When to replace chainsaw file

[jaotguy]

if the cutting teeth are not work hardened , you can get a lot of mileage from 1 file.... but as it gets used, it takes a bit more each time to do a good job .... BTW, stopping frequently and touching up the teeth can actually extend the life of the chain too....

anyway , do what you "feel" is best for you ... 3 strokes , 10 strokes... all personal preference .... and experience .... some need more , some less ...
just try not to work with a dull tool of any sort.... just makes things harder and longer to do.

 

[CobyRupert]

Teeth get "Work hardened"? Does this happen? Or are chains tempered (softened) when they are over-heated and slowly cool?

 

[kco]

I do what has already been mentioned over a few posts:

--buy them by the dozen and don't try for too much mileage
--I use a holder to judge the angle and mark the handle end. Normally get about two sharpenings before turning it 90 degrees for another two for about 4 sharpenings per file.

I also have to resist the tendency to over-use sandpaper disks. At some point it becomes counter productive, even at $0.00 per hour!

 

[jaotguy]

Teeth get "Work hardened"? Does this happen? Or are chains tempered (softened) when they are over-heated and slowly cool?

the dull teeth get very hot then cool quickly when you stop ( chain sitting in a big steel bar heat sink ... remember ) .. the tips get very hard and you actually need a stone to sharpen them afterwards .... .... stopping before it gets dull (and hot ) keeps the teeth softer and easier to file ....

 

[CobyRupert]

the dull teeth get very hot then cool quickly when you stop ( chain sitting in a big steel bar heat sink ... remember ) .. the tips get very hard and you actually need a stone to sharpen them afterwards .... .... stopping before it gets dull (and hot ) keeps the teeth softer and easier to file ....

Very interesting. Good info. :thumbsup: I think we've moved beyond Chain Sharpening 101 and are learning more advanced Chain Sharpening 213 info.

 

[arrow]

I don't know if you can go by me as I was strictly into production. When I was working, I'd use a file 6 times. This included touch ups and occasional ding repairs. To this day as a regular homeowner, I still use it to file 6 times. I just like the cut going faster with a few strokes rather than too many multiple strokes to get to the same place.

 

[jaotguy]

:thumbsup: ding or dong , touch the ground /rock , etc ... stop and touch up the blade ...

continuing to "cut any way" just costs you more time down the road ....

 

[turnkey4099]

4-6 sharpenings?! I must have about 25-50 on mine. I guess I've got my money's worth out of it and can afford to splurge $1.45 on another. Heck, maybe even two!

Even when I'm "just going to touch it up", "2-3 strokes each", somehow I end up taking 5-7 on each tooth until it "feels" right. Don't know why I do this. :confused3:

You do it because you are using a dull file. 25 chains, much less 50 are way over the life of a file.

Harry K

 

[Bluegill2]

With a sharp file you will get the chain sharper, quicker & be more accurate with angles and such.

 

[CobyRupert]

You do it because you are using a dull file. 25 chains, much less 50 are way over the life of a file. Harry K

Yes! "I see the light" said the blind man. FINALLY grabbed a new file. Wow, what a difference. 3 zips and done.

 

[Dr_Zinj]

I replace my chainsaw file when after filing, I'm still cutting feather sawdust.

I replace my chain after filing it about 10 or 12 times, or if I break more than one tooth, which for me is somewhere between 6 and 12 months.

I replace the bar if it gets bent, or a rivet loosens up.

I replace the chainsaw if I blow a cylinder. Haven't had that problem since I stopped buying the El Cheapo light saws made for the occasional user and started buying the larger, 'logging' grade saws.

Only had a cylinder blown on one Husky and that was a factory defect - they replaced it free. Of course I did have to replace one chainsaw that I had pinched when a tree came down and twisted, and just before coming to rest, released the saw and rolled over it, turning it into $500 worth of metal and plastic confetti. Only time I ever cried cutting trees.

 

[turnkey4099]

Yes! "I see the light" said the blind man. FINALLY grabbed a new file. Wow, what a difference. 3 zips and done.

I hate to think about the many years I spent fighting files before I learned the lesson.

Harry K

 

[lostcreekranch]

I started using these diamond coated burrs about a year ago and am really pleased with how well they work. I have one in a corded Dremel tool in the shop and a second in a battery powered Dremel tool for quick touch ups in the field. They come in a 4 pack and I am still on my first two.

I used to use the Dremel brand "stone" sharpening burrs but they would usually break off tip before getting complete chain sharpened.


4 PC 5 32" Diamond Chainsaw Sharpener Burr Stone File Fits Dremel 1453 | eBay

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[kco]

With a sharp file you will get the chain sharper, quicker & be more accurate with angles and such.

I agree, it is much easier to keep consistent angles with a sharp file.

 

[Tollster]

After the push, and the feel of the bite I always look at the tooth for a good bite, I also use a file comb on all my files.. best of all they pull double duty by removing lint on Velcro tabs and such..