welding on landpride

[MtnViewRanch]

As pointed out, you have another hole of adjustment on your lift arms to take advantage of ...and, you can always get a shorter toplink but, as you say (and others seem not to have appreciated) just shortening the toplink changes the "angle of attack" of the blade.

If your landpride is like mine, I have 30" of offset which is how I do my ditching, so that the tractor stays level and I use the tilt of the blade to cut the ditch ...but, if you don't use the offset, can't you use subsequent passes? on each successive pass, the tractor will tilt, no?

In my case, I use a short toplink with a swinging toplink adapter (HF) to get the length when I need it and to allow compliance in the blade. I have posted this picture before, but it explains my geometry, which is quite satisfactory for my ditching ...and other purposes, and allows the hydraulic tail wheel to function best.

CM has a an RB3596 blade. It only has 12" of offset. The best and easiest thing for him is to get a Top and Tilt set. But if money is tight and we all know that it is for a lot of us, then other options are needed. I think that if he angled the blade as in my pics and tilted it to the first tilt pin hole on the blade, he would be fine. As you said, each pass is deeper and the tractor follows suit. The tractor is not big enough to cut the trench with one pass anyway. 2 or 3 passes and all will be fine, he just needs to have his blade set properly, which can be done with what he has.

 

[rambler]

1. You are using the cat 2 mounting holes of the blade with your cat 1 tractor. Re-pin the blade onto the tractor using the inner slot, not the outer slots. This will make a big difference.

2. the vertical arms of your 3pt on your tractor have 3 different holes in the bottom. You are in the middlehole. Use the top hole, and your 3pt will lift higher.

3. You are using the top hole on the blade for the upper arm of the 3pt. I think you will have a more level, even lift if you used the bottom hole.

Probably that will give you more lift that the brackets you want to weld on.

If the problem is only in that one picture that you have tilted the blade to one side, well that is how it is supposed to work. You rarely use that much angle, pin the thing level when it transport, get off & pin it tilted for use, then pin it back straight.

Hook the blade up to your tractor in the cat 1 holes, and most of the problem will go away anyhow. Good luck with it.

A hyd top link will take care of any other issues. A top & tilt will also allow you to straighten or tilt the blade from your tractor seat, if you intend to tilt it very often over the years.

--->Paul

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Paul, good catch on the wrong mounting hole location. :thumbsup: Although I think that the MX5100 is actually a cat 1-2 hitch as in the balls rotate for either size pins. But he will for sure be better off mounting to the cat 1 locations on the rear blade.

But again we are back to a "TnT" set would solve all the problems.

 

[Gary Fowler]

GW nailed most of it. It looks like you have one more hole adjustment to shorten your vertical lift rods to the 3 point lift arms which will help you a lot. Also you need to swing the blade so the tip is just about center on you tire or at least to the outside of your tire, then you are digging where your wheels are running. You really need to watch unscrewing that top link as it looks like is is just about to come apart in some of the photos. They will unscrew completely. Move the top link down to the bottom hole in your blade and it will give you a bit more lift also.
I also wouldnt continue with the proposed modification as it looks like you will run into clearance problems with the top link. I think you will be happy with the performance if you do the 3 thinks we have recommended. I have pulled a lot of blades from the little cheapos for 8n to the huge 1600 pound Rhino on the back of a dual wheeled Ford 9000 tractor and never had to modify the blade to make them work. I didnt see that you blade swiveled at the front to offset it, that is a nice feature to have on a back blade.
Try what we suggested and let us know how it works. It think you can dig a good ditch with the top link shortened all the way up. You can likely back off to the next hole up on the tilt after you swing it around. It may take a littl bit to get it set just right and may would a hydraulic top link be handy for ditching and box blade work. I am like you and dont have one but every time I do blade work or box blade work, I swear I am going to lay out the money for one. A actually have a regular hydraulic cylinder that I might could make work. If I ever get out of Algeria and back home I may try it out.

Already mentioned the top hole movement for the 3rd link. I think we have covered everything that needs to happen. It should work fine after all the suggestions are completed.

 

[Gary Fowler]

As pointed out, you have another hole of adjustment on your lift arms to take advantage of ...and, you can always get a shorter toplink but, as you say (and others seem not to have appreciated) just shortening the toplink changes the "angle of attack" of the blade.If your landpride is like mine, I have 30" of offset which is how I do my ditching, so that the tractor stays level and I use the tilt of the blade to cut the ditch ...but, if you don't use the offset, can't you use subsequent passes? on each successive pass, the tractor will tilt, no?

In my case, I use a short toplink with a swinging toplink adapter (HF) to get the length when I need it and to allow compliance in the blade. I have posted this picture before, but it explains my geometry, which is quite satisfactory for my ditching ...and other purposes, and allows the hydraulic tail wheel to function best.

Angle of attack is not an issue when the blade is tilted for trenching, it will still dig well with the top link shortened all the way. Once he gets his ditch deep enough and starts sloping out the sides a bit is when he needs to change the angle of attack and at that time, he wont have such radical tilt so the blade will lift higher. Hydraulic top link would save a lot of getting on and off the tractor, but is not a requirement for working a tractor, just a time and labor saving device, same as the tilt hydraulics.

 

[candyman]

mt.view,

that set up you have looks great, how did you ever get the blade at that angle . oh by the way is that what dirt looks like. ??

joel, could not find on hf that swivel got a part #.

thanks you all for the suggestions & ideas. I`ll try them out thursday & report back.
when to the dealer to measure a l/p 84 in. blade the mold board & the distance to the top mounting hole is only 1 in. each i thought it would be much less, so based on that the blade is not to big maybe just to wide.

cm

 

[MtnViewRanch]

mt.view,

that set up you have looks great, how did you ever get the blade at that angle . oh by the way is that what dirt looks like. ??

cm

CM, if you are talking about the blue blade, then it is angled forward, tilted over with the pin in the blade and tilted with the hydraulic side link. That is a 96" wide blade, same width as yours. This is all very easy to accomplish and still be able to drive around with the ability of tilting the hitch with the hydraulic side link.

Doesn't everybody have dirt like that, rock and root free? I sometimes forget that not everyone is so fortunate.

 

[JoeL4330]

I don't have a part no. for the adapter, but if you look here
http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/97000-97999/97214.pdf
on pp. 6 & 7 you will see it described ...it used to be that on the HF page that offered the 3 point quick hitch they showed it as an accessory
3-Point Quick Hitch for Tractors - 27-1/2" Clearance
I would guess that if you called HF you can order it from them ...and/or, it is easy for a fabricator to make: two reverse-bent pieces with holes, welded together, as in my picture

 

[eastexan]

I don't have a part no. for the adapter, but if you look here
http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/97000-97999/97214.pdf
on pp. 6 & 7 you will see it described ...it used to be that on the HF page that offered the 3 point quick hitch they showed it as an accessory
3-Point Quick Hitch for Tractors - 27-1/2" Clearance
I would guess that if you called HF you can order it from them ...and/or, it is easy for a fabricator to make: two reverse-bent pieces with holes, welded together, as in my picture

Quick hitch part number? - TractorByNet.com :thumbsup:

 

[Gary Fowler]

You dont need a top link extension, that would just make your blade lower to the ground. That "extension" Joel has posted looks like the link that installs on a Bush Hog to allow it to float when your tractor goes up a sharp incline to prevent bending the top link. Some folks use chain which you can buy at TSC with flat bar attachments on each end (one adjustable keyhole end). You pin it into your bush hog then connect your top link to it. Some bush hogs come with them already attached and a stop welded on the back so it hits that when lifting up but allows about 4" of free slack when traveling so the hog floats along carring the weight on the tail wheel and the lift arms.
I suppose you could use it for a top link extension if the one you had was too short, or preferable just buy the proper length top link, they arent that expensive. If you had an attachment that required an extra long / extra short TL then buy a spare the proper length and just leave it on that implement.