welding on landpride

[candyman]

hey all,

i did some fooling around with the blade thursday wiil xplain..

think i should carry this on over to " attachments " were way of course on welding. ?

cm

 

[LD1]

hey all,

i did some fooling around with the blade thursday wiil xplain..

think i should carry this on over to " attachments " were way of course on welding. ?

cm

You dont have to. Keep it all in the same forum so those of us that have posted and "subscribed" can stay updated on your progress.

If you do decide to start a new thread, copy and paste a link in this thread so those of us who may not catch the other thread will see:thumbsup:

 

[JoeL4330]

my top link is hydraulic, so having a few extras around is an expensive alternative to a short one and an extension...but, the right answer for me isn't for everyone ...yes, adding length makes the OP's problem worse, but that wasn't what I suggested: I suggested a shorter toplink and only mentioned the adapter I use because the issue of "angle of attack" of the blade was discussed, which I can control with my hydraulic tailwheel somewhat independent of the toplink.

 

[candyman]

ldi,

i`ll take your advice.

cm

 

[Jamming]

If it was mine i would drop the upper arm to the lowest hole or even add another plate for more adjustability, then weld a tube under the same lower connections and add connection ears, that would raise the whole blade 4-5" and allow for the correct andgle on the blade.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I have been driving tractors for over half a century and I have not came across any equipment that needed additional hook up points welded on to make them work properly. I know this blade will work if all the points made on this thread are followed including the one about moving your top link to the bottom hole in the blade yoke. With the 8 foot blade tilted to the max, you just arent going to get a lot of ground clearance. If you get it up high enough to get high clearance then you wont have much depth to dig with. 3PH lifts only travel about 18" or less from lowest to highest point. You get your tail end adjustment from the top link. You just have to finesse the adjustments to get the best of blade clearance height and still have the cutting angle that you need. When the top link is lengthened to make the cut more agressive, you arent going to get a lot of ground clearance. It takes lots of top link adjustment running a blade or box blade which is why folks who do a lot of it, run a hydraulic top link and side links sometimes which is then called TnT for top and tilt but that aint cheap to set up.

Candyman: let us know how it all turns out after adjustments are made.

 

[LD1]

I have been driving tractors for over half a century and I have not came across any equipment that needed additional hook up points welded on to make them work properly. I know this blade will work if all the points made on this thread are followed including the one about moving your top link to the bottom hole in the blade yoke.Candyman: let us know how it all turns out after adjustments are made.

AMEN:thumbsup: