What NOT TO do!!

   / What NOT TO do!! #31  
Soundguy said:
Hey.. I've seen too many bent lift arms to -not- pass on that advice... Lotsa people think if something has a blade or a bucket it can lift or push anything.

Soundguy


Unfortunate break for sure....


To be honest, I've done the same thing with my Jinma loader and it's designed such that if the load is beyond the loaders lifting capacity, it simply won't lift the object. I've put that to the test several times. Now, I suppose if I readjusted my lifting control, it may be possible to set the bypass high enough to break something.

I'm quessing the designer of your loader did the same thing but with the added torque of your tractor pushing the bucket against the stump is what pushed the loader past it's design limits. Unfortunately, many of the products being build by small businesses are often not desgined by engineers but instead machinists and other metal fabrication specialists. Don't get me wrong, these guys know their stuff but, an engineer will understand the cumulative loading of various components. Now, this loader could have been built by a large company, so my comment may not apply here but, one way or another either an engineer wasn't used or the design engineer could have done a better job.

The good news is that you broke the loader and not the bell housing of the tractor which has happened to others.
 
   / What NOT TO do!! #32  
It may have also been engineered for light duty.. not heavy duty.. etc. Stumping is hard work..

Soundguy
 
   / What NOT TO do!! #33  
I built my front loader subframe with a design safety factor 3, as prescribed for changeing (intermitting compress/pull) loads. The loader was cracked when i bought it, but i reinforced that as well.

The tipping cylinders are safeguarded by a pressure relief valve between top and bottom end of the cylinder pistons.

The torn off cylinder mount, that tube is strong enough if there wasnt a piece of sidewall torn out. If you make a new one, weld an additional plate on top of the cylnder mounting plates, sticking over the tube for an inch or so to get enough hold. On the other end, weld it on the tube sidewall so that it distributes the force over a longer distance of the tube. As it was now, the force has to be taken by the width of only 2 welds.
 
   / What NOT TO do!!
  • Thread Starter
#34  
Update;

I got a new loader frame for free. Great thanks a bunch.


Today guess what. It broke again in the VERY SAME PLACE. These loaders are JUNK. It broke moving a dirt pile around. I know forsure it should not have broke this time.


Its a Rays loader.
 
   / What NOT TO do!! #35  
One bad suggests a manufacturing problem. Two bad ones starts shifting the issue towards a customer problem. Perhaps you've chosen the wrong tool for the job?

//greg//
 
   / What NOT TO do!! #36  
In my estimation, a loader designed for a particular tractor should not break while using it for any pushing or lifting job on that tractor, if it does, it is not designed properly for that tractors power. They are supposed to lift and push stumps, rocks, dirt, or anything that happens to need pushed or lifted.
 
   / What NOT TO do!! #37  
I'd agree on everything but the stumps part.. stumps are anchored pretty darn good.

soundguy
 
   / What NOT TO do!! #38  
I have a Great Bend 220 FEL on my NT254 and it is very tough. I have used it on everything but pulling up trees. I think the best way is not to push it over and roll it out but to push it back and forth and then try to lift it out with a chain by rolling the bucket and lifting. Several attempts may do it. Just worry it out of the ground. Your tractor is the same size as mine so I know what you can and can't do.

By the way my tractor, which is a Jinma 254 branded NorTrac does have a differential in the front axle and is safe to use four wheel during turns. Mine is a 2001 year and since the 254 and 284 are the same I think yours has a differential also. Look in your parts manual.

I have not babied the tractor or FEL and it has done things I didn't think it would. There are things that it won't do and I back off and find another way. For one thing, you can point the bucket down and pull dirt or rock backwards but don't do it going forward. Going forward will just force the bucket down and into the ground and tear something up.

You may have better luck by using the 3pt hitch to lift the tree out of the ground with a drawbar between the trailing arms and moving forward in creeper gear. There again, there are limits and you need to realize when you are overdoing something.
 
   / What NOT TO do!! #39  
That Loader dont look to good , i have a 204 Nortrack , that has a much better loader on it , your tractor is to big for a loader , looks like that anyway to me , my 2 Cents anyway.
 
   / What NOT TO do!! #40  
Carld said:
You may have better luck by using the 3pt hitch to lift the tree out of the ground with a drawbar between the trailing arms and moving forward in creeper gear. There again, there are limits and you need to realize when you are overdoing something.

Mmm, if you try to do that you will probably end up doing a monster wheelie... IMHO it's usually safer to pull something like that using the drawbar, not the 3pt.
 

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