What have you done with/to your GC Series 2300, 2400, 1700 Tractor TODAY

[WranglerX]

Yes the factory turn signals on the outside of the ROPS are a risk. I am still pondering how to get them inboard without drilling a third hole in the ROPS which is frowned upon. The wires seem to be long enough to actually wrap around the ROPS bar to the inside, almost like it was planned. I would use one of the two bolt holes to put the wires to the inside but I think I need both bolts to hold the light secure. How did you do that?

Some weekend when it is raining I am thinking of some kind of clamping bracket to mount the light to the ROPS and using one of the two factory holes for the wiring. I'm kind of persistent on figuring out how to do those things (my fiance has another term for it) but I don't have a lot of fabricating tools beyond a dremel. If I start on it some Saturday morning, I'll figure out how to do it but so far, I haven't found a way in the 2 or 3 times I've spent a few minutes looking at it. But, I am open to suggestions and pictures of solutions!

Just swap them from left to right side and right to left side and use a couple of washers to space them out from ROPS so you don't pinch wires, and run wire down outside of ROPS and use a couple of ZIP ties to hold wires in place....

 

[kenmbz]

Man would that hurt in a roll over!

With Backhoe, I would not even fit between the lights.

 

[MoMower]

I just drilled holes for the light swap, but I have a backhoe so the washer idea takes up valuable real estate, but that is a superb idea.

Huge driveway parking area today, hauled about 12 yards of sod and moved 60 tons of modified.

 

[ProfJeff]

Just swap them from left to right side and right to left side and use a couple of washers to space them out from ROPS so you don't pinch wires, and run wire down outside of ROPS and use a couple of ZIP ties to hold wires in place....

Ah, washers or spacers, great idea, thanks for sharing. Because I spend so much time turned around to back down the darn hill and I use the right side of the ROPS as a hand hold, which is where the light wires run down, I am going to wrap the whole bar in some kind of foam so that I am not constantly grabbing the wires. Since we got significant rain today so that I can't work outside for several days -- washing some of my newly spread dirt down the hill grrrrrr **#&)@#$# and turning it into mud -- I'll post pics soon.

 

[MoMower]

Cleaned up from tree work and stump grinding for a customer today.

 

[MoMower]

Big food plot for a customer this morning

Then finally got to use my new Titan hiller at home. I used to spend a couple hours making rows by hand, was done in 5 minutes!

 

[MoMower]

Widened a drainage trench and placed #4 rock at a culvert for a customer this morning.

 

[MoMower]

Big garden, 30’x100’ today.

No finished shot....”image to big”

(That’s what she said)

 

[kenmbz]

Need help - GC1720 - I have a lot of trails that have 5-10 years of growth, including some 3-4" saplings and bushes.
I also need a mower that will do decent (not manicured) mowing and be able to go up close to the edge of trenches and planting areas.

I have been looking at 48" Flails (with hammers, not scoops or Y blades) and 4' and 5' rotary (brush hogs).
Only enough money for one. I do have a lawn tractor for most grass areas, though it is ancient and always needing fixes.

I have hundreds of feet of trenches, and thousands of feet of trails I need to be able to cut/clear.

Dead Ash saplings, honeysuckle, but can get most of the rocks out of the way.

Also on a slope, with 2" spacers on each rear wheel and comfortable going through woods with FEL and BH attached.

Worried the RC will be hard to maneuver in the woods.
Worried the Flail with get destroyed if I do hit anything big

Would need to brush cut and chainsaw the bigger stuff, understood.

Any thoughts?
The RC is a lot less money, but I don't want to buy twice and the lawn area, < 1 acre , would be nice if I did not have to use the lawn tractor, which is nearing end of life, with all the patches and band aids applied.

Close to 5 acres of woods.

 

[MoMower]

Need help - GC1720 - I have a lot of trails that have 5-10 years of growth, including some 3-4" saplings and bushes.
I also need a mower that will do decent (not manicured) mowing and be able to go up close to the edge of trenches and planting areas.

I have been looking at 48" Flails (with hammers, not scoops or Y blades) and 4' and 5' rotary (brush hogs).
Only enough money for one. I do have a lawn tractor for most grass areas, though it is ancient and always needing fixes.

I have hundreds of feet of trenches, and thousands of feet of trails I need to be able to cut/clear.

Dead Ash saplings, honeysuckle, but can get most of the rocks out of the way.

Also on a slope, with 2" spacers on each rear wheel and comfortable going through woods with FEL and BH attached.

Worried the RC will be hard to maneuver in the woods.
Worried the Flail with get destroyed if I do hit anything big

Would need to brush cut and chainsaw the bigger stuff, understood.

Any thoughts?
The RC is a lot less money, but I don't want to buy twice and the lawn area, < 1 acre , would be nice if I did not have to use the lawn tractor, which is nearing end of life, with all the patches and band aids applied.

Close to 5 acres of woods.

I just purchased a Betsco 48” flail for the same reasons. I have a wood lot that I’m turning into pasture and some trails to mow with it. Allegedly good up to 3” stuff with hammers installed.

I had the same concerns about room for a rotary mower and tail swing. My trails are 4-5’ wide.