Which model?

[momark54]

Yes, that is the plan, to mow it as low as possible before tilling, just for that reason(so it doesn't get wrapped up).

 

[wcampbell47]

Usually the manufacturer of 3 point PTO devices recommend the minimum HP for the device in their specifications sheet. I am thinking you could just google the brand name and locate the spec sheet online. That might help take a lot of the guess work out of which tractor to match it up with. For instance I found that a six foot King Kutter recommends 35-50 hp. I am thinking that is PTO hp, so engine hp would be a little higher.

In the past I have set my tiller depth to one or two inches to till over a grassy area that is to become a garden. I then skim the grass off with the FEL. If the soil is a sandy loam mix or has been a garden before I would increase the depth and till. If the soil is clay, dry and tough I try to plow it first then till. Seems to be much easier on the equipment that way.

 

[Fallon]

Usually the manufacturer of 3 point PTO devices recommend the minimum HP for the device in their specifications sheet. I am thinking you could just google the brand name and locate the spec sheet online. That might help take a lot of the guess work out of which tractor to match it up with. For instance I found that a six foot King Kutter recommends 35-50 hp. I am thinking that is PTO hp, so engine hp would be a little higher.

In the past I have set my tiller depth to one or two inches to till over a grassy area that is to become a garden. I then skim the grass off with the FEL. If the soil is a sandy loam mix or has been a garden before I would increase the depth and till. If the soil is clay, dry and tough I try to plow it first then till. Seems to be much easier on the equipment that way.

It also goes the other way... If you put a 100hp tractor in-front of a 30hp rated implement, the big tractor can pretzel it before you even blink. Sheer pins or clutches will protect the PTO & gearbox, but not the implement as a whole, depending on the implement.

 

[Ivan49]

My old tractor was a 32 hp. I run a 6 foot tiller and 6 foot brush hog with no problems at all. My ground varies from clay to sand and I usually try to go at least 5 inches deep. My new tractor is a 33 hp and I have run the brushhog in 5 foot tall weeds with no problem. Biggest factor in using anything is your ground speed. I am sure the 25 hp would run it also but the 33 hp would be better. For the price difference between the L 3301 and the L 3901 I went with the L 3301 as I could not see paying that much extra for the same tractor but with 7 hp more, My old tractor did everything that I wanted to do so my choice was easy

 

[momark54]

Ivan, was your old tractor a Kubota.... or something else?

 

[Ivan49]

My old tractor was a white FB 32. I bought it new in 1987 so it had some use on it

 

[wcampbell47]

My old tractor was a 32 hp. I run a 6 foot tiller and 6 foot brush hog with no problems at all. My ground varies from clay to sand and I usually try to go at least 5 inches deep. My new tractor is a 33 hp and I have run the brushhog in 5 foot tall weeds with no problem. Biggest factor in using anything is your ground speed. I am sure the 25 hp would run it also but the 33 hp would be better. For the price difference between the L 3301 and the L 3901 I went with the L 3301 as I could not see paying that much extra for the same tractor but with 7 hp more, My old tractor did everything that I wanted to do so my choice was easy

I went the other way. I did not think trading frame size (B to L) for 1 hp more was economically sane so I went for the L3901. The biggest gain was in PTO hp 23 to 30 while engine hp went from 32 to 37.

 

[dchemphill1]

Great choice on the L3901. Just bought one this fall and love it. Added led light on the ROP and rim guard in the R1 tires. Got a bush hog with it and it did an awesome job in the pasture.