weights????

[elbmas]

I am looking for the most realistic and safest way to balance my NH TC29D. Too many options out there and very confusing. Ballast box, weight bar, wheel weights...... They all seem to make sense to me, so I am looking for others opinions. Thanks.

/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gifElb

 

[RoyJackson]

Assuming you've filled your rear tires, I'd go with the ballast box. That's easy to put on and off, and (when empty), you can always use it to carry tools.

 

[Henro]

I know a lot use a ballast box along with loaded tires...but if you have to spend money you might just as well buy a box blade, even a cheap one, and use it as rear ballast when you need it.

Now there is one problem with doing that, it is wider than a ballast box and that could be an issue in tight quarters. Never been an issue in my case though...

I'm pretty sure even a cheap box blade weighs over 300 lbs, for a 5 footer.

 

[PineRidge]

When we made our purchase we opted for wheel weights and a 3-point weight bracket. But have to agree with Henro since now we find it much easier just to use the our box-blade for counterbalance when working with the FEL or pallet forks..

 

[KiotiJohn]

Elb, I don't have filled tires, always keep my loader on, and generally get by fine with a boxblade on the rear. If I need more on the front, I put concrete blocks in the bucket. If I need more on the back, I put the backhoe on. Barring the backhoe, I have occasionally tied on some concrete blocks to the boxblade, but don't usually need to. John

 

[jimgerken]

My solution was to buy the smallest boxblade that just covered the rear wheel tracks, then add 300 pounds of scrap steel bolted to the back wall of the boxblade. It is just enough that if there is no front implement on the tractor will wheelie if prompted to do so.

 

[Ledgemere Farm]

I have four wheel weights ( two per side) and a ballast box, which I despise. I have debated loading my tires, but it's over $200 plus transport. I'd rather put $200 toward a box blade. I was thinking of getting a JD iMATCH and boxblade. I have a JD weight box & I was hoping it would be iMATCH compatible.

 

[theboman]

A lot depends on how you're trying to balance the tractor.
Heavy implements on the back of tractor?
Using the FEL?
etc.
etc.

In most cases loading the tires is the #1 thing to do.

 

[JackIL]

GR,

JD Ballast Boxes which are IMatch compatible have a decal saying "IMatch." They were introduced a few years ago when IMatch was introduced. Appearance is similar to the older boxes, but there are slight changes in the geometry of the upper portion of the mast required for IMatch.

JackIL

 

[Ledgemere Farm]

but there are slight changes in the geometry of the upper portion of the mast required for IMatch. .

That being the case, then my next best bet would be something along the lines of PAT'S EASY CHANGE...
Deluxe 3PH links would be a help.

 

[sneaky_pete]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I know a lot use a ballast box along with loaded tires...but if you have to spend money you might just as well buy a box blade, even a cheap one, and use it as rear ballast when you need it.)</font>

This was my conclusion also, and in fact is my current practice. Have not been disappointed to date - the box blade, besides being very heavy, is useful in it's own right and much smaller than the bush hog. I bought mine used to further reduce the cost.

Pete

 

[Leemac]

Purchased weights from NH dealer. Was thinking about making some weights but checked with Dealer and they had 50 lb suitcase weights for $35.00 each ( 808 weight 50 lb 1000series-on my invoice) so I went that route. needed 2 for 100 lbs which is max on 1320 FWD-HST. I haven't had any problems mowing around pond and some slopes but thought this would make tractor a little more stable and avoid any problems.

 

[Bob_K]

After some loader work I noticed I needed some weight in the rear. So I made my self a Ballast Box for my TC24DA. What I came up with was a box 26" long by 12" wide and 12: high. I used 4 cast blocks of steel 150#s each for a sub total of 600#s. Then a made some stainless steel sides to rap around the blocks. A few pieces of angle iron and some 3/4 round stock to attach to the lower 3 point hitch arms. 2 more angle iron pieces with some 7/8 th hole to attach the upper saport.
Well after all was done I ened up with a Ballast Box that weights close to 700#s.
Oh forgot to say I made it that I can remove 3 of the 150# block. Drilled and tapped the blocks for removel This way I can remove or add weight as needed