What do YOU use to cut metal roof panels?

[Industrial Toys]

I never heard of the backwards blade, just carbide. I guess a blade cuts the material and an abrasive wheel burns through it. I don't think you want that heat to mess up the enamel. Plasma is just out of the question. Hard to go up and down the ribs anyway.

My Roofer had this really long, expensive looking, hand held, electric snips type of tool.

 

[PILOON]

Well I did more than a few metal roofs.
One time I came across a blade that had no teeth, no carbide, just a whole bunch of slits. Looked like an unfinished blade.
Well great surprise! That blade did the best job of anything I had ever tried.
Guess you might call it a 'friction blade'. OK I made little curls of metal and slightly discolored the last 1/8 " of roofing but by golly did a great job.
Problem is I rarely see it in Box stores so U need to search for them.

To look at them. they have slits every inch or so with no teeth, much like they were unfinished production carbide blades.
If U find some, try and U will be amazed.
OK, noisy but cutting metal roofing what do U expect.

 

[YLee Kioti]

I used a 4.5" angle grinder with cutoff blades to cut the metal panels for my equipment shed.

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Good luck

+1 we also used same to roof a friends house after Harvey.
Buy bulk at HF and go to town.....!

 

[s219]

I use an electric nibbler -- my dad gave me his old one, an Ingersol-Rand industrial nibbler from the 1980s. It's going to need a sharpening soon, and the cord is in rough shape, but it cuts great and is fast.

I was told using any sort of rotating saw blade causes two problems. First, the raw edges will be more prone to rust. The high speed and heat will temper the edges and make them very prone to rust. Snips or nibbler will polish the edge when they cut, and actually ward off rust. Second, the combination of heat from the cutting and throwing of hot chips or abrasives can damage the galvanizing and paint on panels.

Last time I custom ordered metal roofing, the company said the warranty would be voided if any cuts were made with a saw. I found that odd since I ordered all the panels made to my specified length and had no cuts planned for that project, but I guess they wanted to make sure I knew the policy.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I cringe when I see guys cutting stuff and don't give a crap about where the metal goes. Typical construction attitude. Not my problem, here and now.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Starting a roof project, 29G 5 Rib panels and trim ordered. In the past, I've used an abrasive cutoff blade in a regular circular saw. Tin snips/shears are OK for small pieces and trim, but they don't work well for me for long cuts. Considering an air or electric nibbler or shear. I seem to recall some posts here about people using regular circular saw blades, but I'm not sure how well they would work.

So, what have YOU used?

I used harbor freight electric shear to cut all my barn metal.

 

[dstig1]

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Well, it does burn the cut edges a bit, but I'm not sure why it would be an issue for areas of the panel not cut. Then again, shears and nibblers leave an open metal edge too.

When i was considering doing a metal roof, i went directly to the factory for Metal Sales (a major manufacturer/supplier of metal panels in this area). One of their tech guys was kind enough to walk me through the general installation procedures and one of his key points was never to use any sort of saw to cut panels (shear/nibbler only). The dust or chips that come off hot end up embedding in the paint and damaging it, causing rust. And that was not covered by warranty. So I would agree with what the previous poster said about teh paint warranty. Now if it's a barn or shed and you don't care, then go crazy...

 

[jbradley]

I've used a circular saw with a carbide tipped blade. It does throw some metal shavings, though, so wear eye protection!!! It's significantly faster than an angle grinder with a cutting blade (which also throws small pieces of metal, so same caution above!) and tin snips, as well as being easier to use.

 

[YardBikeBob]

I use a regular cordless circular saw, cheap blades, and do not turn the blade backwards. Fastest method and good enough.

I have an electric HF nibbler. It works okay but the ribs make it slower. And you have to fight with the curled scrap in front of the nibbler. I suppose if I had to use it everyday I'd get better.

I also have tin snips but they are just a case of frustration. I have a manual nibbler and it works pretty good for touch up.

Would strongly recommend not using carbide tipped blades. Tried that once (blade backward) and those tips are some serious shrapnel when they come loose. And they will.

Gloves and eye/face protection advised. Long sleeve shirt wouldn't hurt either.

Sent from my SM-T377V using TractorByNet mobile app

 

[bcp]

Well I did more than a few metal roofs.
One time I came across a blade that had no teeth, no carbide, just a whole bunch of slits. Looked like an unfinished blade.
Well great surprise! That blade did the best job of anything I had ever tried.
Guess you might call it a 'friction blade'. OK I made little curls of metal and slightly discolored the last 1/8 " of roofing but by golly did a great job.
Problem is I rarely see it in Box stores so U need to search for them.

To look at them. they have slits every inch or so with no teeth, much like they were unfinished production carbide blades.
If U find some, try and U will be amazed.
OK, noisy but cutting metal roofing what do U expect.

I once had that kind of a blade. I could never get it to cut straight for more than about a foot. It would always curve to the right, no matter what. I suspect it got hotter on one side and warped into a shallow dish-shape.

Bruce