Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!

[EddieWalker]

It rained 2 inches last night and this morning, so it's too muddy for doing allot of things.

I don't know what the head weighs, but I'm guessing it's gonna be heavy and not something I want to be picking up and carrying off the dozer by hand.

The front loader on my backhoe is plenty strong to pick it up, but the bucket is too wide to get over it without having to take off the cage. The hooks are also on the top of the bucket and when I lift it up high enough to get the head, I'm blinded by the bucket.

My solution was to mount the top part of my cherry picker to the side of my bucket. Three grade five bolts should be plenty strong to hole it in place and it even has a handy hook at the end for lifting off the head.

Eddie

 

[Richard]

Regarding the oil/grease buildup on radiator... When my JCB was down, I used what I think was called "The purple stuff" or perhaps Purple Cleaner.

Kind of irritated your hands a bit when it got on bare skin but evidently it's a pretty strong grease cutter. I sprayed it on and hosed it off (with no scrubbing by me at all, simply soaking) and I think it did a great job.

Probably other degreasers out there just as good or better, that was my one experience.

Good luck with your project.

 

[JerryG]

Eddie,
The best thing to clean non-aluminum radiators is oven cleaner. Spray it on and wait about 5 minutes, then wash it off. I always us the cheap stuff for a buck at the Dollar Store. It works just as good as the expensive stuff. BTW, on the deal about pulling the piston out the bottom. Some engines you can take the rod cap off, put rubber tubes over the rod bolts and then rotate the crank throw out of the way. Then you can take the piston out. I don't know if you can on that engine or not.

 

[HGM]

Eddie,
I've been trying not to recomend letting Steph do it... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gifBut I just couldnt resist, it seems she can do everything else......

Anyhow, as for de-torquing, a good rule of thumb would be to start on the outer edges and work evenly toward center.. Some recomend, cracking each bolt loose then returning to take them the remainder of the way out.. Either way, you should be safe with a cast iron head.. Make sure you get the correct Tq setting and find out if you may need to replace the head bolts.. Some are Tq to yield(but thats usually on auto stuff)..

Really, it looks like you have it licked.. just gota get it done... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[EddieWalker]

I'm trying to find out the torque and tightening sequence to put the head back on. Also the connecting rods.

Anybody know of a webiste that lists this?

I've also never replaced or seen a cylinder sleever pulled or replaced. Is there a website that has this infromation?

Thank you,
Eddie

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I've also never replaced or seen a cylinder sleever pulled or replaced )</font>

Me, neither, but my brothers have told me you do it just like ScottAR said; freeze the sleeve and have the block warm and it goes in easy (or so I've heard). /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I doubt that I'll ever have to do the job you're doing, but I'm enjoying reading about it and seeing the pictures.

 

[EddieWalker]

Thanks Bird,

I've found a really good website called www.tpub.com that gives step by step directions on how to pull each part of the engine apart and put, check it out, and put it back together.

It has all the torque specifications and sequenses.

Did you know theres three steps to torquing down the head and two sequenses?

I've also read about how to pull the cylinder sleep and that I need a Universal Sleeve Puller to do this. The tool costs $650 to $700 plus shipping. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

I've added to my list of things to do is find a place I can rent one!!!!

They also mention that I need to heat the pistons to 130 degrees and the pins need to be 65 degrees to fit together!!

Eddie

 

[tlbuser]

That looks like a pretty clever solution /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Don't you guys have a decent radiator shop nearby ? Just get the whole thing dipped and cleaned (inside and out) . Should be reasonably inexpensive also.

On another positive note, the inside of the block looks nice and clean.

 

[Highbeam]

When you clean that radiator out be prepared for a huge increase in air movement. My fan roared and blew all kinds of dust when before a radiator cleaning it just spun. Of course mine needed cleaning pretty badly.

Worst nightmare is right. Everything about a dozer is great except when it breaks.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Eddie, you probably already have found this site, but in case you haven't, there are really literate people there regarding dozers, crawlers, etc. The big International crawlers all had wet sleeves. I'm sure you can find someone there that's "Been there, done that, and got the T-Shirt" as well for your dozer. Good luck. PS on the head. I was a 19 year old diesel mech when I had to pull the head on a 6-71 GM (earthmover engine). Head weighs in the neiborhood of 250 lbs. or more. We pulled the head, dropped the pan (about 28 bolts on the 2 part pan) Popped the rod cap replaced the injector (it was what put the hole in the top of the piston) new piston/sleeve and back to work in a day. Had never done it before and haven't since (thankfully), but you WILL need a crane of sorts to lift the head. Good luck! BobG in VA

http://www.ytmag.com/crawlers/wwwboard1.html