Welding a hydraulic anchor point

   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point
  • Thread Starter
#31  
Can you post a picture? Some small wire feed welders are capable of welding 1/8 steel but there are other considerations. The biggest reason welds fail from the 110 volt machines is from poor penetration of the weld bead. This is from not enough heat. Not enough heat can be caused by many things. Not recognizing poor penetration is often the result of inexperience. You may be able to get a good weld with your machine but it depends on what the part to be welded is and what the conditions are. It could be that pre heating the area will be needed with your low amperage machine. But some crummy machines aren't up to the task. And just how good of a weldor are you? Are you confident you have the skill to do this if given some direction?
Eric

I think he got scared off. No pics... And too many people seem confident it cannot be done....without even seeing it .. lol. Go figure
Hold on a sec LD1 I haven't had a chance to get back to the replies I've received. As you may e able to see the previous break actually tore out a piece of the metal under it and they didn't shore it up with a reinforcement plate under it before attempting the fix, and it's on a bit of a curve to boot.
Please see attached pics., of someones poor stacked weld. I do have a basic knowledge of welding but little practical other than with my lincoln mig pak 11V wire feed welder. I havr a lincoln 225A AC welder but haven't got ah 220V hookup for it yet
 

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   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point
  • Thread Starter
#32  
maybe post up your location ?
I bet if there is a local forum member, they would be happy to assist
I'm in Ontario Canada between Kingston and Napanee.
 
   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point
  • Thread Starter
#33  
Would have to know a lot mote about failed weld and it's location... I weld up to 1/4 inch materials with Hobart Handler 140 (120v) but there is just some things it can not do....And a bigger machine is required.... Need pictures of problem area and previous weld....
Here'some some pics. This crappy weld I didn't even get the bucket to the ground and barley stated to drag and rotate the bucket and "clink" the weld broke. So dunno what they used for a welder? Currently other than renting a second Uhaul tariler I have nothing availbe to take the machine to a competent welder.
 

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   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point
  • Thread Starter
#34  
Yes the welder is capable of making the repair on a little hoe and 1/8" plate. But as Rick mentioned...is the weldor capable?

Perhaps a pic or two and you can get some better tailored advice on the best way/method to make the repair
Here's the pics. Its a Lincoln Mig pak 10 110V wire feed.
 

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   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point #35  
Classic case of "bigger the blob better the job" mentality.
 
   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point #36  
Classic case of "bigger the blob better the job" mentality.

It’s not a good cylinder mount either. Even if a pro welder had done it there’s little chance of it working with so little weld area.
 
   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point #37  
It's a little hard to tell but it looks like most of the weld did not penetrate enough for most of the area where the weld was attempted. A classic symptom of not enough heat, it was just laying on top of the metal. So it peeled away. Where it did stick, since the area was so small, it was subjected to too much load and broke the parent metal.
If you think you have enough skill to re-weld this then my advice is to first practice on some similar thickness metal. Even 10 minutes practice just before you do the real weld will help a lot. But I would do a little more than 10 minutes. Maybe 11 or 12. Or 30. Anyway, aside from practice you should grind away as much of the crappy weld as possible. It stuck so poorly to the large piece it probably isn't stuck very well to the smaller pieces.
After all the crappy original weld is ground away you could consider welding the cylinder mount to a piece of 1/8 thick steel that is considerably larger than the area the mount was welded to. Then this plate could be welded to the large piece. It would need to be welded all around the perimeter. But you would also need to drill a bunch of holes through the plate, about 1/2 inch or so in diameter. Then you need to weld through these holes to the parent metal. These types of welds are called plug welds.
It would probably help a lot to pre-heat the steel before welding. Heating to even 400 degrees will make a big difference when it comes to proper penetration.
Good Luck,
Eric
 
   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point #38  
Great to see the pics. I can't imagine trying to stick that mess with a glue gun. Need to call in a mobile pro welder.
It will cost a few $ but will be done right.
 
   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point #39  
Hold on a sec LD1 I haven't had a chance to get back to the replies I've received. As you may e able to see the previous break actually tore out a piece of the metal under it and they didn't shore it up with a reinforcement plate under it before attempting the fix, and it's on a bit of a curve to boot.
Please see attached pics., of someones poor stacked weld. I do have a basic knowledge of welding but little practical other than with my lincoln mig pak 11V wire feed welder. I havr a lincoln 225A AC welder but haven't got ah 220V hookup for it yet
Yeh it does look like that weld was just laying on top with little penetration.

You got a real mig or you mean flux core "mig"? If it's real mig 110v, maybe considering switching polarity, tossing in some flux core wire and welding it that way. You'll get more penetration from flux core than mig. Me with my stick welder, 6011 on that, I'd have some uglyass welds (coz I suck at welding) but it would definitely hold.

Like etpm says, practice a little on some spare metal before going to town on this. But with that said, weld that sheeeeit!




go-for-it-you-can-do-it.gif
 
   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point #40  
The design of those mounting ears is, ummm, how do is say this politely. The design of the mounting ears sux. Best to just toss them and start over. There are reasons that cylinders are mounted on doublers with long triangular bases to spread the load over a greater area. Especially the dipper stick and bucket cylinder mounts. I have never seen a dipper stick cylinder mount like this. See pics for reference. Do you have an overall photo of the boom and dipper?

Unfortunately this repair needs more than just welding the original part back on. This also really needs stick welding or high power MIG to get the proper penetration. How soon can you have 230v power? Do you have a 230v generator? Can you borrow or rent one?

But there is still the basic issue of the design of the cylinder mounting ears. These need to be redone to have any hope of surviving. If you manage to get good penetration, i predict the base metal will tear out (again).
 
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