Well pressure Switch question

[Valveman]

The relief valve on water heaters is usually set for 150 PSI. Most well pumps cannot build 150 PSI and would not be able to utilize that relief valve. But some can build 120-140 PSI, which could blow up a 100 PSI rated water pressure tank. I use a 75 PSI relief valve with any 40/60 pressure switch. It is good to keep the tank from exploding. But the main reason is to dump some water to keep the pump cool in case the pressure switch does not shut the pump off at 60 like it should as in this case. Yes you can run a pump against a closed valve without hurting anything. But if no water is let out it for some time it will boil around the motor, destroying the pump/motor and possibly melting any plastic well casing.

 

[BukitCase]

Just remember; when you reset your cut-in pressure/air pad, this MUST be done with system OFF and tank WATER open to atmosphere - your plumber would've mentioned this if he's any good, but it's an easy thing for inexperienced people to forget. Generally the air pad should be 10 psi BELOW the cut in setting (a 40-60 psi setting should have air only at 30 psi) ... Steve

 

[Egon]

The relief valve on water heaters is usually set for 150 PSI. Most well pumps cannot build 150 PSI and would not be able to utilize that relief valve. But some can build 120-140 PSI, which could blow up a 100 PSI rated water pressure tank. I use a 75 PSI relief valve with any 40/60 pressure switch. It is good to keep the tank from exploding. But the main reason is to dump some water to keep the pump cool in case the pressure switch does not shut the pump off at 60 like it should as in this case. Yes you can run a pump against a closed valve without hurting anything. But if no water is let out it for some time it will boil around the motor, destroying the pump/motor and possibly melting any plastic well casing.

With water heaters the problem may be a heater that does not shut off and creates steam.

 

[wawajake]

Just remember; when you reset your cut-in pressure/air pad, this MUST be done with system OFF and tank WATER open to atmosphere - your plumber would've mentioned this if he's any good, but it's an easy thing for inexperienced people to forget. Generally the air pad should be 10 psi BELOW the cut in setting (a 40-60 psi setting should have air only at 30 psi) ... Steve

Actually my experienced plumber volunteered to set the pressure tank air pressure while he had the tank empty, but my portable air compressor I had lent to my neighbor, so I told him I would do it myself next week.

 

[repete]

Late into this conversation I know... Sorry.

How many GPM is your well capable of producing? Let's say your well is capable of 4 GPM. It is entirely possible to have a pump that is capable of 20 GPM and under a water demand may in fact run your well casing dry. To eliminate the overpump possibility, there is frequently a restrictor in the line from the well to the system, is that what the blue handled valve is to perform or is the (for lack of better terms) "flow restrictor" at the well itself?

One of my wells is capable of 10 GPM maximum flow per well log by driller. I free flow from the pump only 10 GPM by restricting the flow with a gate valve and secure the gate valve handle so it cannot be moved or adjusted. I then flow to the pressure tank with the pressure control switch attached to the manifold. My line from the well may, and likely does, exceed the 60 PSI switch pressure but ultimately I am concerned with the pressure in the tank itself.

 

[wawajake]

Thanks for input Repete.... but as seen above the problem was identified and solved. of note.. a very well respected Well company replaced rhe well pump 2 years ago and my system worked great for over a year and a half, but my high iron/ mineral content bit me in butt of late and constricted a valve that was actually not necessary ( see above earlier resolve described) so all is good now. I imagine lessons learned for many .

 

[Valveman]

Thanks for input Repete.... but as seen above the problem was identified and solved. of note.. a very well respected Well company replaced rhe well pump 2 years ago and my system worked great for over a year and a half, but my high iron/ mineral content bit me in butt of late and constricted a valve that was actually not necessary ( see above earlier resolve described) so all is good now. I imagine lessons learned for many .

I know you don't want to hear this. But that same iron/mineral that clogged the valve will just as easily clog the pressure switch itself. Just like you saw last time the pressure will increase to as much as the pump can produce. If is doesn't blow a line or your regular "water well pressure tank", it will cause the pump and/or plastic casing to melt. A 10 dollar pressure relief valve anywhere in your piping system is all it takes to prevent catastrophes like that. But I won't say it again.

 

[wawajake]

My God Valveman, as much as I appreciate the advice, why does asking for advice then become a pissing match to see who knows better at tBN often. You saw 3 ft of my plumbing system and assumed I and my eventual plumber were not taking into account my pressure vessel capabilities, the new well pump , the new pressure switch and new clean nipples , and you assume to know what is 2 ft out of sight over by my sophisticated Laars high efficiency boiler heating system and on demand hot water, installed 8 yrs ago with pressure relief and pressure reducing valves from what I can see. ( but my plumber would know and understand) ......so thanks for your thousand pressure tank installs and I appreciate your attempt to warn me, but there is no need to take a holier than thou attitude now.

 

[LouNY]

If a person is worried about over pumping a well you can get a pressure that will operate just like your normal
30-50 PSI or 40-60PSI switch but also has a low pressure cutout function which will shut a pump down of low pressure.
This will help protect against over pumping as well as ruptured lines or other devices after the switch.

 

[repete]

If a person is worried about over pumping a well you can get a pressure that will operate just like your normal
30-50 PSI or 40-60PSI switch but also has a low pressure cutout function which will shut a pump down of low pressure.
This will help protect against over pumping as well as ruptured lines or other devices after the switch.

I suppose that would work but my wife would likely be irritated if the well shut down due to having a sprinkler on while doing a load of laundry and flushing a toilet. Best she just gets low pressure and volume due to the 10GPM limit.

I guess there are a number of ways to skin this cat but I will opt for not cavitating my pump as my over volume shutoff.