welding on landpride

[candyman]

8' rear blade { from pix worth a k. words. }


moldboard on blade is really deep on a bigger tractor or taller tire would not be a problem.
so i need to weld some kind of bracket on bottom of blade so the 3 pt. hitch will hook up on a lower point.
the land i have is all red clay , springs everywhere tractor is always is ruts zoom in on pix & ya`ll see what i am up against.
i must raise the blade higher to keep from dragging, need ideas. ???

the idea i had to weld brackets has been scratched, by your suggestions.

the blade i need to raise,

candyman

 

[moored4]

Is this a 2nd post to another post? If it is you need to keep all comments on the same thread for continuity! Because if this is the 1st post to a new thread I'm Confused! :confused2:

 

[gwdixon]

Is this a 2nd post to another post? If it is you need to keep all comments on the same thread for continuity! Because if this is the 1st post to a new thread I'm Confused! :confused2:

The story is that a general welding question was asked in the first thread. The thread became very long and diverged somewhat.

Then the OP came up with an idea and question about what to do with his blade. It is a completely different subject from the original.

Anyway, the suggestion to shorten the top link all the way, or even use a real short length of chain in place of the top link would rotate the blade up and away from the goop in the photos.

What really should be done is to get a middle buster and put in ditches to try to concentrate and improve the drainage. French drains would also work but that would take a backhoe.

 

[Gary Fowler]

The one thing that I can suggest that will be way more value than modifying your blade is just this:
DONT TRY TO WORK SOIL IN THE MUD, YOU JUST MAKE MORE MUD.
From looking at your photos it looks like you have been trying to ditch out some rather muddy areas. It is nearly impossible to do any dirt work in mud even with a dozer as the mud just turns to slush and what ever you do is going to require more energy to fix in the long run. Just park your tractor and wait for it to dry out a bit. If you have some ponding water spots, you might take your blade and put in a small ditch to drain the water, but save the final grading till summer. Maybe take a digital camera, take some photos to refresh your memory of what it looks like wet to help you work the area when dry.
Use your down time to practice your welding skills on some scrap so come summer and dryer weather, you will have time to sharpen your welding skills and been able to modify your blade to suit your tractor with a decently holding weld.
I cant caution enough to make sure those are good welds because if one breaks and the blade comes loose on one side, it could get into the tires and ruin a tire (or two) or worse crawl up the wheel and be on the tractor with you before you can stop.

 

[candyman]

thanks guys.

a middle buster, huh. ?
saturday at the restaurant got talking to a retired fellow that turns out to be a retired welder by trade, what luck & doesn`t live to far away. he offered to do the welding for me.

so now all is needed are plans on welding some kind of supports / brackets to connect the 3 pt. hitch lower on the blade. ???

gary, no the ruts are from just driving around, have not used blade yet.

candyman

 

[Shield Arc]

saturday at the restaurant got talking to a retired fellow that turns out to be a retired welder by trade, what luck & doesn`t live to far away. he offered to do the welding for me.

Well you sure lucked out! Now hog tie him until he agrees to give you one on one instruction. :thumbsup:

 

[Gary Fowler]

If the guy is a retired welder, I suspect he will have a good idea on how to set up the attachement and properly weld and gusset it. Most professional welders have a pretty good idea of what is needed to make iron hold together and the amount of weld needed especially ones that have been in the business for many years. After a while, you dont need engineers to design it and put fillet weld sizes, you just know what is needed prior to the inspector coming by with his drawing and little gauges.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I know it is likely not needed, but when the guy comes over to weld it, get your hood on and watch closely. Ask question as to why he is doing something if you dont understand. I would bet that an hour of him watching you will do more to improve your welding than 50 hours of you practicing burning rods on your own. If he is a beer drinker, he would likely give you some hands on training for a few beers while the training is happening, just limit the alcohol consumption to extent that you dont get to the point of "Hold my beer and watch this"

 

[LD1]

I guess I am confused on what you are asking here. Something isnt adding up.

I understand you are wanting to get the blade to lift higher, but "assuming" you are using this on the MX5100 in your profile....That tractor should be more than capable of getting that blade ~3' in the air. And with it that high, If you are in enough muck that it is dragging....you have other things to worry about.

For starters, (I dont know if avaliable on the MX) but my smaller kubota has multiple holes for the side-links. Make sure these are in the top hole, that will gain a few inches right there.

And definatally shorted the TL. Heck, I have a 7' CAT II blade similar to yours on my MUCH smaller L3400. And I have no trouble at all getting the blade to raise several feet off the ground.

So could you give a little clarity here on WHY you would need to raise the blade higher than 36":confused2:

 

[candyman]

ldi,

the blade 8' has such a high moldboard not matter how i adj. any links or arms 2i" is max it will raise off ground & stiil have enough tilt { angled in } to dig, but then it is to close to the ground.
yes i can close the gap on the top link & raise it much higher but it is tilted back to far & not able to cut a ditch.
i know what i mean but i am having a hard time xplaining it.

i`ll take pix today & show what i mean. i must be the only one to ever have this problem.

candyman