Weight on a yanmar 4ft tiller

[sacsr]

I am looking at a yanmar 4ft tiller that is 500 miles from my home....I will be down there on business so the mileage is not a big thing (I work 50 miles from where it is)....but I don't want to haul my trailer that far.....any chance we could put this monster in the rear of my expedition???

I am guessing it is pretty heavy but could not find a weight on the internet.

Maybe put a piece of plywood down and then put the tiller on top??

thanks,

Scott

 

[Mickey_Fx]

A lot will depend upon which model you're talking about as they come in many variations. As a general WAG I'd plan on 500#. Do you know if it comes with rear gauge wheels? If it does, is there room for those?

Speaking of variations, one member here has a Yanmar tiller with hyd shuttle that can be offset either to the right or left and any place in between. Others are equipped with controls to work with the UFO controls on some models.

 

[sacsr]

Sounds like I better ask what I am looking for???

What types are there? I know to look at the tines what else?

I have a 187D ...will they all fit it?? Guessing I need to make sure the pto shaft is there since it is probably pretty short??

Thanks,

Scott

 

[careyo63]

Sacsr. Not sure of Exact Weight but Here is a yanmar RS1400 No Rear Gauge Wheels on a 7' Bed. I'm just about to get it out It's just over 5' I had them load it in my pickup a F250 SD with chains and a fork lift. It took up a good bit of the Long Bed come to think about it Had to go over and use the JD"s FEL to get it off and put it on the trailer. to give you a good idea of the weight. I believe a trailer may be the best for you IMHO.

Carey

 

[Survey1]

don't forget to get the top-link bracket! Even with Carey's warning about it, I fell into the trap. Soon to be out of it hopefully

 

[careyo63]

Your be amazed how well they work Your right on time to get it all put together. The pick of mine is the secound pass with it. The first was made about this time of the year and the one showing the End of March ready to plant Taters

Carey

 

[blackd]

sacr asks: "any chance we could put this monster in the rear of my expedition???" I think not! If you can get it in without tearing up the X, I'm not sure you can get it out when home.

 

[winston1]

King Kutter gives the weight of their 4' tiller at 600#, I doubt the Yanmar 4 footer would be quite that heavy but still getting it in and out of an SUV seems difficult.

 

[turnerbend]

Take your trailer.

 

[sacsr]

Thanks guys.....will take my small trailer....not as bad to pull and want use as much gas pulling it....

Anything to look for?? Guys says fair to good shape....doesI h work....

Any idea of a value??

If I have to replace the tines how much should I figure for that?

Thanks

 

[careyo63]

These prices seem to be correct . Yanmar Used Japanese tillers and other Models also.
Yanmar Tractors -- Parts -- Sales -- Service > Equipment > Implements > Implement Pricing

Carey

 

[Roonabeck]

I'd be surprised if the RS1201 (48" wide) that came with my 1510 was much more than 300lbs. It would be a bit awkward to get in the back of an SUV though.

 

[KFree]

I will be down there on business so the mileage is not a big thing (I work 50 miles from where it is)....but I don't want to haul my trailer that far.

Maybe the *business* will rent you a truck for the trip? Personally, I wouldn't want to deal with a small trailer for that long of a trip either.

Keith

 

[California]

These tillers aren't real heavy. This RS1400 is noticeably lighter than my back blade, which is supposed to weigh 450 lbs.

But the shape is awkward. It would take very careful work with a beam pole and guy ropes to set and remove it from a SUV without tearing up the car. And the loaded weight would be deadly in a crash.

 

[sacsr]

These used yanmar tillers that are sold by the dealers refurbished as well??

Also not sure if I understand what link I need to make sure I get? What if this one does not have it??

Thanks Guys.... California's comment about it being deadly in the vehicle was the final straw....I chain down all my equipment to my trailer for this reason....so trailer it will be.

 

[careyo63]

New tines and everything working Properly from the site I posted. And the top link is almost a must.

Carey

 

[Mickey_Fx]

The mount & link Cary has posted give general shape but these mounts and upper links have changed somewhat over the yrs and can vary with tractor and tiller. My mount has a tag on it saying which tractor it worked with PTO shafts are quite short if using this mount. Yanmar had their tillers mounted VERY close to rear tires when tiller was in the down position thus requiring the special mount and upper link that caused the tiller to pivot as it was raised so it would miss the rear tires.

Here's a pic of mine. If you look closely you can see the mount and upper link. I no longer use these as I went with a quick mount hitch.

Hitch setup can vary with tiller model. Some early ones had 2pt hitch and later 3pt hitches. And Yanmar had for a while a quick mount hitch and the one I saw was unique to the tiller. Best I can say is, make sure tractor, mount and tiller are all compatible with each other. Don't want to get back home and find something not working.

Wish there were a knowledgeable dealer jumping in here that could offer better advise.

 

[California]

These used yanmar tillers that are sold by the dealers refurbished as well??

Also not sure if I understand what link I need to make sure I get? What if this one does not have it??

I don't think they need refurbishing. just verify there is a full set of tines. It probably needs a change of the gear oil (90 wt) and repack of the lower bearing on the offside (wheel bearing or lube grease) to prepare it for service.

Here are some photos I've accumulated:

I bought the cheapest tiller among 20 or so and got a better price because it needed a new $5 input shaft seal, but the leak there is only a stain, not a drip, so I haven't replaced it. Here's a picture the first time I attached it. I found the driveshaft too short, apparently shortened to allow a slip-clutch or ratcheting over-run clutch. I went back and the dealer gave me a shaft extender (not shown here). My point in posting this is to show the special top link in use. This is the same device as shown in Carey's photo a couple of posts above this one. Note how close the tiller is to the tires; the special top link is essential. And here is a photo I copied from someone's post here (Carey??) again showing the two-part top link you need. I wish my equipment were as clean as that!

In summary - be sure to get the correct special top link for your tractor, and the special short driveshaft. Either is very expensive to obtain separately and you can't use the tiller without them.

More pictures I found, just for fun: first time I tried the tiller. I tilled @ 540 rpm for a few feet, then put the pto in Hi gear, 1000 rpm, for a few more feet. I decided Hi should only be used for a final pass, it hammers too much on a first pass like this.

Finally, the same tiller (RS1400) now attached to my YM186D. The little tractor will barely pull it, I don't recommend this combination to get any real work done. RS1400 specifically declares on its label that it is intended for YM2000. (which is the same as my US-version YM240).

Hope I'm not boring everyone with all this longwindedness. I'm stuck in town and bored to death - which is probably obvious.

 

[normde2001]

Should work. Should be about 400 #, a 4 wheel dolly, or 2, and set of ramps or equivalent. I hauled a Simplicity 4' riding mower, (about 400 #), in the back of my '99 Pontiac Montana for 800 miles, didn't even know it was there. Winch it up the ramps with a come-along hooked to a front seat if necessary.

 

[Survey1]

The top-link I had to get separately was $35. So its not necessarily a deal breaker IMO. You might call Fredricks or Spalding ahead of time to make sure they have one if you need one. I just got mine yesterday and I can't wait to check the fit this weekend. It looks just like Careys pic of it. If you need a driveshaft...I'm not sure what that would cost.