Why oh why

[NYlumberman]

View attachment 4456426

When I look these two machines, on the Kubota, the cylinder rod is smaller, so it would have more piston area when applying down force. The NH lift cylinder rod is larger relative to the cylinder bore, so it will have less down force at the same system pressure.

 

[Elviscaretaker]

When I look these two machines, on the Kubota, the cylinder rod is smaller, so it would have more piston area when applying down force. The NH lift cylinder rod is larger relative to the cylinder bore, so it will have less down force at the same system pressure.

When I went out to feed the critters this morning I took a good look at my TC-30. You are partially right the issue is the ram, but it's more the travel of it. You won't get much lift with a flat bucket on it due to it being compressed in as far as it'll go, guess it explains why I always tilted my bucket on that one first. My G-5110 will give me close to a foot of lift with a flat bucket but that is a completely different animal. The rams on my TC-30 also seem to be on the small bore size, stock ones on it still.

 

[Jaygyver]

I realize the OP is happy with the answers but I wonder if the relief valve is just weaker on that part of the system on those models. Safety feature? "It's a feature, not a defect"
2700psi should be enough to lift the front end, say if the bucket is a foot or two up on brush or a log and you then try to lower the loader it should lift the wheels. You're not lifting the whole tractor, you're only lifting barely half the weight of the tractor.

Both my '97 JD-770 and my '22 LS-235 will lift the wheels if I have the loader 4 or 5 feet up in the air on top of some brush and I want to smoosh down the pile.

Someone already brought it up but wanted to mention it,
My JD-770 with the bucket curled, the loader will hit the ground and partially take the weight off the tires but not lift it, but my LS loader, with the bucket curled, has around an inch of air between it and the ground when fully lowered.
Just the position of the ram, and where it's mounted. In general terms, move it back and you get more depth, move it forward and you get more height.

 

[Bruze Heim]

Interesting thread. I just bought a 2013 T1510 in October. I've brought several loads of gravel up from my creek to fill in the driveway and it worked fine doing that. I have monkeyed a little bit trying to lift the front wheels and it wouldn't do it. Don't remember exactly what I did.

And all the other comments here about other reasons for it not lifting are interesting, I will check them out next time I go to the barn. I won't be starting it anytime soon.

What I did find out the other day is that this thing is worthless in the snow even with 4WD (tires are worn somewhat). My AWD truck went uphill to the road with 6" of fresh snow and it didn't even spin. The tractor would not go up at all, after several tries. I took a different route and got up to the road; I had to clean out around my mailbox or the mailman won't leave mail.

I'm used to my old Fergie with double-rings, that thing was unstoppable.

 

[John_Mc]

What I did find out the other day is that this thing is worthless in the snow even with 4WD (tires are worn somewhat). My AWD truck went uphill to the road with 6" of fresh snow and it didn't even spin. The tractor would not go up at all, after several tries. I took a different route and got up to the road; I had to clean out around my mailbox or the mailman won't leave mail.

Do you have R4 tires?

My R4 tires were bad in snow even when fairly new and absolutely sucked once they were well-worn. I stick with them because they hold up very well while working in the rocky terrain in our woods. Some studded, "Euro-style" diamond pattern chains on the rear wheels made al the difference when working in snowy and icy conditions.

 

[Mtsoxfan]

I needed chains on my TC29D for traction in snow. It did better in muddy condition without chains vs in snow. My new tractor, Kioti, is no different. Thinking about putting chains on, in case I need tractor this winter. UTV does the plowing now. R4 on both.

 

[Bruze Heim]

Do you have R4 tires?

My R4 tires were bad in snow even when fairly new and absolutely sucked once they were well-worn. I stick with them because they hold up very well while working in the rocky terrain in our woods. Some studded, "Euro-style" diamond pattern chains on the rear wheels made al the difference when working in snowy and icy conditions.

Just from looking at it, my T1510 will not have room for chains without putting wheel spacers in it. There's only an inch or so clearance now between tire and fender. Yes, they are R4s. I do not have a heated area to work on it, so if I decided to get chains and spacers, it won't happen this winter.

FWIW: I live on a dirt road so my tractors never see pavement. I left the chains on my Fergie for probably 20 years, will do it again with this NH. I'm old (75) and don't do a whole lot anymore, but being able to plow my driveway would be nice, and getting the occasional logs out of the woods (just the easy stuff) to burn is something I still do too -- although I don't need chains for that. And I dig gravel out of the creek to maintain my driveway.

Chains are such a PITA to put on and get adjusted right, that living where I do, and not using the tractor a whole lot, just leaving them on year 'round makes the most sense.

 

[John_Mc]

Chains are such a PITA to put on and get adjusted right, that living where I do, and not using the tractor a whole lot, just leaving them on year 'round makes the most sense.

Years ago, @LouNY posted a description of how to "drive the chains on". It's also the method that came with the instructions when I finally upgraded to the Euro-style chains It is so much easier than any other method I've tried. The only lifting involved is in getting the chains from where you stored them to where you want to put them on.

I can't find Lou's original post now, but the first post in the thread "Put My Chains on Yesterday - The Easy Way" by @Gordon Gould gives a good pictorial description of the process.

Just lay the chains out behind the tractor with the stud side facing UP, tie the end of the chain to the tire, drive forward, stopping occasionally to make sure the chains are centered properly on the tire. Drive until the end you tied on has come around the tire and is halfway up the back of the tire. Stop and make the connections, and you are done. With just a little bit of care, I don't have to do the extra step required by some other methods of driving around for a bit and then retightening the chains.

 

[Bruze Heim]

Years ago, @LouNY posted a description of how to "drive the chains on". It's also the method that came with the instructions when I finally upgraded to the Euro-style chains It is so much easier than any other method I've tried. The only lifting involved is in getting the chains from where you stored them to where you want to put them on.

I can't find Lou's original post now, but the first post in the thread "Put My Chains on Yesterday - The Easy Way" by @Gordon Gould gives a good pictorial description of the process.

Just lay the chains out behind the tractor with the stud side facing UP, tie the end of the chain to the tire, drive forward, stopping occasionally to make sure the chains are centered properly on the tire. Drive until the end you tied on has come around the tire and is halfway up the back of the tire. Stop and make the connections, and you are done. With just a little bit of care, I don't have to do the extra step required by some other methods of driving around for a bit and then retightening the chains.

I've seen a few Youtube videos about that in recent weeks.

 

[LouNY]

Here is a link to the original post, that has been a while

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/mounting-tire-chains.405039/