Wheel spacers

   / Wheel spacers #31  
Thanks for the feedback, @rScotty and @RjCorazza - this forum has such helpful folks on it!

I am trying to quantify the benefit on different spacer widths and am working on the maths. All I see on the forums is “It’s so much better!”, but no-one has any tangible information like, “On a 15% cross slope, with 2” spacers, it will take X more amount of force to tip the tractor. With 6” spacers, it will take Y amount.” I know I’m weird, but knowing the numbers eases my lack of confidence.

I had them ballast the fronts and rears, giving me about 350# up front and 1,400# more in the rear - no brainer there. And I get that this helps incrementally keeping a lower center of gravity. But, how much is actually gained from 2” spacers? I see the 6% increase in width adding to the leveraged length. But monetary outlay being similar, is it worth risking the perceived mechanical strain on the axles and getting 6” for 18% increase in leverage length?

I know a dork like me has done the calculations, I just can’t find it. If I end up creating it, I will share it. This is the closest thing I found and plan on starting here:

View attachment 1345858

My impatient self is saying, “Well, heck man… just get the 4” set then.”

Ignoring things like “momentum”, reality is like parts of this diagram. Except the height of the COG is just a guess. It can vary by what attachments are connected, they’re raised height or if set on the ground, tire ballast, and the height and weight of the FEL.

But what is true: Once the COG tips so that a vertical line down from it extends to nearly outside of the wheel stance width, the tractor is tipping over. (That is: the line “COG-L” or line “COG-R” becomes vertical)

Because we don’t know your tractors COG height and the initial stance width, we can’t calculate what an additional 2” or 4” width means in additional tipping degrees it takes to move the COG to the left or right, outside of the wheel stance. Otherwise, it’s geometry.
 
Last edited:
   / Wheel spacers #32  
Only thing i would consider is the increased leverage on the axle. The farther the wheels are from the center the more load the axle and bearings take, then consider the force applied to the axle crossing a slope. I have replaced axles on combines when they broke the axle crossing slope and they had no spacers installed. What does the tractor manufacturer recommend??
 
   / Wheel spacers #34  
I live on a 60 acre parcel of land in New Hampshire whereby my largest pasture is rather steeply sloped. Earlier this year, I purchased a new Mahindra 2638 tractor and before I took delivery, I had the dealer fill the rear tires and install 3" wheel spacers at the rear wheels. This did not affect the warranty and I feel 100 times safer with these mods. No need to put spacers on the front. My tractor will also never see the highway or spend any amount of time in third gear.
 
   / Wheel spacers #35  
I ordered my first tractor (TYM T574H) yesterday and am wondering if anyone dealing with hilly terrain has put spacers on to enhance stability. If so, what size?

My dealer seems reluctant to recommend them, but I’d like to have them put on before they fill the tires if I decide to pull the trigger.
Are dual rear wheels an option ?
If so. change your order to add them. Factory approved and you have your added stability.
 
   / Wheel spacers #36  
I have some severe hills that worried me with my BX2660, I put 2 inch Broteks on 12 years ago, much less pucker factor, and no bearing problems after 1500 hrs. Other advantage was at least on my tractor was it changed my rear wheels to studs instead of bolt holes. So much easier to put wheels back on with the spacer studs and nuts.
 
   / Wheel spacers #37  
Are you city folk trying to farm hillsides??? That is what LiveStock is for.
 
   / Wheel spacers #38  
The farther you space the wheels out, front or back, you increase the leverage on the lug bolts, axles, and axle bearings. Too much of a good thing ain't real good.
 
   / Wheel spacers #39  
i fully agree with kenhar; mid works best for me, and i feel by not going all out, i'm not sacrificing all the parts that don't appreciate extra stress. they do made a world of difference working sideways on hills. here is the website i ordered from (aluminum), and hopefully some photos.
 
   / Wheel spacers #40  
I put on 4" rear spacers when I bought my Kioti DK40 in 2013. I looked into it as thoroughly as you are doing. I have steep hills, and I was new to owning a tractor. My dealership wouldn't sell me a tractor without rear wheel fluid and so I had Rimguard put in (non-toxic). I thought about front spacers, but I don't recommend that because it puts a strain on the front axle (4 wheel drive) that isn't so much present in the rear axle assembly.

The only thing I don't like about having the rear spacers installed is it widens the tractor to 83" outside to outside of my Industrial tires - so that precludes putting the tractor on pretty much any trailer except an over the wheel trailer. Other than that, which isn't really an issue for me since I haven't needed to trailer it yet, I am 100% satisfied. The rear wheels are further out from the rear fenders, so if spraying mud is a concern for you know that.

My spacers were manufactured and sold by Motorsport Tech in Reno, Nevada. They are created from solid block aircraft aluminum, and I had both anodized dark gray, and then I painted them dark gray to match Kioti tractor gray. I had them installed at my 50 hour initial service by the dealership - and they put on the wheels for the widest stance (they are reversible in that regard). Today the spacers look as new as when I put them on - over 500 hours with the majority bush hogging 6-7 feet high hillside annual growth, including tree saplings. I do keep my tractor clean and inside a garage. These spacers came as advertised - Motorsport Tech knows the wheel templates for most tractors. The only thing not perfect was the spacer bolt holes were just a bit too tiny (they provided bolts and nuts). I didn't want to force them through so had a local shop ever so slightly drill them out - took about two minutes. Hopefully if you buy from them you won't have that issue.

When on hills keep your CG low and go slow.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2015 Ford F-450 Knapheide Service Truck (A48081)
2015 Ford F-450...
2008 John Deere 9570 STS Combine - Front Duals - Premium Cab - 1,704 Sep Hours - Clean & Field-Re... (A50397)
2008 John Deere...
3 Ton Creep Feeder (A48837)
3 Ton Creep Feeder...
16ft 3in Box Blade (A48837)
16ft 3in Box Blade...
Nissan 5K Propane Forklift (A50397)
Nissan 5K Propane...
2010 Keystone Cougar 5th Wheel Travel Trailer (A48082)
2010 Keystone...
 
Top