Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!

[EddieWalker]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You do not cool or freeze WET sleeves when installing in the block. All this talking of chilling them is for DRY sleeves only as they can be as much as .005" interferance fit.
When installing a wet sleeve you clean out the step at the top of your block and the sealing surface near the bottom, lube your seals with liquid soap and set that puppy in the hole. It will freely go till the sealing rings (o-rings) contact the bottom of the water jacket. Check your sleeve for proper index with the crank (notches in bottom of sleeve). At this point lay a peice of clean hard wood across the top of the sleeve and while holding the wood tap the sleeve home. Do not hit it hard, just gentle raps with a 2LBS hammer.
You could also make a fixture that will bolt to the top of the block going across the sleeve and push it down with a small hyd jack. )</font>


OK, sounds like you know more about this than the rest of us and you're the first and only one to mention there is a difference between wet and dry sleeves.

Mine are wet sleeves.

Will freezing them help at all? Or is this strictly a technique used for dry sleeves?

I've been looking in my two refrigerators and stand up freezer to find space to put six sleeves, with some serious head scratching going on. Harvey got me wondering about space for all those sleeves and how long I need to leave them in the freezer. If I don't have to do this, I can start assembly tomorrow after I pic up my parts and not wait until Wednesday for them to freeze.

I also didn't notice any "O" rings, but they could have been destroyed coming out, or do they melt to form a seal from the engine temps? Could it just be a term and not really look like "O" rings that I'm familiar with?

I'm also wondering what everyone uses to lube the head bolts? Any recomondations?

Thanks.




Dave,

The parts of the picture you circled are surface rust like a film from an early morning downpour. I sprayed it with JB oil and wiped it all down. I was thinking of you when I first got started, so took the picture first, then put away the camera before getting dirty. Steph says she's never seen anybody get as dirty as I do!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You do not cool or freeze WET sleeves when installing in the block. All this talking of chilling them is for DRY sleeves only as they can be as much as .005" interferance fit.
When installing a wet sleeve you clean out the step at the top of your block and the sealing surface near the bottom, lube your seals with liquid soap and set that puppy in the hole. It will freely go till the sealing rings (o-rings) contact the bottom of the water jacket. Check your sleeve for proper index with the crank (notches in bottom of sleeve). At this point lay a peice of clean hard wood across the top of the sleeve and while holding the wood tap the sleeve home. Do not hit it hard, just gentle raps with a 2LBS hammer.
You could also make a fixture that will bolt to the top of the block going across the sleeve and push it down with a small hyd jack. )</font>


OK, sounds like you know more about this than the rest of us and you're the first and only one to mention there is a difference between wet and dry sleeves.

Mine are wet sleeves.

Will freezing them help at all? Or is this strictly a technique used for dry sleeves?

I've been looking in my two refrigerators and stand up freezer to find space to put six sleeves, with some serious head scratching going on. Harvey got me wondering about space for all those sleeves and how long I need to leave them in the freezer. If I don't have to do this, I can start assembly tomorrow after I pic up my parts and not wait until Wednesday for them to freeze.

I also didn't notice any "O" rings, but they could have been destroyed coming out, or do they melt to form a seal from the engine temps? Could it just be a term and not really look like "O" rings that I'm familiar with?

I'm also wondering what everyone uses to lube the head bolts? Any recomondations?

Thanks.




Dave,

The parts of the picture you circled are surface rust like a film from an early morning downpour. I sprayed it with JB oil and wiped it all down. I was thinking of you when I first got started, so took the picture first, then put away the camera before getting dirty. Steph says she's never seen anybody get as dirty as I do!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Eddie

 

[tlbuser]

Cooling a wet sleeve liner is something that is usually NOT done. There is some type of sealing surface (usually o-rings) to keep the wet components (oil and anti-freeze) away from the dry components AND separated from each other. A wet sleeve should press in fairly easy using just some o-ring lube (not vaseline).
We usually apply anti-seize compound to head bolts, but others use threadlocker.
I have not done this on a Cummins diesel, I've only worked on Cat, Detroit and Isuzu.

clevite

BTW, nice tools /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[tlbuser]

Cooling a wet sleeve liner is something that is usually NOT done. There is some type of sealing surface (usually o-rings) to keep the wet components (oil and anti-freeze) away from the dry components AND separated from each other. A wet sleeve should press in fairly easy using just some o-ring lube (not vaseline).
We usually apply anti-seize compound to head bolts, but others use threadlocker.
I have not done this on a Cummins diesel, I've only worked on Cat, Detroit and Isuzu.

clevite

BTW, nice tools /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[whitetiger]

There is no advantage to cooling a wet sleeve. The only thing that keeps it from dropping into place is the o-ring seals at the lowwer end. Before you install the o-rins on your new sleeve you should set it into the block and check your sleeve hight with a straight edge and feeler gauge.
I just use engine oil for head bolt lube also the same for any other bolt.
Your o-ring on the old sleeve are there, just do not look like o-rings anymore.
I just put one sleeve in an 8.3 from a NH TJ tractor a few months ago and have overhauled probably 200 diesel engines in the last 25 years. Most were sleeved engines.

 

[whitetiger]

There is no advantage to cooling a wet sleeve. The only thing that keeps it from dropping into place is the o-ring seals at the lowwer end. Before you install the o-rins on your new sleeve you should set it into the block and check your sleeve hight with a straight edge and feeler gauge.
I just use engine oil for head bolt lube also the same for any other bolt.
Your o-ring on the old sleeve are there, just do not look like o-rings anymore.
I just put one sleeve in an 8.3 from a NH TJ tractor a few months ago and have overhauled probably 200 diesel engines in the last 25 years. Most were sleeved engines.

 

[cmuncy]

In our diesel drag trucks, we use a high pressure lube for the head studs from Chicago Manufacturing and Distributing . It's a high pressure lube, unlike anything you've ever tried, and works great.

 

[cmuncy]

In our diesel drag trucks, we use a high pressure lube for the head studs from Chicago Manufacturing and Distributing . It's a high pressure lube, unlike anything you've ever tried, and works great.

 

[EddieWalker]

Another question or two.

I'm still a few days away from getting the head, but hope to get the rebuild kit tomorrow. I'll pic up some o'ring lube tomorrow also from Napa. Any suggestions on what I need to ask them for?

My question is where is TDC? Is it on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke? How do I know which is which without the head on? Is thise where I need to be to adjust the valves?

The whole valve adjustment has me paniced anyway. I'm hopeing to get the crank in the correct position to begin with.

My next question is how to adjust the valves?

How do I know when I'm at TDC for each cylinder?

Thank you,
Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

Another question or two.

I'm still a few days away from getting the head, but hope to get the rebuild kit tomorrow. I'll pic up some o'ring lube tomorrow also from Napa. Any suggestions on what I need to ask them for?

My question is where is TDC? Is it on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke? How do I know which is which without the head on? Is thise where I need to be to adjust the valves?

The whole valve adjustment has me paniced anyway. I'm hopeing to get the crank in the correct position to begin with.

My next question is how to adjust the valves?

How do I know when I'm at TDC for each cylinder?

Thank you,
Eddie