What do you drive for a truck?

/ What do you drive for a truck? #321  
Nothing rust here in the SF Bay Area… plenty of rust free cars in junk yards because not passing smog check or back fees…


Man it must be like paradise there cause the crap you CA folks put up with is beyond the scope of understanding.
 
/ What do you drive for a truck? #322  
The good is very good but the bad is getting worse and spreading.

California always had a great car culture but many of my old car friends have left… can’t buy the paint they want or chrome and the taxes and annual fees are very high…
 
/ What do you drive for a truck? #323  
Nothing rust here in the SF Bay Area… plenty of rust free cars in junk yards because not passing smog check or back fees…

That's odd. When lived in SoCal things sure rusted.

Okay, maybe not like in the rust belt, but the vehicles that lived by the beach were rustier than what I've seen in Colorado - where they use that evil magnesium chloride.
 
/ What do you drive for a truck? #324  
The Ford 10-speed has had shifting problems since 2017. Son bought a 2019 that shortly encountered problems with it down-shifting, often at highway speed. Other times it either would not up-shift, or if/when it did it slammed up into the next range.

He took it back to the dealer for repair MANY times with his complaint. Dealer simply said it needed a 'software update'. That was pure BS; that did nothing at all. Buy-back attempts was a waste of breath. Dealer did not want the truck back under any circumstances.

He finally took it to a certified transmission shop who told him that there was no known fix. Only remedy was to replace it, at a cost of around $7K.

It seems that not all Ford 10-speeds have that shifting problem. Some do, some don't. Son's only fix was to trade the 2017 in at a very high loss. I'm in the market for a newer pickup, but not Fords newer than a 2017. In fact, I'd prefer no 10-speeds at all.
Again, are we talking about the 10R80 that's in the F-150 and similar SUV's, that has known issues, or the 10R140 that's in the F-250 and is similar to the Allison?

My daughter has a 2019 Ford Edge that also has a surging transmission.
 
/ What do you drive for a truck? #325  
Are y'all high? One of the best things to happen to Ford and GM is the 10R80/10L80/10L90. Any given vehicle with a 10R80 will easily outperform the same vehicle with a 6R80. The gear spread in a 6R80 is barely better than an old 4 speed other than its aggressive 1st gear. A 8L90 has nothing on a 10L80, and especially a 10L90. I feel that you're biasing your favorite brands and looking to take shots at Ford. People have run deep single digit times with stock 10R80's. Faster than the times the ZF has produced. They are far from weak.

If we want to call spades, spades, and keep it real, maybe GEN3 Hemi is a POS. Lets see, it mods like ass even in 392 ci forum. How pathetic are the #'s it makes for an engine with a 4.09" bore. That's approaching a LS7's bore. I mean you can make more N/A HP with a factory sealed, 307 ci, GEN3/GEN4 Coyote than you can a H/C/I 6.4L GEN3 Hemi. H/C/I/bolton GEN4 LS, and GEN5 LT blows H/C/I/bolton GEN3 Hemi out the water. It takes bewst's to make a GEN3 Hemi run real hard. On top of that the 5.7L Hemi's have a major oiling issue. At idle they starve the cam of oil, and over time the cam lobes, and lifter rollers will start to eat each other if you idle them too much. I feel that used police Chargers won't be as wise an investment as the old, reliable P71 Crown Vics. I know someone with a 14 Ram 1500 who's replaced his lifters twice in 150K miles. With GM their DOD lifters are crap, but with Dodge all their lifters are crap.

GM's AFM/DFM engines are clusterfooks. I mean what a chit show they've made, but GM keeps doubling down on the same crappy system, with the same crappy, collapsing lifters that they introduced in 05 with the LS4. Look, I love GM like I love Ford, but they do that BS. They let problems slide without fixing them, hoping that the warranty will expire before a problem happens. LS7 had faulty exhaust valve guides in 06, and they still had them in 15. WTF? GM took one of the most reliable engines ever in a GEN3 LS based engine, and made it very unreliable compared to its competition with the GEN4/GEN5 engines using DOD. And no, deactivating the AFM/DFM doesn't necessarily fix the issue. I know a guy who had a stock 16 Camaro SS who had a lifter take out his cam. I think he was at about 50K miles. It was a M6 car which means it didn't use AFM, but the hardware to run AFM is still in the engine. A LT1 is a LT1 regardless of what transmission it has. Deleting AFM will fix the issue, but to do so will cost you $2,300+ if you're budgeting, and taking the cheap route, and you're capable, and willing to do the labor yourself. I know another guy who bought a new 21 Silverado LT Z71, and GM had to buy him a new L83 at only 3,100 miles due to DFM issues. That is some BS. At least it wasn't 36,001 miles.

Fords biggest issue has long been their timing setup. Going back to 5.4L 3V the cam phasers like to start to go bad fairly regularly. Not quite the death sentence for an engine like poor oiling, and collapsed lifters, but not something that you want to allow to go on for too long before getting them fixed. Ford seems to have fixed most of their cam phaser issues with the 21+ engines. Your GEN3 F150 Coyotes can burn excessive oil due to the factory plasma line cylinders having too rough a finish that doesn't allow the rings to seal properly. Time/hours on the engine often times fixes this issue as the rings start to wear into the cylinders well, but also many have had excellent results fixing this with about 2 oil changes that use a moly treatment.

All OEM's have their problem area's. You can't have your cake and eat it too. You want things faster, more powerful, more fuel efficient, but then you want it more reliable? You must be from perfectland. Here in real world things rarely work like that. These modern vehicles can be pretty reliable, but you have to maintain them properly. Regardless of brand change your F'in oil at no more than 5K intervals, and that's assuming your running a synthetic. We've now got oil being used for way more things than lubrication, and in complicated components with much tighter tolerances than were in vehicles 20+ years ago. Fords cam phasers (and other OEM's with VVT) need oil. Even your 5.4L 3V Tritons are pretty damn reliable if you keep it maintained with frequent OCI's using quality oil and filter. GM and Fiats lifters that collapse to deactivate your cylinders use oil as hydraulic fluid to collapse them. Keep your oil clean, and don't let it stretch out to being dirty and broken down. You don't need dirty oil getting into these complicated components that have tight tolerance in them. Same with a 10R80/10L80/10R140. They aren't unreliable in and of themselves, but there is a good bit going on in them, and there's not much clearance in them. The valves in the valve body getting stuck from trash in the fluid is the most common trouble issue with them. You want to make them have the best chance for being a trouble free transmission, then drop the pan at 30K miles, put a new filter in it, and I recommend adding a pan with a drain, and every 2-3 oil changes just drain the transmission pan and put new fluid in it to keep fresh fluid being cycled through it. When you change the hydraulic fluid/transmission fluid for the first time in your shiny new tractor do you not notice some particles and glitter there? If your tractor has a screen in the transmission how does it look on the first change? There's a bunch of moving metal that has to wear into itself so after it's broke in well then change the fluid, filter, and clean the screen. Same with a new 10 speed Ford or GM trannies. I'm not saying flush it, but when everything is broken in well, clean the trash, and undesirable particles out of your advanced, modern transmission. Having to maintenance the 10R80 more than say a 4R100 or 6R80 is a bummer, but the benefits of a 10R80 way outweigh their negatives.
 
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/ What do you drive for a truck? #326  
I think I will just keep driving what I have.
 
/ What do you drive for a truck? #327  
Got to “are y’all high” and moved on.
 
/ What do you drive for a truck? #330  
Are y'all high? One of the best things to happen to Ford and GM is the 10R80/10L80/10L90. Any given vehicle with a 10R80 will easily outperform the same vehicle with a 6R80. The gear spread in a 6R80 is barely better than an old 4 speed other than its aggressive 1st gear. A 8L90 has nothing on a 10L80, and especially a 10L90. I feel that you're biasing your favorite brands and looking to take shots at Ford. People have run deep single digit times with stock 10R80's. Faster than the times the ZF has produced. They are far from weak.

If we want to call spades, spades, and keep it real, maybe GEN3 Hemi is a POS. Lets see, it mods like ass even in 392 ci forum. How pathetic are the #'s it makes for an engine with a 4.09" bore. That's approaching a LS7's bore. I mean you can make more N/A HP with a factory sealed, 307 ci, GEN3/GEN4 Coyote than you can a H/C/I 6.4L GEN3 Hemi. H/C/I/bolton GEN4 LS, and GEN5 LT blows H/C/I/bolton GEN3 Hemi out the water. It takes bewst's to make a GEN3 Hemi run real hard. On top of that the 5.7L Hemi's have a major oiling issue. At idle they starve the cam of oil, and over time the cam lobes, and lifter rollers will start to eat each other if you idle them too much. I feel that used police Chargers won't be as wise an investment as the old, reliable P71 Crown Vics. I know someone with a 14 Ram 1500 who's replaced his lifters twice in 150K miles. With GM their DOD lifters are crap, but with Dodge all their lifters are crap.

GM's AFM/DFM engines are clusterfooks. I mean what a chit show they've made, but GM keeps doubling down on the same crappy system, with the same crappy, collapsing lifters that they introduced in 05 with the LS4. Look, I love GM like I love Ford, but they do that BS. They let problems slide without fixing them, hoping that the warranty will expire before a problem happens. LS7 had faulty exhaust valve guides in 06, and they still had them in 15. WTF? GM took one of the most reliable engines ever in a GEN3 LS based engine, and made it very unreliable compared to its competition with the GEN4/GEN5 engines using DOD. And no, deactivating the AFM/DFM doesn't necessarily fix the issue. I know a guy who had a stock 16 Camaro SS who had a lifter take out his cam. I think he was at about 50K miles. It was a M6 car which means it didn't use AFM, but the hardware to run AFM is still in the engine. A LT1 is a LT1 regardless of what transmission it has. Deleting AFM will fix the issue, but to do so will cost you $2,300+ if you're budgeting, and taking the cheap route, and you're capable, and willing to do the labor yourself. I know another guy who bought a new 21 Silverado LT Z71, and GM had to buy him a new L83 at only 3,100 miles do to DFM issues. That is some BS. At least it wasn't 36,001 miles.

Ford biggest issue gas long been their timing setup. Going back to 5.4L 3V the cam phasers like to start to go bad fairly regularly. Not quite the death sentence for an engine like poor oiling, and collapsed lifters, but not something that you want to allow to go on for too long before getting them fixed. Ford seems to have fixed most of their cam phaser issues with the 21+ engines. Your GEN3 F150 Coyotes can burn excessive oil due to the factory plasma line cylinders having too rough a finish that doesn't allow the rings to seal properly. Time/hour on the engine often times fixes this as things wear into themselve, but also many have had excellent results fixing this with about 2 oil changes that use a moly treatment.

All OEM's have their problem area's. You can't have your cake and eat it too. You want things faster, more powerful, more fuel efficient, but then you want it more reliable? You must be from perfectland. Here in real world things rarely work like that. These modern vehicles can be pretty reliable, but you have to maintain them properly. Regardless of brand change your F'in oil at no more than 5K intervals, and that's assuming your running a synthetic. You've got oil being used for way more things, and things with much tighter tolerances than were in vehicles 20+ years ago. Fords cam phasers (and other OEM's with VVT) need oil. Even your 5.4L 3V Tritons are pretty damn reliable if you keep it maintained with frequent OCI's using quality oil and filter. GM and Fiats lifters that collapse to deactivate your cylinders use oil as hydraulic fluid to collapse them. Keep your oil clean, and don't let it stretch out to being dirty and broken down. You don't need dirty oil getting into these complicated components that have tight tolerance in them. Same with a 10R80/10L80/10R140. They aren't unreliable in and of themselves, but their is a good bit going on in them, and there's nit much clearance in them. The valves in the valve body getting stuck from trash in the fluid is the most common trouble issue with them. You want to make them have the best chance for being a trouble free transmission is to drop the pan at 30K miles, put a new filter in it, and I recommend adding a pan with a drain, and every 2-3 oil changes just drain the transmission pan and put new fluid in it to keep fresh fluid being cycled through it. When you change the hydraulic fluid/transmission fluid for the first time in your shiny new tractor do you not notice some particles and glitter there? If your tractor has a screen in the transmission how does it look on the first change? There's a bunch of moving metal that has to wear into itself so after it's broke in good then change the fluid/filter/clean the screen. Same with a new 10 speed Ford or GM trannies. I'm not saying flush it, but when everything is broken in good clean the trash out of your advanced transmission. Having to maintenance the 10R80 more than say a 4R100 or 6R80 is a bummer, but the benefits of a 10R80 way outweigh then negatives.
Good write-up. Very good!
But, I haven't gotten the feeling that this thread was simply to beat up of Ford. My all-time favorite pickup was a Ford F150. And that's comparing it to Chevy and Dodge pickups that I've owned. Now... my favorite car was a '69 Dodge Cornet RT, chosing from some 75 or more cars that I've owned over the years. I haven't owned that car for some 30 years now, but I still keep a picture of it on my 'puter screen.
So, please don't feel that this thread was simply to beat on Ford. It's been very informative.
 
/ What do you drive for a truck? #331  
California always had a great car culture but many of my old car friends have left… can’t buy the paint they want or chrome and the taxes and annual fees are very high…
I'm about as far from California as you can get (both geographically and culturally) and still be in the continental U.S., but what car culture we had seems to be fading as well. Go to a car show, and it's mostly boomers with maybe some older Gen X'ers, and most of the cars shown are mid-70s or older. I think a big part of it is that you can count on the fingers of one hand the number of 70s/80s cars that didn't suck, and there just wasn't much for younger people to get excited about. Putting a fart can muffler and undercarriage neon lights on your Civic or Suburu doesn't quite cut it.
 
/ What do you drive for a truck? #332  
Not technically a truck, since there's no cargo area, but this one is fun to drive.
DSCN4502.JPG
 
/ What do you drive for a truck? #334  
I tried for years to figure out a way to own one of those for hay hauling. Came close to buying a few times, but I always hit the same “wall”.

1. Can’t find long wheelbase for 24’ flatbed. They are pretty rare.
2. GVWR & GCWR seem impossible to get a handle on.
3. Parts/repairs seem harder than typical commercial trucks I own. Not many repair shops have interest in working on them.

One guy in my area made a pretty nice 16’ dump on one and it suits him well.

Other than that, I’d love to own one. :giggle:
 
/ What do you drive for a truck? #335  
Right now my ride just got a new alternator & battery.....................but .........now the R headlight and r turn signal don't work?????? Well, back to the guys that are suppose to
2075.JPG
069.JPG
know what they are doing??? It's a 1999 F-250 and quite faithful.

BTW, I had the previlege of driving the 6x6 in the Army......"Twas fun .....in peace time.
 
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/ What do you drive for a truck? #336  
I tried for years to figure out a way to own one of those for hay hauling. Came close to buying a few times, but I always hit the same “wall”.

1. Can’t find long wheelbase for 24’ flatbed. They are pretty rare.
2. GVWR & GCWR seem impossible to get a handle on.
1. Lengthening or shortening a frame like that is easy.
2. My Unimogs weigh 16,000 lbs. And the GVWR is also 16,000 lbs. Coincidentally, so is the towing capacity.

As Alfred E. Neuman would say, why worry?
 
/ What do you drive for a truck? #337  
1. Lengthening or shortening a frame like that is easy.

Really? I just did outer frame rails on my International and it not easy.
2. My Unimogs weigh 16,000 lbs. And the GVWR is also 16,000 lbs. Coincidentally, so is the towing capacity.

As Alfred E. Neuman would say, why worry?

I only worry because the Commiewealth of Pennsylvania worries a LOT.
You get pulled over by a storm trooper, I mean state trooper, you better have the right papers and have a proper truck.
 
/ What do you drive for a truck? #339  
Thing I don’t like about lengthening is it also means sliding the tandems back, extending air lines, electric lines and prop shaft. Also not crazy about splicing the frame that way.

Best to find a long wheelbase unit, but they are not easy to find.

Then there’s the wacky GVWR specs and kind of low power rating.
 
/ What do you drive for a truck? #340  
Then there’s the wacky GVWR specs and kind of low power rating.
Those ratings can be an interesting subject.

But realistically, most any law enforcement would go by what the axles and tires are rated at, not what the official GVWR is.

Heck, I haven't looked into it, but my so-called 5-ton supposedly weighs about 40,000. I did put a bracket for a SWM triangle on it, though. Because it isn't registered and sure isn't fast.
 

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