Which truck would you get?

[Diamondpilot]

Chris
What is your fathers general mileage when towing decent weight, say, 6,000 or above, with the Eco Boost? If you know.

13mpg pulling a 6,000# 20, box trailer loaded over a 250 mile trip last year. He has 3.73 gears.

Never used anything but 87. His average over the first 20,000 miles was 18.3mpg

Chris

 

[crazyal]

The next time you are pulling your trailer try pumping your brakes and then stop and see if that changes the stopping power. If so then it could be things the rear brakes being out of adjustment, the flexible brake lines expanding, and/ or air in the system. If pumping doesn't seam to have a big impact then I think I would look into converting the rear over to disc. These guys seam to make a reasonably priced kit to convert the rear. It looks like for less than $500.

Suspension



The kit uses a brake caliper from a Chevy. They say a pair will cost you $300 but a simple look at Rock auto shows you can get a pair of them for $150 plus shipping. The brackets ($80), the chevy rotors with an enlarged center hole ($90) and brake lines that have the correct fittings to connect to a chevy caliper and a toyota fitting is pretty much all you need. Other than that you'll need to connect the parking brake cable to the chevy caliper. I haven't called them to confirm that they will work with a tundra. It looks like the installation requires the modification of the steel plate that the brake shoes mount to and connecting the parking brake cable to the chevy caliper. I would think someone handy with tools could do it themselves or a shop could do the work in a couple of hours.

 

[sea2summit]

Are there any years of each brand that I should avoid? Bad trannies, etc? I know the 6.0L Ford were problematic, but also understand there are SUPPOSED to be after market cures. I'd rather not get one I HAD to sink $$ into to make it reliable. I bought my Tundra with 17K on it and it have never needed to go to the shop since i bought it, except for sched maint.

Not wishing ANY "my brand is better" comments, just honest opinions. I suppose I would be looking at trucks with 100,000 + on them as well.

I used to be hard core Chevy and loved their trucks, they became Gov Motors so I sold all of them I had and switched to Ford and swore never again to buy/support Chevy but that's just me.

I'm highly impressed with my Ford, I've got the 2010 so just prior to the new 6.7 and I've bumper pulled significantly more than your looking to tow with a 5th wheel and it has done great all accross the US. For my next truck I'm really looking at the chassis cab 450 and making a custom bed for it, probably a few years down the road yet but that's how impressed I've been with the Ford.

 

[handirifle]

The next time you are pulling your trailer try pumping your brakes and then stop and see if that changes the stopping power. If so then it could be things the rear brakes being out of adjustment, the flexible brake lines expanding, and/ or air in the system. If pumping doesn't seam to have a big impact then I think I would look into converting the rear over to disc. These guys seam to make a reasonably priced kit to convert the rear. It looks like for less than $500.

Suspension

View attachment 325759

The kit uses a brake caliper from a Chevy. They say a pair will cost you $300 but a simple look at Rock auto shows you can get a pair of them for $150 plus shipping. The brackets ($80), the chevy rotors with an enlarged center hole ($90) and brake lines that have the correct fittings to connect to a chevy caliper and a toyota fitting is pretty much all you need. Other than that you'll need to connect the parking brake cable to the chevy caliper. I haven't called them to confirm that they will work with a tundra. It looks like the installation requires the modification of the steel plate that the brake shoes mount to and connecting the parking brake cable to the chevy caliper. I would think someone handy with tools could do it themselves or a shop could do the work in a couple of hours.

Pumping DOES sometimes make a difference, and that does tell me to adjust the rears. One of the many mods guys do to their brakes is the stainless steel braided lines. I m positive there is no air in the system, but the brake lines and most likely some sort of read disk setup is in the near future of this truck. I'll see what the Sequoia upgrade will cost, at least that one is almost a direct bolt on, and still uses Toyota parts. Then it won't be mixed and matched. I'll have to see if I can get the data on disk/caliber size and compare the Chevy/Sequoia upgrades. I do not really expect a noticable improvement in stopping power with that, but rather a more constant HARD pedal feel. There is some spongy feel when the adjustment is off, and I am pretty sure most of that will go away when I change the lines, and the fluid.

 

[handirifle]

13mpg pulling a 6,000# 20, box trailer loaded over a 250 mile trip last year. He has 3.73 gears.

Never used anything but 87. His average over the first 20,000 miles was 18.3mpg

Chris

Good numbers there for sure. How does the power FEEL, when hitting steep and long grades, does it feel like it has 400lb torque? My Tundra is rated at 315 and really doesn't "hunt" through gears much, unless I floor it and try for 50 mph up a grade which I can do lots of times, but it jumps back and forth from 3rd to 4th, a lot. So I usually don't push it that hard. I'll let it downshift to 3rd and back off the gas a bit and hold about 45. Mine has variable valve timing so that helps the power curve a lot.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Good numbers there for sure. How does the power FEEL, when hitting steep and long grades, does it feel like it has 400lb torque? My Tundra is rated at 315 and really doesn't "hunt" through gears much, unless I floor it and try for 50 mph up a grade which I can do lots of times, but it jumps back and forth from 3rd to 4th, a lot. So I usually don't push it that hard. I'll let it downshift to 3rd and back off the gas a bit and hold about 45. Mine has variable valve timing so that helps the power curve a lot.

It does great. Better than any other gas engine I have owned. I would say it tows and feels just as good as my 1999 7.3L diesel.

Chris

 

[bearcreek paul]

I've been towing my campers for the last 12 yrs. I thought about going diesel to,but since I bought a 2000 silverado 2500 gas years ago no regrets. My current camper is a 28 ft freedom spirit and it weighs 7500 loaded. No problems pulling it at 65mph up hill. For my next truck I probably will go with a 1/2 ton as the ratings have gotten so much better. As far as gas mileage goes I get 15 highway empty and 10 mpg when towing.

 

[crazyal]

Pumping DOES sometimes make a difference, and that does tell me to adjust the rears. One of the many mods guys do to their brakes is the stainless steel braided lines. I m positive there is no air in the system, but the brake lines and most likely some sort of read disk setup is in the near future of this truck. I'll see what the Sequoia upgrade will cost, at least that one is almost a direct bolt on, and still uses Toyota parts. Then it won't be mixed and matched. I'll have to see if I can get the data on disk/caliber size and compare the Chevy/Sequoia upgrades. I do not really expect a noticable improvement in stopping power with that, but rather a more constant HARD pedal feel. There is some spongy feel when the adjustment is off, and I am pretty sure most of that will go away when I change the lines, and the fluid.

The ideal way to go would be to use Toyota parts but that'll double your cost. I know people talk about going to a junk yard to get the parts but around here, at least they are going to want to sell you the whole axle. Maybe you can work out a deal where they give you some credit for your axles that could work out, if you can find one. You'll probably need to replace the brake pads and rotors depending on how long it's been sitting. I know I have seen axles for sale on ebay. You could probably sell any unused part to recoup some of the cost.

I think braided lines are a good idea but the rear disc set up would do more to help stopping when you have a trailer. The Toyota's have a proportioning valve connected to the rear axle. As you weigh down the rear of the truck it increases the rear braking.

 

[handirifle]

The ideal way to go would be to use Toyota parts but that'll double your cost. I know people talk about going to a junk yard to get the parts but around here, at least they are going to want to sell you the whole axle. Maybe you can work out a deal where they give you some credit for your axles that could work out, if you can find one. You'll probably need to replace the brake pads and rotors depending on how long it's been sitting. I know I have seen axles for sale on ebay. You could probably sell any unused part to recoup some of the cost.

I think braided lines are a good idea but the rear disc set up would do more to help stopping when you have a trailer. The Toyota's have a proportioning valve connected to the rear axle. As you weigh down the rear of the truck it increases the rear braking.

didn't know exactly how the proportioning valve setup worked, that's interesting.

The only issue with an axle swap is 2 things. First I JUST turned over 71K on my truck, and KNOW how it has been kept up. Not so on a used one, plus, would have to insure axle ration identical since mine is 4x4.

 

[crazyal]

didn't know exactly how the proportioning valve setup worked, that's interesting.

The only issue with an axle swap is 2 things. First I JUST turned over 71K on my truck, and KNOW how it has been kept up. Not so on a used one, plus, would have to insure axle ration identical since mine is 4x4.

You couldn't swap the whole axle because the Sequoia has coil springs. What you would do is remove each axle and brake assembly from each side. There are 4 nuts on the inside that you remove along with the brake line and parking brake cable and the whole assembly will slide out of the axle housing. You don't need to remove the housing from the leaf springs or the center gears. It's actually pretty easy to do and what you need to do if you have to replace the seal (which you should do). The Sequoia axles should slide right in but the parking brake cable could be different and the brake line will be different. If you have the whole sequoia axle then you should have every part you would need. But, as I said, you'll want to replace the seal and the rotor and brake pads could also need to be replaced.

If you look near the center of the axle (I think passenger's side) you should see a bracket held on with two bolts. The top of the bracket will have round thing with a metal rod coming out of it going up to the frame. That is the lever for the proportioning valve. The valve is on the other end of the rod and bolted to the frame. You'll see hydraulic lines going to it. It is adjustable but I wouldn't touch it. Giving your truck too much rear brake will make the rear unstable when braking on a corner. It's a real problem if you don't have a load in your bed, you could find yourself upside down in a ditch. What I can't tell you is if the rear disc brakes allow you to change the brake bias (balance) between front and back or if you should leave it alone. I think, in theroy, you could give the truck more rear brake with a disc setup but I think I would leave it alone.

I looked into converting my Tundra years ago to disc but decided that, since I rarely drive it now, I would be better off getting a newer used Tundra with the 5.7 with low mileage. The engine in my 2000 tundra is less powerful than yours. That way I would gain almost 150 more horses, better brakes, and a truck that will last for decades.