Why don't compact tractors make more power??

[Charlesaf3]

Of all the things I've wanted for my tractor, more horsepower isn't one of them. Horsepower is oversold as a metric of getting things done. Arguably, my b3030 doesn't even need the HP it has, much less more. And more HP would burn more gas to do the same work...

Don't get me wrong, I want and am getting a bigger tractor. But its for traction, loader lift etc - hp isn't the issue, aside from minor pto considerations.

I know most of the people here know this, but it would have been good for me to read as a newbie so I'll post it.

 

[Wombat125]

Now that's one that would really needs a ROPS.

I'm thinking a cage, a parachute, and in my case, an extra pair of shorts.

mx125 -- We all know you're there thinking, "Hey now, There's something I could work with."

I'm just kidding, of course. This has been a good thread because it made me think through some things too.

 

[RWolf]

You could have all the horsepower and torque in the world but if you can't get it to the ground and do useful work then it's wasted. I've got a SCUT that's 14hp with two 3 speed trannys inline. IF I could keep it from spinning wheels it could pull a house down (just a slight exaggeration) but the premise is it could do a lot more if it was about 500lbs heavier. It also has a FEL but because of it's weight limitation it's only rated at lifting 500lbs. I can do a bit more because I've weighted the tires etc.

 

[N80]

Most car hp ratings are also at RPM's that most cars rarely or never see. You'd be surprised how little you use of a cars marketed HP rating.

 

[mx125]

Thanks again . . That is actually exactly the kind of info I needed. Kind of clears up that particular line of thinking for me and all makes sense. I don't feel short on horsepower with my JD CUT (except in high grass with my rotary cutter or slight incline in high gear). More that the size of tractor reaches it's limits . . as you said. I might need to jump up to 30ish HP to deal with grading and plowing my new road, or maybe I just need to hire someone with a proper grader twice a year . . . . but that's a whole other thread!!

 

[Wombat125]

You'd be surprised how little you use of a cars marketed HP rating.

I drive a 1988.5 Suzuki Samurai. I can fairly assure you that I use all of it.

 

[Charlesaf3]

I drive a 1988.5 Suzuki Samurai. I can fairly assure you that I use all of it.

LOL! Aren't those measured in gerbil power?

 

[greggh]

LOL! Aren't those measured in gerbil power?

But in that case it is the size of the cage...

 

[John_Mc]

I drive a 1988.5 Suzuki Samurai. I can fairly assure you that I use all of it.

Maybe when accelerating, but you'd be surprised how little you are using just cruising at highway speeds.

John Mc

 

[Wombat125]

I'm guessing you haven't driven a Samurai.

From the factory a Samurai weighs 2200 lbs. It comes equiped with a 66 squirrelpower, 76 ft-lb, 1.3L, 8v, carbureted motor. The 1986-87 models couldn't pull 5th gear, so they lowered the ratio in the 88 models.

When you get on the on-ramp, you run her up to about 6000 rpm in each gear except 5th. Once in 5th gear, you simply stand on the throttle. All the time. No matter what. Your forward velocity will be somewhere between 55 and 60 miles per hour. Hit a little hill or a head wind and you're back into 4th. Or 3rd....

Having said that, I have repowered my Sami with a multi-port FI, 16v, 1.6L big-block out of a 1994 Geo Tracker. Now I will never win a drag race, but at least I can go 70 and keep up with traffic. And I don't have the throttle pinned. At least not all the time.

I wouldn't trade her for a brand new Cadillac.