Welding virgin needs direction ...

[gauthier]

Crash and burn and me agree 100 percent:thumbsup:

 

[oldyellr]

Being an amateur occasional welder, I read this thread from the beginning. Most of the advice I saw was from "pros" who likely have good equipment and probably can't remember back far enough to where they just couldn't get the hang of it (or else, they were trained by a good teacher and didn't have any problems).

Here's my 2 cents from slow learner:

1. By all means take a community college or night school course if one is available where you are. Watching 100 videos and reading 100 books is nowhere near as good as having a good teacher. I've dabbled with gas and stick welding, brazing and silver soldering and have become quite good at the last two. When we bought a Lincoln TIG welder at work, a guy came in to show the maintenance guy and me how to use it. I was amazed how quickly I picked it up when shown the right way by an expert. I'm sure all the books and videos would not help nearly as much.

2. I have a 140 amp 220 vac stick welder I bought on sale at an auto parts store many years ago. It came with a little mickey mouse hand held shield. My biggest problem (and it still is) was striking an arc in the right place and maintaining it without having the rod stick. Even with a proper helmet at the shop I had trouble with this until we got an auto-darkening helmet. At the time those helmets cost more than my welder, so there's no way I'd be getting one of those. However, you can now get them for as little as $35 at Harbor Freight and I got one locally for about 40-odd bucks. Let me tell you, this helmet almost made me an expert! If you're having trouble, you'll love one of these helmets.

 

[gauthier]

I can still remember my 5th birthday...:laughing: 50 years later

 

[peter_vii]

Never welded before. Complete welding idiot here ...

I'd like to be able to weld up tractor implements/ attachments, up to 1/4" steel I guess. Can this be done with 110V power? Or 220V? Is MIG what I should be looking into? Is it OK to buy the recommended welder at Home Depot/ Lowe's?

I'd only be welding probably a few times a year at best.

Thank you

My vote is for stick all the way. The bigger the better. I got Miller Stick/Tig combo (Dynasty 200 SD), but I would just buy stick because that is what you'll use on the farm 90% of time.

TIG is nice to have for little things like your TV antenna or your wife's kitchen tools.

Besides, stick is easier/cheaper to learn.

Peter

 

[beppington]

My community ed welding class starts this Friday eve!

I have to bring gloves and a helmet; They provide everything else.

So, I bought the cheapest Home Depot helmet they sell, before going hog wild & buying a really good one. Will I even be able to see out of the HD one?

 

[ecoslik]

Then you'll start eyeing Plasma Cutters..........

.

Isn't that the truth!!! The plasma cutters sure are tempting. Can they be used to make saddle cuts in pipe?

Although I have always wanted to learn, I have never could justify not hiring out to professionals who can be much more productive/efficient while I go to work at my own paying jobs.

Last month, I sorta impulse bought a Lincoln 140 HD (small MIG ... only have used FCAW), and I worked along side a welder who was at the house helping with a project. I read the newly published Welding For Dummies and watched a few videos on YouTube, bought one at Northern Tool, and one came with the welder, plus the advice I received onsite. I can't be a judge of the quality of my work, but the welder who was at the house did not object to what I did although he did step-in to improve some of my work.

I just bought 5000' of pipe and have started on my own some 3 rail pipe fence additions and additional horse stalls. Since I don't have anything to make saddle cuts, I opted for square tube for the posts and can just use a chop saw for all the cuts and my new lil'Lincoln to weld it up. I calculated the fence project will require 600+ welds not including the stalls. I am hoping this will give me a chance to PRACTICE-PRACTICE-PRACTICE!

 

[Shield Arc]

Will I even be able to see out of the HD one?

Your hood / helmet really has nothing to do with seeing. You could cut a hole in a piece of cardboard if you wanted to. Your helmet is all about being comfortable on your head, and enough protection not to burn your neck, or let too many sparks into your ears.

Now picking the right lens, is the trick to seeing. Here is a chart to help you pick.

Here is a link to some very good quality lenses. Some people have compared these to the old O/A Cool Blue lenses that sell for between $400.00 and $500.00 on eBay. I suggest the gold lenses, I have a few, way better than the cheap China glass your local welding supply carries!

Welding Lenses - Phillips Safety -- Laser Safety Glasses | Radiation Protective Eyewear | Bifocal Safety Glasses | Lampworking Glasses |

 

[oldyellr]

My community ed welding class starts this Friday eve!

I have to bring gloves and a helmet; They provide everything else.

So, I bought the cheapest Home Depot helmet they sell, before going hog wild & buying a really good one. Will I even be able to see out of the HD one?

I started dabbling in stick welding many years ago and I'm still an amateur. A couple of years ago I bought an cheap auto-darkening helmet and it made the biggest improvement ever in my attempts at welding. You can get one from Harbor Freight for $50. I really don't see how a $500 one would work any better.

 

[beppington]

I started dabbling in stick welding many years ago and I'm still an amateur. A couple of years ago I bought an cheap auto-darkening helmet and it made the biggest improvement ever in my attempts at welding. You can get one from Harbor Freight for $50. I really don't see how a $500 one would work any better.

That skull model sorta says, "I'm a bad welder; Look how bad I've already burned myself." :laughing:

Thanks for the info! I believe I will head across town to my local Harbor Freight, & just return the 10 or 12 dollar Home Depot model I bought (but haven't opened).

 

[gauthier]

Like said,its about whats in the part you see through,theres different shade lenses and clear lens to protect that lens,theres wide view and regular view sizes of the part you see through,you get that part right and a cheap hood is all you need,you'll see when you go to the class.

In my opinion its better to get a regular wide view hood[non auto darkening],than a cheap auto darkening one,good auto darkening hood will cost you several hundred.

Also,if you need reading glasses to read,you'll need to either wear glasses under hood or get a cheater lens to go in the hood.

 

[beppington]

Update: I just completed my 5-day community ed "small arc welding" class.

Very interesting class, & I feel like I get the gist of some (most?) welding processes now ... but not sure exactly what to buy :confused2:

For now I think I really only care about welding up to say 1/4" steel, for tractor implements, utility trailer mods, etc. I was most impressed by the welds produced by the class' Lincoln SP-135T MIG (gas shielded arc) welder, used with mixed gas (75% Argon & 25% CO2 ... I think?).

It appears that the SP-135T is no longer made, & my instructor seemed reluctant to get into recommending a specific make/ model for me.

So ... what make/ model do you think would do the trick for me?

Keep in mind, I'm never gonna be a pro welder, who can tweak to perfection a difficult-to-set-right welder, but I'm a particular guy & I really liked the nice, smooth welds the Argon/ CO2 gas made. It seemed easy to make good welds without me being an expert. I could spend a grand if needed, but $500 would be a lot better target. $1,500 can't happen.

Oh, & it really needs to be 110V since I don't have reasonable access to 220V.

Thanks again for your opinions ...

 

[k0ua]

Lincoln 140C about $700 or Hobart handler 140. maybe 525 at some places, sometimes less.. both 115 Volt the lincoln 140C is continous adjustable, the hobart is not. the Lincoln 140T is "tap" adjustable as is the Hobart. good enough for most people apparently. But some say the continious is better. at getting the exact right heat you need. The wirefeed is fully adjustable on all of them. the Miller 140 auto, sets everything "automagicly" you just look up what size metal in a chart, then set the wire feed speed, it sets the heat to go with it. it is under a grand most places. dont forget the tank cost tho. for any of them. you have either rental or exchange. all three mentioned come with the regulator and hoses. I think all 3 are good, but what do I know, I dont have either.. I have an Everlast Stick welder. PA160.. and I am enjoying it.. $269
and thats it. I am getting better every day.
James K0UA

 

[Chilly807]

Well, either the Miller or Lincoln offerings in 110v are very good machines. I've had personal experience with the Miller, I had a 135 when they still made it, have the 180 version now.

Be careful which Lincoln you buy, if you go that route. They make several (at least 2 I know of) some are box store versions, others are more "filled out" with capabilities.

There are lots of good options out there, those are only two.

Sean

 

[k0ua]

Chilly the 140T is what you will find in the "Big box stores" I would rather have the 140C, It is quite a bit more money, but I think it is worth it or the Miller 140 Autoset. I you wanted to go really cheap, you could try the Northern Tool 135
James K0UA

 

[beppington]

Looks like I could get a Millermatic 140 Auto-Set for about $690 new.

Or a Lincoln 140 HD is $560 (incl tax) at my Home Depot.

Is the Miller worth an extra $130?

I assume the Home Depot model is one to avoid.

I have yet to determine where to get the gas & its cost.

Edit: The term "Auto-Set" has this noob intrigued. Prob worth it for me for the extra $130?

 

[Chilly807]

I tend to agree with you. The Autoset feature on my Miller 180 is pretty much all that gets used these days. I was a believer after the first inch of weld I ran with it, was skeptical up 'til then.

Beppington, you may want to leave a little room in the budget for an AC/DC stick (used) if you can get access to 220V power.

For the size implements you'll have with the 3940 any of the 110V machines is going to be on the light side. It might mean adding a 220V plug in your garage, or even an external one (weather permitting), but I don't regret going that way. I do regret selling the 135 though, it was a great machine in it's own right. The 180 is good, but I can't do as pretty a job with it for some reason.

It was ok on stuff up to 1/4 inch if you were careful, 5/16 with lots of prep work, like vee-ing out all the joints, and I was still pushing the limits then. Beyond that and they're out of their depth.

I'd hate to see you break a critical weld, they just don't have the power to give you the penetration you need for heavier stock (5/16 and heavier).

Again, it depends on what you're going to be welding. I've welded with the 110v machine on 1/4 inch steel with a fair bit of confidence that it would hold, and it has. I've also welded chainsaw mufflers on the other end of the spectrum, again with good results.

Glad you enjoyed the course, it's a real eye-opener for a lot of people once they realize that welding isn't as easy as some make it look. Did you get a chance to do any out-of-position welding, like verticals or overheads?

Sean

 

[k0ua]

Beppington, If you can find the Miller 140 Autoset for 690, you probably should buy it. Thats how I would go if I was in the market for a 115V Mig. Hard to go wrong with Miller, what with the dealer network and good rep, Resale value would be good also.
James K0UA

 

[beppington]

Beppington, you may want to leave a little room in the budget for an AC/DC stick (used) if you can get access to 220V power.

I have this $1,000 max budget in mind, just because blasting into the world of welder ownership at say 2 or 3 grand would scare me! After taking the $500-$1000 leap (looking more like a grand now) maybe I'll feel differently & be ready to expand within a year or so.

For the size implements you'll have with the 3940 any of the 110V machines is going to be on the light side. It might mean adding a 220V plug in your garage, or even an external one (weather permitting), but I don't regret going that way. I do regret selling the 135 though, it was a great machine in it's own right. The 180 is good, but I can't do as pretty a job with it for some reason.

I have no doubt you're right, but I think a grand (& 110V) is gonna be my limit, for now.

It was ok on stuff up to 1/4 inch if you were careful, 5/16 with lots of prep work, like vee-ing out all the joints, and I was still pushing the limits then. Beyond that and they're out of their depth.

I'd hate to see you break a critical weld, they just don't have the power to give you the penetration you need for heavier stock (5/16 and heavier).

Again, it depends on what you're going to be welding. I've welded with the 110v machine on 1/4 inch steel with a fair bit of confidence that it would hold, and it has. I've also welded chainsaw mufflers on the other end of the spectrum, again with good results.

Understood, & thanks for the add'l info. I'm willing & ready to read whatever ya'll care to write on the subject.

Glad you enjoyed the course, it's a real eye-opener for a lot of people once they realize that welding isn't as easy as some make it look. Did you get a chance to do any out-of-position welding, like verticals or overheads?

No we sure didn't. All the little test welding we got to do was done on a small welding table with the scrap pieces sitting nicely right in front of us. No weird angles or positions.

You're right: The instructor demonstrated TIG welding aluminum, & made it look very easy, excellent looking weld ... & I had welded enough with the one-handed MIG & the plasma cutter before that demo to know he is very skilled.

 

[Chilly807]

Looks like I could get a Millermatic 140 Auto-Set for about $690 new.

Or a Lincoln 140 HD is $560 (incl tax) at my Home Depot.

Is the Miller worth an extra $130?

I assume the Home Depot model is one to avoid.

I have yet to determine where to get the gas & its cost.

Edit: The term "Auto-Set" has this noob intrigued. Prob worth it for me for the extra $130?

Check Lincoln's web-site, they list both the SP140-T and the Power Mig 140-C. There's a difference in construction (I'm told), and general quality. As far as I know, the C is the better machine. The Miller is equal to it in all respects in my opinion, but I could be wrong.

Be careful that the model you get is compatible with gas, some are flux-core wire only.

The selectable auto-set feature means you set the welder for the wire thickness you're using, then simply turn one knob to set the metal thickness. Then you weld. It's that simple. However, the parameter chart comes on the side cover of the welder too, and you can play with manual settings if you want. I think the 140 Miller allows you to add a spool gun for aluminum , the Lincoln does too I think. Max thickness with 110v in aluminum is about 1/8 inch, the 220v version goes up to 1/4.

Hobart makes a good machine for the money, too. I'd feel comfortable buying any one of the three.

Again, there are other good machines out there, I'm not familiar with them.

I would recommend buying from a welding supply store, they know the machines best, and can service after the sale.

Sean

 

[Chilly807]

I have this $1,000 max budget in mind, just because blasting into the world of welder ownership at say 2 or 3 grand would scare me! After taking the $500-$1000 leap (looking more like a grand now) maybe I'll feel differently & be ready to expand within a year or so.

Sounds like a good approach, as I recall the 135 with a gas bottle (not leased) and a helmet set me back just about $1000 about 5 years ago. In the US you should be able to do that today with no trouble. Best part is, like James said they hold their value better than some others over time, and if you decide to pick up a stick down the road, normally $100-$150 will get you one.


I had welded enough with the one-handed MIG & the plasma cutter before that demo to know he is very skilled.

Two hands makes a huge difference in steady, I always use two now if I can, the AD helmet makes it a bit easier.