Wheel bearings

[jel1988]

I bought a 6*12 SA utility trailer about 3 years ago when should I repack the wheel bearings? The trailer is only used once a month, roughly 50 hours of road time.

 

[Looking4new]

Right now would be an excellent time to repack them. IF you do it now, then you will know exactly what is going on and will have no worries for a year or so. I repack mine every three years.

 

[timswi]

I bought a 6*12 SA utility trailer about 3 years ago when should I repack the wheel bearings? The trailer is only used once a month, roughly 50 hours of road time.

I would..Sears has a bearing packer for like $12--squish and go type..Love mine. Much faster and cleaner than the manual method or trashing a camp pie iron

 

[Looking4new]

I'm old fashioned and do it the way I was taught, 50 years ago. Handfull of grease and cram it in on both sides. It works, just a little messy. Gas cleans up your hands good but varsol is safer.

 

[jlgurr]

I'm old fashioned and do it the way I was taught, 50 years ago. Handfull of grease and cram it in on both sides. It works, just a little messy. Gas cleans up your hands good but varsol is safer.

I prefer this method too. Dad showed me how quite a few years (not yet 50) ago and I still take comfort in "seeing" it done right. :dance1:

 

[Diamondpilot]

I hand pack all mine every three years or 10,000 miles.

Chris

 

[Travelover]

I think that it is time more than miles. In the bad ole days, all cars had front wheel bearings that were essentially the same as trailer bearings. Those bearings got repacked when the brake shoes were replaced. What kills trailer bearings is sitting around with temperature changes that induce moist air into the bearing, which condenses over time. A trailer being used heats up the bearing and hub and drives off moisture.

 

[oldballs]

Haven't packed mine (tandem equip hauler) in 14 years. .... but been meanin' to.

I did repack the bearing in an old utility trailer that I rebuilt for my son. They were shot...mostly rust. I'm glad that I did. Better get to my hauler this spring before it's too late. Bearings and seals are expensive.

 

[Looking4new]

For the hours it takes (2 or so)per trailer and the couple of $$ worth of grease it is worth it to me for the peace of mind. I inspect the brakes and clean the bearings before repacking them.
I do my hay wagon (4), trip plow (2), army trailer (2) and boat trailer (2). I will let a shop do the Kioti.
The Jeep has the 'new school' sealed bearings. I don't like it, but there isn't much I can do about it either.

 

[sixdogs]

If I pack them so I know when it's been done, I could--and do-- go 10 years or more on an infrequently used trailer stored indoors. No problem.
I've re-packed many bearings over the years and they can go far longer with today's modern grease. Anyway, I prefer the hand-pack method but I use rubber gloves to ease the clean up. Change the grease seals while you're at it.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Haven't packed mine (tandem equip hauler) in 14 years. .... but been meanin' to.

I did repack the bearing in an old utility trailer that I rebuilt for my son. They were shot...mostly rust. I'm glad that I did. Better get to my hauler this spring before it's too late. Bearings and seals are expensive.

Not really. Order them online and they are dirt cheap. My cost to the door for 3500# axles is $20 per axle for everything. 8000# axles are $34.

My labor is more.

Chris

 

[jlgurr]

Change the grease seals while you're at it.

Recently came into ownership of a trailer which I have not yet inspected/packed the bearings. Does anyone know of an easy way to determine the size of seal to purchase before actually taking the hub off the axle? These are non-braking hubs.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[Looking4new]

Is there a manufacturers tag on the trailer? It should have the serial/vin number for there too.

 

[jlgurr]

Is there a manufacturers tag on the trailer? It should have the serial/vin number for there too.

It's a home built trailer and states that on the title too. Was hoping that the bolt pattern, axle diameter, or something else like that would be a dead-giveaway. If not I'll just plan to start the work on a day I can drive in to town and buy the right size seal.

 

[Looking4new]

That would be your best bet.

 

[oldballs]

Not really. Order them online and they are dirt cheap. My cost to the door for 3500# axles is $20 per axle for everything. 8000# axles are $34.

My labor is more.

Chris

Looks like I got ripped at NAPA...$46 for bearings and seal for single axle small utility trailer...but the counter guy was quite helpful.

 

[oldballs]

It's a home built trailer and states that on the title too. Was hoping that the bolt pattern, axle diameter, or something else like that would be a dead-giveaway. If not I'll just plan to start the work on a day I can drive in to town and buy the right size seal.

Be sure to take the old seal with you.....the counter guy can't guess at the right one.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Recently came into ownership of a trailer which I have not yet inspected/packed the bearings. Does anyone know of an easy way to determine the size of seal to purchase before actually taking the hub off the axle? These are non-braking hubs.

Thanks,
Jeff

No real way. I maintain better than 50 trailers an they can very. 90% use basic seals, bearings, and races based off axle capacity but the other 10% can be mail order only items.

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

Looks like I got ripped at NAPA...$46 for bearings and seal for single axle small utility trailer...but the counter guy was quite helpful.

Napa is my last resort. ORILEYS is the best around here. For me I plan all my work weeks in advance and order everything through eBay, Amazon, or Web sites for 1/2 the price.

Chris

 

[sixdogs]

The seal is based off the hub and spindle size and the info can come from that or from the large bearing. Very often you can read the number on the old seal and that's really all you'll need for a new one. This is not difficult.

Only rarely have I bought a seal at a NAPA or place like that. They are way too expensive. Mail order is the only way to go, especially for farm equipment. I pack a lot off oddball sizes and have always found the parts regardless of how obsolete.