welding on landpride

[LD1]

ldi,

the blade 8' has such a high moldboard not matter how i adj. any links or arms 2i" is max it will raise off ground & stiil have enough tilt { angled in } to dig, but then it is to close to the ground.
yes i can close the gap on the top link & raise it much higher but it is tilted back to far & not able to cut a ditch.
i know what i mean but i am having a hard time xplaining it.

i`ll take pix today & show what i mean. i must be the only one to ever have this problem.

candyman

Do you have remotes on that tractor?

Because it you plan on ditching much with that setup, I'd advise a Hydraulic toplink for sure, and maybe a side-link as well.

But the toplink will let lengthen enough out to get a good bite, but when you raise the implement for travel, you can shorten it up to "rotate" the blade up and out of the way.

If you do go forth with lowering the pin holes, you will also need to lower the TL hole .

 

[moored4]

If the guy is a retired welder, I suspect he will have a good idea on how to set up the attachement and properly weld and gusset it. Most professional welders have a pretty good idea of what is needed to make iron hold together and the amount of weld needed especially ones that have been in the business for many years. After a while, you dont need engineers to design it and put fillet weld sizes, you just know what is needed prior to the inspector coming by with his drawing and little gauges.

I know it is likely not needed, but when the guy comes over to weld it, get your hood on and watch closely. Ask question as to why he is doing something if you dont understand. I would bet that an hour of him watching you will do more to improve your welding than 50 hours of you practicing burning rods on your own. If he is a beer drinker, he would likely give you some hands on training for a few beers while the training is happening, just limit the alcohol consumption to extent that you dont get to the point of "Hold my beer and watch this"

Gary this is excellent advice! I was going to say something like this but you did it well so IX2 :thumbsup:

 

[moored4]

ldi,

the blade 8' has such a high moldboard not matter how i adj. any links or arms 2i" is max it will raise off ground & stiil have enough tilt { angled in } to dig, but then it is to close to the ground.
yes i can close the gap on the top link & raise it much higher but it is tilted back to far & not able to cut a ditch.
i know what i mean but i am having a hard time xplaining it.

i`ll take pix today & show what i mean. i must be the only one to ever have this problem.

candyman

I have not been able to find the 1st thread so Pic are always nice and worth at least hundreds of words at least! :thumbsup:

 

[Jamming]

I would buy some tubing the same size as the hitch, where the ears are welded, then weld them on the bottom however many times you need to be higher. Then weld some pin ears on the tube, that way you will still have the upper connecting points also and will be much stronger than your approach in the pics.

 

[gwdixon]

thanks guys.

a middle buster, huh. ?
saturday at the restaurant got talking to a retired fellow that turns out to be a retired welder by trade, what luck & doesn`t live to far away. he offered to do the welding for me.

so now all is needed are plans on welding some kind of supports / brackets to connect the 3 pt. hitch lower on the blade. ???

gary, no the ruts are from just driving around, have not used blade yet.

candyman

Here is a link to a photo of a middle buster. It can be used to ditch.

CountyLine Middle Buster - 212822899 | Tractor Supply Company

I use something similar but on an A-frame with a drawbar and clamps.

The retired welder is a godsend. Butter him up, show him your welds, and listen closely to everything he has to say. If he will look over your shoulder you will progress by leaps and bounds.

It is not that others have not had the problem you are facing. Others have gone about a solution in other ways.

It is that you are the first to want to try a fix like you describe. Not a bad thing - just an observation.

 

[candyman]

ldi,

i have 3 different length top lengts, for that purpose &
i sure will butter him up.


jamming,

kinda sounds like a plan, got a DRAWING OR PIX i don`t fully understand. i am a city boy moved to the mudd farm & at my age it`s not easy to understand all things.

candyman

 

[candyman]

gw, thanks for the link.

c/m

 

[Gary Fowler]

I think I understand what you mean, when you tilt the blade and swing it (I assume it has a tilt and swivel function it is very close to the ground. If that is the case, then yes they all do that especially with a wide blade, but you really shouldnt need to tilt it to full extent to dig a ditch. If you dig a ditch with it tilted like that the shoulders would be too step to cross anyway. I find that about half tilt is as much as you would ever need to dig a ditch. The sides need at least 45 degree upslope. If that is NOT what you mean then I am confused also.

 

[eastexan]

I've heard of guys making shorter tractor side links out of pipe. This was done usually because of having smaller than normal rear tires and the side link adjustments wouldn't adjust short enough for certain implements to lift high enough.

Make sure though, not to get the side links too short, or the implement might hit something on the tractor when lifted all the way up.

Your welder friend could probably fab something up along those lines that would work fine.

All things considered though, you need to weigh which would be the easiest and most convenient project for now and the long term.
Since you probably would only be needing that one particular implement raised high enough, you may want to take one of the other suggestions of making the implement fit the tractor rather than vice-versa.

Jamming's idea sounds like it may be a good one, but like you I can't quite visually understand it. Maybe he can clarify it.

 

[rambler]

ldi,

the blade 8' has such a high moldboard not matter how i adj. any links or arms 2i" is max it will raise off ground & stiil have enough tilt { angled in } to dig, but then it is to close to the ground.
yes i can close the gap on the top link & raise it much higher but it is tilted back to far & not able to cut a ditch.
i know what i mean but i am having a hard time xplaining it.

i`ll take pix today & show what i mean. i must be the only one to ever have this problem.

candyman

I think you are trying to use the blade outside of the normal uses of it.

Welding on some brackets more or less as in your picture will change the geomotry of the top link setup and might go the wrong direction, as well as ruining the usefulness of the the blade for more normal uses.

Get a hydraulic top link. I have one and it does _exactly_ what you want to do with my landscape rake. Won't cost more than hiring the welding done, allows you to infanitely adjust the tilt of the blade, and you will find it useful with many other 3pt implements. A hyd top link will become one of your best tractor investments, you won't know how you got along without it.

Welding up some brackets on the blade, I think that will not get you the results or usefullness you are looking for. I think that is a bad move.

If I'm understanding the issue.

--->PAul