Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!
- Thread starter EddieWalker
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Bird
Rest in Peace
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( a good idea to fill the oil filter with diesel fuel when changing the oil )</font>
Did you really mean "diesel fuel" instead of oil? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I've heard of filling it with oil, but never heard of using diesel.
Did you really mean "diesel fuel" instead of oil? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I've heard of filling it with oil, but never heard of using diesel.
CurlyDave
Elite Member
I've heard that it's a good idea to fill the oil filter with diesel fuel when changing the oil. Is this true??
Eddie:
Fill it with oil, not diesel. Diesel will dilute your oil, and change its weight rating in a bad way.
I have always used lots of engine assembly grease when doing a rebuild. I think this prevents excessive wear on initial start up.
Eddie:
Fill it with oil, not diesel. Diesel will dilute your oil, and change its weight rating in a bad way.
I have always used lots of engine assembly grease when doing a rebuild. I think this prevents excessive wear on initial start up.
I don't know how your oil pump is driven, but if you can drive it with a 1/2" drill before cranking the engine over the first time, you should. Been doing that will all my rebuilds for years, it's a happy feeling to see 30psi oil oozing out everywhere and knowing there won't be any dry spots!
jb
jb
ScottAR
Veteran Member
Fuel in the oil filter is probably trying to flush any remaining crud out of the engine... Sounds like a good way to clog up the oil pump pickup to me.
If it's got a spin on fuel filter, it's easier to prime the engine by filling the filter with cheap ATF. It will smoke like a train for a minute or two.
Wix.com lists all the filters for your machine and can interchange other brand part#s too.
Gates.com probably lists the belts and hoses too.
If I was at work, I'd just flip open the catalogs. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
If it's got a spin on fuel filter, it's easier to prime the engine by filling the filter with cheap ATF. It will smoke like a train for a minute or two.
Wix.com lists all the filters for your machine and can interchange other brand part#s too.
Gates.com probably lists the belts and hoses too.
If I was at work, I'd just flip open the catalogs. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
midlf
Platinum Member
Eddie - I second CurlyDave on using assembly lube. When you start an engine there is a film of oil on everything. However with a newly assembled engine this oil is not present, thus the use of assembly lube. Your NAPA will have it. It is a light grease the oil can easily push out and is compatible with engine oil. Regular grease does not have those two properties.
I must have missread that one.... Dont use fuel, there are a couple of instances where you may want to add diesel fuel to your oil, but definitly not this one... You need oil up there... I also agree with the idea that, if you can drive the pump first you should.. Another way to do this is to dissable the fuel supply for the first several rotations of the crank, this way it wont start dry.. It allows oil pressure to build and circulate a but before startup..
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Thanks for the help. I have Lubriplate Assembly Greese for the bearings and I'll use plenty!! The Diesel fuil in the oil filter is something my Dad came up with when changing engine oil. He said it's good for flushing out the system, but I'll just smile the next time he suggests something like that. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Before I brought the head down I decided to remove the exhaust manifold. They less they have to do the less I have to pay. Half the bolts were rotted half way through, but still holding. I broke off the heads on some, and others I had to grind off. I got three out of 12 out by just turning them. I was able to get a few of the busted ones out, but still need three of them drilled and taped by the machine shop.
Eddie
Before I brought the head down I decided to remove the exhaust manifold. They less they have to do the less I have to pay. Half the bolts were rotted half way through, but still holding. I broke off the heads on some, and others I had to grind off. I got three out of 12 out by just turning them. I was able to get a few of the busted ones out, but still need three of them drilled and taped by the machine shop.
Eddie
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Getting the sleeves out has turned into a nightmare on it's own. I've never done this and realy don't even know what the sleeves look like. I saw a few pictures online, but that didn't really help me.
What I do know is that if you beat on them hard enough from the bottom, they will slide out.
This isn't an option for me. I'm not taking the block out and there's no way to get to cylinders 5 and 6 from the bottom.
Snapon has a tool for this but they want $800 for it. They did show a picture and that gave me an idea of how to make a tool to do this.
It's kind of like a wheel puller, but a little different.
This is the piece that goes at the bottom of the sleeve. It has a very small lip to catch the sleeve and some brackets to hold it centered inside the sleeve. I also used a long bolt to hold the threaded rod that will pull on it.
Eddie
What I do know is that if you beat on them hard enough from the bottom, they will slide out.
This isn't an option for me. I'm not taking the block out and there's no way to get to cylinders 5 and 6 from the bottom.
Snapon has a tool for this but they want $800 for it. They did show a picture and that gave me an idea of how to make a tool to do this.
It's kind of like a wheel puller, but a little different.
This is the piece that goes at the bottom of the sleeve. It has a very small lip to catch the sleeve and some brackets to hold it centered inside the sleeve. I also used a long bolt to hold the threaded rod that will pull on it.
Eddie
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Since I've never done this, I had no idea how far I had to pull the sleeve to get it out. The sleeve is around 10 inches long, so I figured I needed the puller to be about a foot off the deck.
My first attemp didn't work. The rod just started bending on me. I added the angle iron to stiffen it up.
Then I used my impact wrench on a bolt on the threaded rod.
The plywood is to protect the deck, spread the load and hold the feet in place. I added nuts to the ends to stop the rod from sinking into the plywood so much.
Eddie
My first attemp didn't work. The rod just started bending on me. I added the angle iron to stiffen it up.
Then I used my impact wrench on a bolt on the threaded rod.
The plywood is to protect the deck, spread the load and hold the feet in place. I added nuts to the ends to stop the rod from sinking into the plywood so much.
Eddie
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Well, my contraption works!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
And the mystery of what a wet sleeve looks like is now solved. I aslo now understand what they mean by the term "wet" sleeve. It's because the sleeve is surrounded by water in the block!!!
Don't laugh, I'm coming at this totally blind. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Eddie
And the mystery of what a wet sleeve looks like is now solved. I aslo now understand what they mean by the term "wet" sleeve. It's because the sleeve is surrounded by water in the block!!!
Don't laugh, I'm coming at this totally blind. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Eddie
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Bird
Rest in Peace
It's amazing how many "specialized" tools you can make yourself with a little ingenuity, a little metal, and a welding rig.
CurlyDave
Elite Member
Eddie:
I have rebuilt gas engines before, but never a diesel, and never a sleeved one, so this question is just out of curiosity. (I did rebuld a rotary-engine Mazda way back when.)
What seals the joint betweeen the block and the sleeve?
I followed the part about cooling the sleeve and heating the block so that thermal expansion would allow the sleeve to slip in easily and then expand to fit, but the difference in size is going to be small.
If there is any rust, scale or other corruption in the sealing area between the sleeve and the sealing surface in the block will there be trouble?
Does anyone with experience care to comment?
Dave
P.S. I want to see a picture of this thing working after all this...
I have rebuilt gas engines before, but never a diesel, and never a sleeved one, so this question is just out of curiosity. (I did rebuld a rotary-engine Mazda way back when.)
What seals the joint betweeen the block and the sleeve?
I followed the part about cooling the sleeve and heating the block so that thermal expansion would allow the sleeve to slip in easily and then expand to fit, but the difference in size is going to be small.
If there is any rust, scale or other corruption in the sealing area between the sleeve and the sealing surface in the block will there be trouble?
Does anyone with experience care to comment?
Dave
P.S. I want to see a picture of this thing working after all this...
L
LarryRB
Guest
My father in law was a Int'l Harvester truck dealer over 40 years, One thing all his mechanics did was the new replacement sleeves were put into a freezer two days before installing. This, made them almost "drop" back in.. Of course these are the old timer mechanics, the way things were done then,,
I knew Steph would get involved here at some point, just thought she'd have a wrench in her hand /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif..
Eddie, maybe you can sell your design for a couple hundred bucks...Its amazing what one can do if he really thinks about it..
Curly, I'm in a similar boat as far as actually doing one of these.. But, to my knowledge, its just a metal to metal connection(seal).. The minute size change of metal under different temps is plenty to create this seal. This is also part of the reason you need to add an anti cavitation additive to your coolant on a regular basis.. It reduces the scale, electrolisys and metal transfer that would cause a leak.. Like I said, I've never actually done one, but thats my understanding of it..
Eddie, maybe you can sell your design for a couple hundred bucks...Its amazing what one can do if he really thinks about it..
Curly, I'm in a similar boat as far as actually doing one of these.. But, to my knowledge, its just a metal to metal connection(seal).. The minute size change of metal under different temps is plenty to create this seal. This is also part of the reason you need to add an anti cavitation additive to your coolant on a regular basis.. It reduces the scale, electrolisys and metal transfer that would cause a leak.. Like I said, I've never actually done one, but thats my understanding of it..
Oh, Eddie, BTW,
The diesel fuel in the oil thing is to "clean" things up a bit.. The issue here is that you wont have a dirty engine when youre done.. The bearings will be relatively dry when you first go to cranking on it.. You want real oil there not a thinned one.. If you had an engine with a gazzilion hrs on it and the oil looked nasty(or maybe HEUI injectors that were sticking) a quart of diesel fuel would help clean it out.. Some of you guys may have heard of ATF in a gass burner or even Mytery Oil, same thinking..
The diesel fuel in the oil thing is to "clean" things up a bit.. The issue here is that you wont have a dirty engine when youre done.. The bearings will be relatively dry when you first go to cranking on it.. You want real oil there not a thinned one.. If you had an engine with a gazzilion hrs on it and the oil looked nasty(or maybe HEUI injectors that were sticking) a quart of diesel fuel would help clean it out.. Some of you guys may have heard of ATF in a gass burner or even Mytery Oil, same thinking..
Bird
Rest in Peace
Not only heard of it, but I've used ATF and even kerosene to flush an engine; mixed with oil of course.
wroughtn_harv
Super Member
The difference a little heat makes can best be understood when replacing the starter ring on the flyweel of a standard transmission motor.
You can pound and press until the cows come home and it won't go on. But if you take a torch and gently heat up the ring, not to red, just hot, that pupply will literally fall on and after the temperatures have equalized between the ring and flywheel you can't remove the ring.
One of the images I have in my mind is Eddie at Lowes explaining why he doesn't want the freezer after just a couple of days use. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Look at the size of those sleeves and then imagine trying to put six of them in your freezer. Might be time for a large ice chest and some dry ice. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
You can pound and press until the cows come home and it won't go on. But if you take a torch and gently heat up the ring, not to red, just hot, that pupply will literally fall on and after the temperatures have equalized between the ring and flywheel you can't remove the ring.
One of the images I have in my mind is Eddie at Lowes explaining why he doesn't want the freezer after just a couple of days use. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Look at the size of those sleeves and then imagine trying to put six of them in your freezer. Might be time for a large ice chest and some dry ice. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
