Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!

[RobJ]

If the pin won't fit that's one thing, if it binded when you installed it and that caused the mark in the bushing then I would suggest putting the pin in from the other side, let it clean up the boogered up part of the bushing. Then just leave it. I don't think it would cause a problem. I remember some kits that came with rod bushings and we never used them.

 

[RobJ]

If the pin won't fit that's one thing, if it binded when you installed it and that caused the mark in the bushing then I would suggest putting the pin in from the other side, let it clean up the boogered up part of the bushing. Then just leave it. I don't think it would cause a problem. I remember some kits that came with rod bushings and we never used them.

 

[plowrup]

Hope I'm not stepping on anyone's Toes here, but I used to work for Case (about 14 Years worth)-now at John Deere (15 Years and counting).

When I was with Case, we had problems with that engine spitting the Top Ring off of the Piston. In certain Models the was a Mod Program, and Case replaced them at no charge. Now, I am certain this Program has been discontinued years ago.

I agree with the idea that you may have not needed to replace the wrist pin bushings-too late for that now, but if you still haven't resolved it, I would take it to a Machine Shop and have them fit the Pins to the installed bushings. I glanced through this thread and was wondering-are you having the Ijjectors tested (as someone here suggested)? What about the Head-are you having it pressure tested (or black-lighted or magnufluxed)? Sounds like you've had some good advise regarding the Crank spec's. What was the conditon of the Engine when you got it apart? How many hours are on your Dozer? As a general rule, we replace the Rod bolts on Gas engines, not so much on Diesels.

Again, sounds like you have received a lot of good advise here, hope my ramblings help your situation! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[plowrup]

Hope I'm not stepping on anyone's Toes here, but I used to work for Case (about 14 Years worth)-now at John Deere (15 Years and counting).

When I was with Case, we had problems with that engine spitting the Top Ring off of the Piston. In certain Models the was a Mod Program, and Case replaced them at no charge. Now, I am certain this Program has been discontinued years ago.

I agree with the idea that you may have not needed to replace the wrist pin bushings-too late for that now, but if you still haven't resolved it, I would take it to a Machine Shop and have them fit the Pins to the installed bushings. I glanced through this thread and was wondering-are you having the Ijjectors tested (as someone here suggested)? What about the Head-are you having it pressure tested (or black-lighted or magnufluxed)? Sounds like you've had some good advise regarding the Crank spec's. What was the conditon of the Engine when you got it apart? How many hours are on your Dozer? As a general rule, we replace the Rod bolts on Gas engines, not so much on Diesels.

Again, sounds like you have received a lot of good advise here, hope my ramblings help your situation! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[EddieWalker]

plowrup,

Thanks for your interest and help.

I've also heard that the early 8.3's had problems with their pistons and that allot of them burned holes in the piston tops. That's what I was expecting when I pulled the head.

Two pistons have been replaces with new rod bolts, but the other four look original. The hour meter says 5,300 hours on it, but it's a 1989 model and the belley plate under the engine is totally packed in sand and I have aftermarket tracks.

The injector nozzles looked pretty bad, with the one from number 4 cylinder breaking off as it came out. I lost a few pices, but was still able to get the core price for it with the others. I bought new nozzles.

The head has been redone, but the original valves were fine and reused. New spirngs and stems. It's ready to pick up, but I'm waiting on everything to be done before I pay. They hope to have the bushing honed today, but it might not be until tomorrow.

In hindsight, I've wasted a week here running back and forth on these bushings. If a little play in the wrist pin and the connnecting rod bushing is normal, than this has been a total waste. For piece of mind, I'm glad I've done it.

The engine itself is spotless. I don't know diesels, so maybe this is normal, but there is no crud or buidlup of any kind. Every internal metal piece is shinny new looking!!

The rod bolts weren't expensive, and I ruined one taking out the piston in number six anyway, so after a few people mentioned it, I went ahead and bought all new rod bolts.

I'm reusing the head bolts and haven't ever heard you shouldn't, so they're keepers. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Everything seems simple enough to me now, except for the valve timeing. Finding TDC for each cylinder seems kind of tricky and I'm hoping the valves opening and closeing as I turn the crank will be fairly obvious.

The only time I've adjusted valves is on a VW in highschool, and it was always running at the time.

Hopefully tomorow will be the magic day and I can start putting it back together.

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

plowrup,

Thanks for your interest and help.

I've also heard that the early 8.3's had problems with their pistons and that allot of them burned holes in the piston tops. That's what I was expecting when I pulled the head.

Two pistons have been replaces with new rod bolts, but the other four look original. The hour meter says 5,300 hours on it, but it's a 1989 model and the belley plate under the engine is totally packed in sand and I have aftermarket tracks.

The injector nozzles looked pretty bad, with the one from number 4 cylinder breaking off as it came out. I lost a few pices, but was still able to get the core price for it with the others. I bought new nozzles.

The head has been redone, but the original valves were fine and reused. New spirngs and stems. It's ready to pick up, but I'm waiting on everything to be done before I pay. They hope to have the bushing honed today, but it might not be until tomorrow.

In hindsight, I've wasted a week here running back and forth on these bushings. If a little play in the wrist pin and the connnecting rod bushing is normal, than this has been a total waste. For piece of mind, I'm glad I've done it.

The engine itself is spotless. I don't know diesels, so maybe this is normal, but there is no crud or buidlup of any kind. Every internal metal piece is shinny new looking!!

The rod bolts weren't expensive, and I ruined one taking out the piston in number six anyway, so after a few people mentioned it, I went ahead and bought all new rod bolts.

I'm reusing the head bolts and haven't ever heard you shouldn't, so they're keepers. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Everything seems simple enough to me now, except for the valve timeing. Finding TDC for each cylinder seems kind of tricky and I'm hoping the valves opening and closeing as I turn the crank will be fairly obvious.

The only time I've adjusted valves is on a VW in highschool, and it was always running at the time.

Hopefully tomorow will be the magic day and I can start putting it back together.

Eddie

 

[whitetiger]

When setting your valves just turn the engine and watch the rocker arms. With intake and exhaust rocking on number one cyclinder, adjust number 6 valve lash, both intake and exhaust valves.
Rock number 5 and adjust 2, rock 3- adjust 4, rock 6-adjust 1, rock 2- adjust 5, rock 4 - adjust 3. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[whitetiger]

When setting your valves just turn the engine and watch the rocker arms. With intake and exhaust rocking on number one cyclinder, adjust number 6 valve lash, both intake and exhaust valves.
Rock number 5 and adjust 2, rock 3- adjust 4, rock 6-adjust 1, rock 2- adjust 5, rock 4 - adjust 3. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[plowrup]

Eddie,

Sorry to ask the same question again here, but I am trying to understand which part failed? Was it a Piston? You did not indicate that you had the Head checked for cracks or straightness-was that done? Have you had the Injection pump checked and recalibrated? With the change in Diesel Fuel (less Zinc and Additives) we have seen increased Injection Pump wear, and, at 5900 Hours if it were in my Shop we would have it checked.

 

[plowrup]

Eddie,

Sorry to ask the same question again here, but I am trying to understand which part failed? Was it a Piston? You did not indicate that you had the Head checked for cracks or straightness-was that done? Have you had the Injection pump checked and recalibrated? With the change in Diesel Fuel (less Zinc and Additives) we have seen increased Injection Pump wear, and, at 5900 Hours if it were in my Shop we would have it checked.