Where the TC45D is NOT deluxe

[jinman]

JTN, Your guess about the cost on the bracket is certainly accurate from what I saw done while working at an aircraft factory (they call that "value-engineering" I think).
I'm sure NH has done extensive testing on this tractor, but I really wonder if the testing had anything to do with the user interface of the tractor beyond convenience. The layout of the controls are superb IMHO, but they are not reliable. Just check out the complaints in this forum: 1. Tilt-extension steering wheels broken, 2. Parking brake handles that are stuck or broken, 3. Joystick handles that break (I've had two of these), 4. A hydraulic lift control so stiff you can't feather the lift, 5. A seat that sticks in place and is hard to adjust fwd-back, 6. Fogging dash panel, 7. and this rinky-dink HST swivel plate. These are all user interface/ergonomic issues. I love the ruggedness of my little tractor, but I absolutely hate the fragile controls. I promise you I don't abuse the controls. The fixes are so simple I could tell New Holland what they should do to fix most of these issues. In my original post, that was one of my main issues. I've just decided to take it on myself to fix problems I think should be fixed by New Holland. I wish I didn't have to, but I also love this little tractor and think it's worth it. The nicest thing I've discovered is that my dealer will help me if I need him. He's my "ace in the hole." Your advice to check with the dealer is "right on" in my opinion. /w3tcompact/icons/clever.gif

 

[BKColeman]

Jim,
I checked the weld on my TC40D tonight. It was a complete weld all the way around on both sides of the rod, identical to the picture of yours after the dealer fixed. So it looks like NH has addressed the issue. Sorry yours had to break.

--Brad

 

[JohnInCA]

Jim and bcoleman,

I took a look at my TC40D (new in Feb 2002). The bracket is welded all the way around, on one side of the plate. Seems like each welder had his own interpretation of how to do the job...

 

[jinman]

Brad - <font color=blue>It was a complete weld all the way around on both sides of the rod</font color=blue>

John in CA - <font color=blue>...welded all the way around, on one side of the plate</font color=blue>

Is it possible that New Holland is getting these parts from several vendors who have their own interpretation of the spec.? /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif Isn't it curious the wide variation in welding styles/quality? I am still amazed at how simple and seemingly obvious thing can have so much variation. The good news is that both of you guys have parts that will probably take the "beating." /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif I sure hope that's the trend./w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif

 

[jtn]

I have noticed similar problems with controls on my TC45D. The FEL lever on mine broke and the socket that connects it to the valve slid out. My dealer replaced both parts under warranty and I noticed the socket is now threaded instead of press-on. I will try and post a picture in the future. No problems with the tilt wheel but the seat is stiff. That seems to be a common problem with OROPS (machines without a cab) stations in general. As for the 3pt hitch lever being stiff, it seems to be loostening up with more use. The best 3pt hitch control I ever had was on my 1978 JD 850. It has been all downhill from there.

One other thing I would like to mention is I have noticed the teeth on the parking brake latch are wearing off rapidly. This was also a problem with my JD 970. When it wears off completely I intend to machine new grooves in it that will last longer. While on the subject, I noticed you commented on the sturdiness of the brakes. There is an ISO standard that the brake petals need to take a certain amount of force. This is to prevent the petals from failing in a "panic" situation, e.g. slamming the brake petal as hard as you can.

I will keep you all informed of any fixes from NH I hear about.

 

[frank_f15]

JINMAN: just caught up to this thread, sorry for your problem and u are right that kind of malfunction is uncalled for no matter the namebrand of machine.seems like an awful lot of work to get at the broken part, but i think i lot of that stems from the fact they try to make the tractors look PRETTY, so they design them for looks which makes it a bear to take apart.glad u are all fixed and have no more problems.
<font color=blue>BTW THE PHOTO'S WERE EXCELLENT</font color=blue>

 

[JohnInCA]

jtn and jinman,

There is a solution for that stiff 3pt lever. Take the cotter pin out of the castle nut and loosen it a few turns. The 40D is at the property, but I'll go out and take a picture of the 29D so you can see what I'm talking about.

 

[JohnInCA]

Here's a photo taken when I was installing the rear remotes. I've circled the nut in question. Note that I have replaced the standard cotter pin with a removable clip. Anyway, loosen the nut until the lever moves to your satisfaction, but not too loose, or it may move on it's own due to vibration.

 

[DVerbarg]

Thanks for the photo. I'll have to try that this weekend, if I get a chance to go play!

 

[jinman]

John, the picture looks to me like you had the right rear tire off the tractor. I've slightly adjusted a similar nut on my TC45D, but wasn't really convinced that it made any difference at all. I can see by the geometry of your control arm connections that you have one less pivot point than the Class III Boomers. Before I reinstall my operator's platform this weekend, I'll see about adjusting mine again, because it is right out in the open now. /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif