Water line question

   / Water line question
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Thanks guys for the comments. The black poly is not in stock anywhere in my area. The only thing I can get is Pex and PVC. I’m thinking I may run 200’ of 11/2 and then go down to 1”. My shop will not have anything but a sink and toilet and shower that will probably never get used. The shop will about 60 yds past the house and is being built first. I need the water there to put a sprinkler on slab while it’s curing. Then when shop is built moving my stuff into shop and waiting for prices to come down. I have a cabin about a mile from there that I will live in just need the shop for storage
 
   / Water line question #22  
Can you buy,beg,borrow or steal a couple 250 gallon totes and an inexpensive pump to sprinkle the slab? That will get you over the hump until prices drop and/or you locate a good deal on pipe. You could also borrow enough garden hose to temporarly get water to slab.
 
   / Water line question #23  
You can probably buy 2” o-ring pipe for the same price as 1.5 pvc. I bought it for $13 per 20’ stick not to long ago and I don’t think it’s went up since then.
 
   / Water line question #24  
You can probably buy 2” o-ring pipe for the same price as 1.5 pvc. I bought it for $13 per 20’ stick not to long ago and I don’t think it’s went up since then.
What is this O-ring pipe you speak of? Never heard of such.
 
   / Water line question #25  
I have to run a water line to a home I'm building and would like to get some of your opinions on what you guys would do. Now remember its hard to find most materials. I'm needing to get the water line in so they can pour the concrete pad for shop. The shop pad is about 350 feet from the meter and I'm running 1" line. My two options are 1" pex and schedule 40. This is somewhat rocky ground with a lot of clay, sand and small stone in the mix. I'm reading that it wouldn't be a bad idea if I go with Pex to sleeve it which is going to raise the cost.

Pex line 1" x 400' is going run around 400.00 and I will roughly have two fitting in the total run. If I sleeve the pex with 4'x100' black corrugated sewer and drain pipe its going add another 240.00 for a total of 640.00. The pex isn't a full one inch inside diameter and more like .830. I can get a 300' roll and 100' roll so really one connection to get to shop.

Schedule 40 will be in 20' sticks at around 300.00 and I wouldn't think I would need to sleeve this. With the schedule 40 I will have about 20 glue joints and of course would use the blue glue in a quart. The PVC is a full one inch ID which means more water up to home and shop.

I am somewhat familiar with both setups. Meaning I have experience gluing PVC and I also have a pex tool and have ran pex before. My pocket book is telling me to go with PVC. Probably no clear cut answers but what would you guys do in this situation?
Do not let cost savings keep you from using the higher quality. Materials are the cheapest part of total cost. Downtime and labor are expensive; if you are like me, equipment finds the worst possible time to break/fail.

See the link below.

There are two common types of PVC pipe – schedule 40 PVC and schedule 80 PVC. Schedule 40 PVC is usually white in color and schedule 80 is usually a dark gray (they can also be found in other colors). Their most important difference, though, is in their design. Schedule 80 pipe is designed with a thicker wall. This means the pipe is thicker and stronger, and as a result it can handle higher pressures.
 
   / Water line question #26  
Idk where the OP is but living in the rust (snow belt) I have never seen PVC used for underground.

You may want to contact the town/county building inspector for what size and type of pipe your will be required to use to supply your house. It would be a shame to burry one pipe..then a few years later find that it needs to be removed and replaced with something different.

Also I would let the fact that "it's not in stock" keep me from useing a product. Many times the superior product isnt stocked for what ever reason.
 
   / Water line question #27  
I put in 2600 ft of bell shaped 2 in pvc. i've got 100 psi at the road and lots more at the house site 40 ft below the road.

i learned a tuff lesson.

after glueing the pipe and setting it in the trench i went on to other projects, i did not bury the pipe

it rained, filled the trench and there was 2600 ft of new white 2 inch pipe floating on top of the trench.

around here the earth is made of orange clay, the trench would have never drained because of the constant rain so

i buried the pipe, 2600 ft, on my hands and knees

lesson learned, as usual, the hard way.
 
   / Water line question #28  
Bury 4" Big-O or equivalent between the house and well, then snake your water and electrical lines inside after. If and when you replace your well line it will be easy to do and you won't be cutting concrete or digging up your yard. Make sure to leave a line of rope in the Big-O for future snaking.

I've noticed that well lines tend to fail mid January when you have 4 feet of frost to dig through. At least here in Canada...

BTW I would't use anything but 1 piece rated well line between the well and into the house.
 
   / Water line question #29  
My heavy wall poly pipe from the well to the house and shop has been in for 26 years with no issues, it is buried well below frost line,
my ditch was over 6 ft deep then a 6" sand bed then poly and another 6" sand bed, then backfilled trying to avoid big rocks for the first couple of feet.
Some of the poly lines at the farm are pushing 50 I believe, can't recall when we first started using it.
Also why have a joint which is always a potential problem every 20 ft when the poly can be order in almost any desired length with no joints.
 
   / Water line question
  • Thread Starter
#30  
My connection will be to a rural water supply that is supported by a city water supply so no well here.

the Oring 2” pipe is used by a lot of water companies that supply water to areas. This is what makes up the water line that I’m hooking up to. I have personally never used it but to my understanding it has no glue joints.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2015 FORD F-250XL SUPER DUTY SERVICE TRUCK (A51406)
2015 FORD F-250XL...
Tennant S30 Ride-On Sweeper (A49346)
Tennant S30...
One pallet of miscellaneous items (A50860)
One pallet of...
2011 Hyundai Tucson SUV (A48082)
2011 Hyundai...
2012 PETERBILT 388 SLEEPER TRUCK (A51222)
2012 PETERBILT 388...
More info coming soon! (A49346)
More info coming...
 
Top