which coolant for kubota engines?????

[90cummins]

In the 60’s & 70’s when I was a kid it was simple, green stuff for everything even diesels which also required additives for liner protection.
With today’s engines that are made of various aluminum alloys the correct coolant is critical to avoid gasket & part failure due to corrosion.
Even American manufactures have their own flavor of coolant.
It AIN’T like it used to be!!!

90cummins

 

[art]

For the ag tractors we have been adding additives for quite some time now. It isn't the anti-freeze going bad as far as it's temperature rating but the additives to assist with lubrication of the water pump and to stop rust scaling and cavitation in wet sleeve engines. I from time to time hear someone say they have cavitation in a parent bore engine. This is normally from an imperfection in the block casting which surfaces with wear.

 

[namesray]

so are Kubota wet sleeved engines that require the sca additive or dry sleeved that don't need the sca addditives? and does "parent bore" engine mean the same as dry sleeved and does not require sca additive? I am leaning towards just sticking with the prestone universal I have been using (the yellow colored stuff=safe for all autos and engines and mixes with all coolants, but no sca's.) am I leaning the right direction? I am getting the impression collectively from everyone that yes cavitation does exits, especially in diesel engines, but not all diesel engines are built the same (wet sleeved or "parent bored") and the diesel engines that are wet sleeved need the sca's but the diesel engines that are "parent bore" do NOT require the sca's and the Kubota engines are "parent bore" and NOT wet sleeved. thanks for all the info so far.

 

[number two]

Ray-your Kubota engines have no sleeves-there are dry sleeves which are replaceable cylinder liners which don't touch coolant and there are wet sleeves that are replaceable cylinder liners that do contact coolant.Parent bore means the pistons ride on the cylinder block bores instead of replaceable liners.When rebuidling is needed,the block is bored oversized instead of replacing the cylinder liners.Please follow my recommendation of conventional green coolant from post #10 for best practices for your tractors.Good Luck!

 

[shanehobson]

How about blue coolant that says on the container, not suitable for alloy engines ?
Would that be ok for my diesel F1900 or diesel B2150 ?

 

[shanehobson]

How about blue coolant that says on the container, not suitable for alloy engines ?
Would that be ok for my diesel F1900 or diesel B2150 ?

 

[Paystar]

I'm switching mine to Peak Final Charge Global.

PEAK Commercial & Industrial | PEAKhd.com

 

[davesl708]

Conventional green coolant is what you want for your tractors.Your Kubota tractors are parent bore engines i.e. no sleeves.Almost a little hard to find at times because automobiles have not used this coolant for over ten years.Don't overthink this-it's still the old days as far Kubota coolant.Get some regular ethelyene glycol green stuff and mix 50/50 with distilled water,change every two years.Good Luck!

My only questions is, why distilled water vs tap water? None of the engine manuals I have call for distilled water. Is there something corrosive in tap water that makes it a bad choice?

 

[PhysAssist]

My only questions is, why distilled water vs tap water? None of the engine manuals I have call for distilled water. Is there something corrosive in tap water that makes it a bad choice?

First, in case no one noticed:

The 3 or 4 recent comments and questions were appended to a 2 y/o thread.

That said, It's not any less current an issue today, and also, it reminded me that it's time for my B2320's flush and fill.

Secondly, it's that tap water [whether from public water utilities or from private wells] may have a wide range of dissolved and possibly also suspended solids in it, any of which could precipitate out and cause scaling that would damage the cooling system and/or degrade the cooling ability of the system and cause overheating and engine failure.

That's without mentioning possible acidic or alkaline water which can independently corrode the metal and other components it contacts.

The manufacturers all say that THEIR coolant is best and best able to counteract these factors, but it's cheap insurance to either dilute with distilled water [cheap way] or use pre-diluted coolant [usually more expensive despite the decreased amount of product being sold- "convenience charge"].

That's as best I can recall these issues from an older previous thread on another board, but as I have CRS [can't recall s...:confused3:]- it may be suspect.
Thomas

 

[sixdogs]

Tap water likely is likely "hard" water in that there are dissolved minerals in it that will collect on internal passages of the engine or radiator. I'm a cheapskate but after learning about coolant and it's importance I now use Deere pre mixed coolant in most things and regular Peak or Prestone pre-mixed in small Kubotas. My Toyotas get genuine Toyota pre-mixed. Too many horror stories out there.