/ Why isn't anyone talking about the Deutz Fahr 5080d? #31
- Apr 21, 2001
- Rural mountains - Colorado
- Kubota M59, JD530, JD310SG. Restoring Yanmar YM165D
Just buy tractor & loader from dealer. The loader seems very low priced. Forks seem fairly priced. Blade & grapple look overpriced, even with the $2000 discount
That's my take on it too. I'd go there looking with a "show me" attitiude. The implements would have to be top of the line to justify the high prices. And maybe they are.
Not that I know anything about that particular brand of tractor. It looks nice, but I don't even know where it is built. Do you? Make sure it is not a "made in China" version...
About all I know is at one time that was a proud name. Who knows today? You are taking a lot on faith, but I'd make sure at the least that it was European designed and built and that it came with ops, shop, and parts manuals in English - or include those in the purchase if you can. $100 each is typical price for those 3 manuals.
Get some spare filters and everything needed for the first service. I like to do that before 100 hrs. Then service by the book. Or see if the dealer will do that
Ask about delivery and hauling and if they have a mobile mechanic. Find out who is responsible for hauling during warranty and their loaner policy. Whatever you agree about hauling and loaners, get both those in writing right on the sales agreement.
I happen to think that it is reasonable to split the cost of initial hauling but for the dealer to pay for hauling if warranty work is needed. And a loaner provided after 30 to 45 days. That's what I hand wrote onto on my last sales agreement and both myself and dealer signed that addition.
I don't know grapples, so cannot comment other than to say make sure the SSQA works smoothly and that the tractor has the proper additional hydraulics to run the grapple. That extra front hydraulic control for the grapple is called the "third function. Yes, I like the European latching system myself, but SSQA is what you want in the USA so that you can attach rental skid steer implements.
Forks are easy to see if they are buit right. Good forks are massively heavy and obviously well built because people end up working around them. The forks themselves are solid steel & adjust for width easily...maybe even hydraulically.
Rear blades I do know about - having bought several that didn't work well until buying a Big Rhino that did & does... A good blade is worth that price and more. If you expect it to do more work than damage, then it should be 3-way adjustable for angle, tilt, and offset and maybe have a trailing wheel. I'd expect that two of the three adjustments to be hydraulic cylinder remote adjustments given the price. Certainly angle and tilt are hydraulic. Be nice if offset and trailing wheel heght is too....but not I think you are at $6000 on a quality blade. You don't use offset all that much if it is an 8 foot blade. But you do want your blade to have a pivoting offset rather than a sliding blade type.
Mine is all manual adjust....which works if you are young, but is why I wish for hydraulics...
Again, the blade for a cat I/II hitch should be obviously heavily built. A trailing wheel and end caps are nice features if it has them - if not, ask. End caps make it into a box blade on demand. Make sure the tractor has the proper quick connect hydraulic remotes to actuate the blade hydraulics whether the blade has them or not. You will appreciate hydraulics on a blade of that size. & also use the rear hydraulics for other implements. I like for a cat I/II blade to weight around 750 to 1000 lbs - maybe more.