What's it like owning a zero turn?

[RG1]

The "name brand" mowers at big box stores are knock-offs. Under license, yes. But knockoffs nonetheless. Consider them as Murray's with trademark paint and decals. My JD dealer says they only permit this if/when the big box store store agrees to use John Deere trained assemblers. Otherwise, JD won't honor the warranty. I don't doubt other legitimate mower manufacturers have similar stipulations

If you only have $2500 to spend, save the extra money charged for the green and yellow paint job - and just buy a a Murray or equivalent 2nd or 3rd tier mower

But to your ZTR question: I spent $5500 on a first tier zero turn, and returned it for a refund after two hours. Without optional tires AND diff lock, it was useless for hillside work. Couldn't hold a straight line downhill, and reversing uphill was absolutely impossible. If you're just mowing flat ground though, a ZTR should be just fine (once you learn to actually make it go where you want it to)

//greg//

Your dealer is flat wrong.

They are the same exact machine, from the same assembly line. My local dealer was a friend of mine. A few years back he sold his dealership to a larger still JD dealer, and went to work as the area liaison between Lowe's and JD. He has been right to the plant to watch them all being built.

Your dealer is not alone in BS'ing folks though. Many do the same thing to help bump their own sales.

Also- A $5500 machine is nowhere near a "first tier" ZTR.

OP-
I have seen a bunch of misinformation in this thread so far regarding ZTR's and what they can or can't do. I run one for a living, and have for a long time. Turning uphill is the correct way to do it on a ZTR so that you keep the weight on the rear where the traction and power comes from. Holding the sticks in full reverse to try to gain traction once you lose it is also incorrect. The best thing is to let off both sticks to stop briefly and then start moving ahead slowly to gain traction again. Once the rear wheels break free, they rarely gain traction again without letting of first.

ZTR's are not the best for holding a hillside. The front being on casters wants to drift down hill, and learning how to combat that takes time if you want to do it safely and correctly.

Anyone wanting to buy one should demo several of them on their own place first.

The single most important thing to learn is where you can and can't go on one, and when. Running one for a few hours per week is not going to give you the seat time you need to learn that, especially when you are only mowing one property with one set of circumstances to deal with.

 

[RG1]

Not everyone can play golf & not everyone can drive a zero turn mower. That is why I suggest that anyone that has never used one, to try one out on there property before buying one.

Excellent advice.

 

[Midniteoyl]

I currently have been mowing with my John Deere L130 since 2004. I get worn out with no power steering mowing my 3.5 acres full of trees and obstacles. I'd be content with a new riding mower that has power steering, but they cant be bought for $2500 which is why I'm considering a zero turn. I've always had a traditional tractor style riding mower and never gave a thought to owning a zero turn until now. I'm thinking about buying a new John Deere Zero turn mower from Lowes. I dont want to spend more than $2500.


Based on my experience with the L130 riding mower the additional benefits of a zero turn are:

Zero turn pro's:
- Faster top speed
- Effortless turning
- No front spindles to wear out
- No steering gears to break
- No tie rods to break
- Exhaust is directed out the rear and away from you, no breathing fumes


Cons:
- Ugly, IMHO

What its like owning a zero turn mower? They seem like a simpler machine. Any common problems with them or other pros and cons?

You can look around, but they have 'near zero-turn' tradition lawn tractors now that make life much easier.

 

[Midniteoyl]

I have a 'Gizmow' ZTR that has a steering wheel connection via chains to the front wheels. It actually works pretty well, but the fellas that came up with it tried to break into the market right when the 'recession' hit and couldnt do it for very long. It is very, very well built, weighs over 1600lbs and cost $10k new. https://www.google.com/search?q=giz...BAcSwyQGstoC4CQ&ved=0CDQQsAQ&biw=1194&bih=557

Cub Cadet bought the technology and uses it in their RZT-S : RZT S Riders: Check Out These Easy-to-Handle Riding Lawn Mowers

 

[9973720wb19]

I have a 72" JD 997 Diesel and it's a beast. However, my mowing land is more of a field not a smooth lawn so now I use a JD 1600 WAM with 4 wheels. While Z mowers are fast, they are very bumpy because they have no shocks and the design of the wheels right under you. my 997's speed was a waist. I had to go easy or id be reared off the seat. IMO, if you have a smooth lawn you can not beat a Z mower, if you have rough field it does not work that well. I know Ferris makes a z mower with shocks but it will cost you and I don't know how well they work.

 

[EddieWalker]

I paid a little over 8 grand for my Scag Wildcat with a ft deck. I wanted the liquid cooled Kawasaki engine and feel that Scag is about as top of the line as you can get. It has two separate hydraulic drive motors, one for each tire. It has amazing traction and if it's dry out, I just stick to the ground, straight up, straight down, and most importantly, while going along the side of a steep slope. When I come across a street sign, I go from a steep slide slope, to spinning around the sign post, and then back to going along the slope. It's actually kind of fun!!!

Eddie

 

[RalphVa]

I mowed 4 to 5 acres of grass at the church property in NJ. After having done it with some Sears tractors and belly mowers, I asked them if we could get a zero turn mower. Bought a Scag. HUGE improvement. Those Sears tractors took 5 to 7 hours to mow the grass, having to often make about 4 or 5 passes around the trees to mow the grass around them. Had to use a push mower to trim some other places. With the Scag, it was a 3 hour job with no trimming needed by push mower.

Ralph

 

[OutbackL130]

Thanks for the replies. While my land is relatively flat there is a small tricky area where my land slopes off the road. The mower flexes hard through here and sometimes will lift a front wheel. I have to be careful not to get stuck. On a 50" wide mower it would take 3 passes 100' long. Also the ground by my pond was roughed up from horses and 4x4's. I once broke the front axle on my L130 running into a hidden rut back there.

I wonder how well the small tires on the front of ZTR's will handle bumps and uneven ground? Also I have noticed many ZTR's do not have an articulating front axle. Is that ever a problem?

 

[yelbike]

These are good reasons why I would try to test a ztr on your property before making a decision.

I didn't learn to like mine until my 3rd cutting which wasn't until 10 hours of seat time. I didn't get good ( not great) at slopes until my second season. Its a different driving experience, it takes time to get good at it. Not ten minutes either.

The best thing about my ztr, is it so fun to operate, I fight my wife and oldest son to mow the grass. So that really cut down my mowing time!

 

[greg_g]

Your dealer is flat wrong.

They are the same exact machine, from the same assembly line

Also- A $5500 machine is nowhere near a "first tier" ZTR.

Well, I actually can't speak for a big box ZTR, I've only owned the Ferris. I was citing what the JD dealer told me about the lawn tractors. For them - all ya gotta do at a big box store is lift the engine cover to see they're not the same engine. Those around here (Lowes) have Briggs engines, including their "top of the line D170. My X500 (purchased at a dealer) has a Kawasaki. And all you have to do is look at the foot pedal arrangement to see they don't have the same transmission either. Plus, diff lock is simply not available on a big box John Deere. No sir, they're not the same lawn tractor. Incorrect as it may turn out to be, I was extending that observation to the big box versus dealer ZTRs.

If you'd return to the context of the OP question, $5500 DOES buy you a first tier residential/consumer grade ZTR. Rather than argue off-topic, let's get back to helping the guy gather his info.

//greg//

 

[aczlan]

I was citing what the JD dealer told me about the lawn tractors. For them - all ya gotta do at a big box store is lift the engine cover to see they're not the same engine. Those around here (Lowes) have Briggs engines, including their "top of the line D170. My X500 (purchased at a dealer) has a Kawasaki. And all you have to do is look at the foot pedal arrangement to see they don't have the same transmission either. Plus, diff lock is simply not available on a big box John Deere. No sir, they're not the same lawn tractor. Incorrect as it may turn out to be, I was extending that observation to the big box versus dealer ZTRs.

You are comparing a Cadillac CTS-V to a Chevy Cruze if you compare a X500 series to a D100 series. Despite what the Deere dealer may say, if the model number is the same, its the exact same mower. The only models available at big box stores are the D100 series (which replaced the L100 series) and they are the exact same tractor as the same model sold at a Deere dealer.
Now, the Deere dealer will also have the X300 and X500 series machines which are a different class of machine (stronger, better transmission, engine, etc), but if they sell you a D100 series, it will be the same as the one at a big box store (although the one from the Deere dealer might have better setup/prep).

Aaron Z

 

[Midniteoyl]

They cost the same too..

Shop John Deere D130 22 HP V-Twin Hydrostatic 42-in Riding Lawn Mower with Briggs & Stratton Engine at Lowes.com

iconagequip.com | 2013 John Deere D130

Greenway Used Equipment | 2013 John Deere D130

John Deere D130 Lawn Tractors JohnDeere.Com

 

[lostcreekranch]

We bought our first ZT, a John Deere Z820-A, about 4 years ago from local John Deere Dealer that specializes in commercial mowing operations. Ours was a demo that had 25 hours on it but looked like it was brand new. Dealer gave all the incentives being offered on brand new ones then deducted another $2k from price. I had never used a ZT but my wife had so she did the test drive and gave a thumbs up. Dealer was laughing about this so I got on it and almost ran into our truck. Took me a couple of hours to get used to it and now would not be without one.

Traded in a JD GT-345 that had low hours and it's 5' x 8' trailer and got the Z820-A and and 6' x 12' trailer that can hauls the ZT or our Polaris Ranger.

Our Z820-A came with the 60" 7 Iron deck and large solid rubber front wheels. I have noticed that JD has gone back to smaller inflatable front tires on new units but don't have a clue why.

Side note, most dealers, that specialize in supporting commercial mowing, will have a grassy area that you can try out mowers instead of hauling one home only to not like it and return it.

 

[DK35vince]

When we first got a zero turn several years ago, my wife hated it. Hated it bad.
She had a hard time controlling it a first. After weeks of use she got better and better, now she races around the yard like she is on a go cart and loves mowing with a zero turn.
I had thousands of hours on skid steers that steered the same way as a zero turn, so I always felt right a home on the Z.

 

[MoKelly]

In my opinion, a zero turn mower is made to cut grass. Its sole purpose in life is to cut grass. It isn't meant to also plow your driveway, haul dirt in a trailer, move rocks or till the ground. It cuts grass and it does that quite efficiently and quickly.

You can go as slow or as fast as you like. As in a car, you don't have to move as fast as it can go. If you hit a bumpby patch .. go slower. If you have slopes, just be smart. It is not that hard to learn to control the machine --- just some practice. It is much much much easier to get good on a zero turn than to get good at golf! I will always have a zero turn to cut my grass. Get as best a machine as you can afford, maintain it and you will be in great shape for a long long time.

The critical things I have learned going from the suburbs to acreage is to (a) get the right machine for the job (b) get as commercial of a machine as you can afford and (c) maintain the machine as per the manuals. Anything else just seems to create problems, wasted time and extra money.

Good luck.

MoKelly

 

[RG1]

Well, I actually can't speak for a big box ZTR, I've only owned the Ferris. I was citing what the JD dealer told me about the lawn tractors. For them - all ya gotta do at a big box store is lift the engine cover to see they're not the same engine. Those around here (Lowes) have Briggs engines, including their "top of the line D170. My X500 (purchased at a dealer) has a Kawasaki. And all you have to do is look at the foot pedal arrangement to see they don't have the same transmission either. Plus, diff lock is simply not available on a big box John Deere. No sir, they're not the same lawn tractor. Incorrect as it may turn out to be, I was extending that observation to the big box versus dealer ZTRs.

If you'd return to the context of the OP question, $5500 DOES buy you a first tier residential/consumer grade ZTR. Rather than argue off-topic, let's get back to helping the guy gather his info.

//greg//

No, I can't let misinformation posted in a publicly viewed thread like this pass. What I said was that the same machine, whether it is a ZTR or tractor at a big box store, is the same exact machine found at the dealer.... when comparing apples to apples. You are not when you compare an X500 series to one of the entry level machines. A D170 at Lowe's is the same exact machine as a D170 at the dealers. A tier one machine is a top of the line commercial machine. You didn't differentiate between HO and Pro machines with your earlier statement, but most anyone who goes to look at new machines would take your statement the same way I did, and might think they are getting a top of the line Z at $5K, which they are not.

Yes, we want to help the OP, but we also need to be aware that others come here to read who may be reading this thread that never post, so we want to make sure they get the facts as accurately as we can when we discuss this stuff.

 

[RG1]

We bought our first ZT, a John Deere Z820-A, about 4 years ago from local John Deere Dealer that specializes in commercial mowing operations. Ours was a demo that had 25 hours on it but looked like it was brand new. Dealer gave all the incentives being offered on brand new ones then deducted another $2k from price. I had never used a ZT but my wife had so she did the test drive and gave a thumbs up. Dealer was laughing about this so I got on it and almost ran into our truck. Took me a couple of hours to get used to it and now would not be without one.

Traded in a JD GT-345 that had low hours and it's 5' x 8' trailer and got the Z820-A and and 6' x 12' trailer that can hauls the ZT or our Polaris Ranger.

Our Z820-A came with the 60" 7 Iron deck and large solid rubber front wheels. I have noticed that JD has gone back to smaller inflatable front tires on new units but don't have a clue why.

Side note, most dealers, that specialize in supporting commercial mowing, will have a grassy area that you can try out mowers instead of hauling one home only to not like it and return it.

The factory only uses the smaller tires up front on certain models like the newer 915B, but the M and R models along with all of the Z900A series uses the run flats up front. They are not solid rubber as you stated though. They are hollow with stiff sidewalls to provide support and some degree of flex to soften the ride (which they really don't do at LOL). The smaller tires are true pneumatic tires that rely on air pressure to keep their shape. They soften the ride tremendously compared to the run flat tires. I've owned both on Z's in my business and I'll take the pneumatics any day over the run flats. The run flats do not go flat no matter what you run over with them, but you pay for that feature with a harsh ride. The most important thing to remember with pneumatic front tires is to inflate them to what the machine manu recommends and not the max pressure stamped into the sidewall like a lot of guys do.

 

[lostcreekranch]

The factory only uses the smaller tires up front on certain models like the newer 915B, but the M and R models along with all of the Z900A series uses the run flats up front. They are not solid rubber as you stated though. They are hollow with stiff sidewalls to provide support and some degree of flex to soften the ride (which they really don't do at LOL). The smaller tires are true pneumatic tires that rely on air pressure to keep their shape. They soften the ride tremendously compared to the run flat tires. I've owned both on Z's in my business and I'll take the pneumatics any day over the run flats. The run flats do not go flat no matter what you run over with them, but you pay for that feature with a harsh ride. The most important thing to remember with pneumatic front tires is to inflate them to what the machine manu recommends and not the max pressure stamped into the sidewall like a lot of guys do.

Good to know RG1.

Thanks

 

[bandaidmd]

If you have never used a zero turn, I would suggest you use one on your property before buying one. As others have said, they work great on flat property. They can be a challange on sloping property. If you enjoy relaxing while you are mowing, stick with a tractor type mower.[/QUOTE]

Having mowed with ZTR's for 8 years i would argue the opposite, A conventional tractor style mower is surely not a relaxing job with all the turning and backing that has to be done especially with a non power steering model, running a ztr is a pleasure compared to that.

 

[rvtech]

I started out mowing my 5 acres on a 2305 with a 62" belly mower. It works great, but takes approximately 3 hours to mow it all. Like you, I had a budget, but wanted a zero turn. I had no interest in any "residential quality" mower. I ended up finding a commercial mower business that was auctioning off their old mowers. I purchased 3 used zero turn units at at the auction. I quickly fixed up and sold 2 of them which in effect left me with no money invested in the third, only time. This was approximately 5 years ago. I'm still using the same mower. It has needed some repairs along the way. (I'm a mechanic by trade) I'm very satisfied with the way I handled this. The zero turn I have is a 2005 commercial BadBoy with. 32H.P. Vanguard and a 72" mower. It mows our 5 avers in 1-1.5 hours easily. I only use the 2305 to mow areas that are sloped around a pond and a ditch.