pipe. I'm wondering if this has contributed to the damaged pipes requiring repairs? The stale water is a result of to large a pipe resulting in minimal movement of the water (essentially putting the water in storage without the sanitization procedures) with all the implications that entails. There is a possibility of to small a pipe and to large a pipe, you really do need to get an idea as to the flow rate you'll need to be sure the pipe is big enough, but not to big. After you get the GPM & pipe size you can figure the velocity.

 

[herm0016]

I originally ran my water line 700' in 3/4 pvc. 40 years ago. It did pull apart in only 1 joint. 5 years ago, I replaced it with 1 1/4 " Poly - Very thick walls and very stiff tubing. Came in 500' rolls. The fittings were offered in bronze and plastic. I choose bronze. This pictured is a union. I used one union and 2 end fittings on ends of pipe.

They are tough and very solid and watertight. I bought 3 fittings, I think they were about$45 each. Not too cheap, but good. Maybe I should also mention this in the Ozarks - Any hole deeper than 1 1/2 foot has been dug with dynamite. I bought this pipe at the plumbing supply. This is what the city uses for water lines. Best wishes, Larry




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this is what my utility uses as well, and what we replaced copper with. the fittings are expensive, but beefy. ours is 1 in i think, and has a stainless insert in the pipe at each fitting.

 

[PILOON]

this is what my utility uses as well, and what we replaced copper with. the fittings are expensive, but beefy. ours is 1 in i think, and has a stainless insert in the pipe at each fitting.

From your pics that sure looks like PolyB that I've used a lot of.
Our city also OK's its use.
For fittings I used brass barbed ones and double clamps and lightly heat the barb insert B4 clamping.
My thought was heated inserts would make it easier for the Poly to mold itself onto the barbs.
And it sure does as I once had to remove an insert and finally had to cut it loose.

(Lately I found that stainless fittings were actually less costly than brass.)

 

[herm0016]

its pex with a higher pressure rating than what you can buy at the big box.

 

[rickyb01]

I ran 11/4 pvc from meter to house which was about 270’ I then continued the run to shop with 1” pvc. I had purchased two can of blue cement and 2 cans of purple primer. I took the blue back and got the green. Always thought blue was the best. Thanks guys for your help.