Winch from rear end

bcp · Apr 17, 2014

From:
Differential (mechanical device) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

..for example, if the car is making a turn to the right, the main crown wheel may make 10 full rotations. During that time, the left wheel will make more rotations because it has further to travel, and the right wheel will make fewer rotations as it has less distance to travel. The sun gears (which drive the axle half-shafts) will rotate in opposite directions relative to the ring gear by, say, 2 full turns each (4 full turns relative to each other), resulting in the left wheel making 12 rotations, and the right wheel making 8 rotations.

The rotation of the crown wheel gear is always the average of the rotations of the side sun gears.

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If the ring gear turns 10 times, and the right wheel turns 0 times, the left wheel must turn 20 times.

Bruce

CalG · Apr 17, 2014

muddstopper said:
In any event, if one plans on using a rear end to make a winch, welding the spider gears to make a posilock diff. is the simplest method. We call them hobart lockers.

Again, if you make a differential into a bulky 90 degree gear box, you have thrown out half the potential.

But, if one needs a speed reducer to make a go of a winch application, may as well just replicate a Farmi/ Fransgard/Uniforest/Norse/ etc.etc.

muddstopper · Apr 18, 2014

I have a diff in the shop. I intend to try it, when I get time, right now its just not at the top of my list of things I need to verify, and the rearend is kinda buried. I'll get around to it.

muddstopper · Apr 18, 2014

CalG said:
Again, if you make a differential into a bulky 90 degree gear box, you have thrown out half the potential.

But, if one needs a speed reducer to make a go of a winch application, may as well just replicate a Farmi/ Fransgard/Uniforest/Norse/ etc.etc.

I thought the topic of this thread was making a winch out of a car diff. If that is the case, then welding the spider gears would be the easiest method. I have never seen a Farmi/ Fransgard/Uniforest/Norse/ winch so I cant comment on those. I have seen and used winchs made with rearends and every one I have ever seen had the spider gears welded to make them solid lockers and they worked pretty dang good.

Personally, IF I was going to make a winch for a tractor, I would copy the winch designs that was used on the old BigStick and Kennemer pulpwood loader. They used a cable drum and brake drum mounted on a shaft, the brake drum had a large sprocket mounted on it that was driven by a pto chain drive. To engage the winch, there was a master cylinder and brake line connected to the wheel cylinder in the brake drum that when depressed, it would engage the brake shoes to the drum and make the cable drum rotate. With this method, you could feather the brake lever to control speed and power and if released the winch would stop. Another advantage to the Bigstick design is that it would be a lot lighter than using a car/truck rear end

Ole Orange · Apr 18, 2014

muddstopper said:
I thought the topic of this thread was making a winch out of a car diff. If that is the case, then welding the spider gears would be the easiest method. I have never seen a Farmi/ Fransgard/Uniforest/Norse/ winch so I cant comment on those. I have seen and used winchs made with rearends and every one I have ever seen had the spider gears welded to make them solid lockers and they worked pretty dang good.

Personally, IF I was going to make a winch for a tractor, I would copy the winch designs that was used on the old BigStick and Kennemer pulpwood loader. They used a cable drum and brake drum mounted on a shaft, the brake drum had a large sprocket mounted on it that was driven by a pto chain drive. To engage the winch, there was a master cylinder and brake line connected to the wheel cylinder in the brake drum that when depressed, it would engage the brake shoes to the drum and make the cable drum rotate. With this method, you could feather the brake lever to control speed and power and if released the winch would stop. Another advantage to the Bigstick design is that it would be a lot lighter than using a car/truck rear end

Now that sounds like what I was looking for,

do you know where there might be photos of this. I think my original question got off topic but I enjoy reading it anyways but got quite a bit over my head. If we skip the rear end does anyone else have ideas of a simple winch

R W · Apr 18, 2014

muddstopper said:
They used a cable drum and brake drum mounted on a shaft, the brake drum had a large sprocket mounted on it that was driven by a pto chain drive. To engage the winch, there was a master cylinder and brake line connected to the wheel cylinder in the brake drum that when depressed, it would engage the brake shoes to the drum and make the cable drum rotate.

There are basic plans for a winch similar to this in "The Lincoln Stabilizer" (No2 Vol31) 1962. The main difference being , two brake drums are used, one for the drive and one as a brake.
If anyone would like a photo copy of this design + some others, let me know.

bcp · Apr 18, 2014

More homemade winch ideas:

From:
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=37209.0

From:
Lesson Three - Attachments for Skidding and Forwarding

Glider launching winch truck:
Winch Project Log

Bruce

muddstopper · Apr 18, 2014

R W said:
There are basic plans for a winch similar to this in "The Lincoln Stabilizer" (No2 Vol31) 1962. The main difference being , two brake drums are used, one for the drive and one as a brake.
If anyone would like a photo copy of this design + some others, let me know.

We used to own a BigStick and later a Kennemer wood loader. I dont remember which one it was, but one did have brake drums on each end and the other used a wide brake band on one end like was used on some of the older trucks as a drive shaft emergency brake. If i remember correctly, the one with the emergency brake band worked better because you could adjust the tension so that the cable didnt free spool when you where pulling it off the drum.

I tried searching for plans of one of those winches about a year ago, but didnt find anything. I have the design in my head. I had to work on ours so many times, I can still see it in my mind.

They are pretty simply. The cable spool in mounted on a shaft and is supported on each end with pillow block bearing. On one side of the spool, it had a large dia, looked like pipe, welded to it. The pipe like piece had a brake band wrapped around it and a cable to pull it tight to act as a brake. The other end of the shaft was machined to accept a front hub and brake drum off a car or truck. The brake backing plate was welded to the shaft. A hole was center drilled and cross drilled to add a line for the brake line from the shaft to the wheel cylinder on the backing plate. The end of the shaft had a swivel fitting to attach the brake line from a master cylinder that was lever actuated. The hub had a sprocket attached using the wheel studs. A roller chain was used to connect the winch sprocket to another sprocket on a shaft ran off the truck pto. I dont remember the gear ratio of the sprockets, but the one on the brake drum was at least as large as the brake drum dia. When the pto was engaged, the brake drum turned continuous with the cable spool remaining stationary. Whenever the brake master cylinder was depressed, the brake shoes would contact the brake drum and turn the cable spool. The cable spools where large enough to hold 200ft of 3/8 cable.

Baby Grand · Apr 19, 2014

I'm thinking along the lines of starting with this design, posted by bcp:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DLhwsx9-6FEc
... but it's going way too fast at a notch above idle - there's no way to run a load in slowly in a pull that requires some finesse. So I'd replace the wheel he used as a drum with a sprocket pinion and mount another shaft, say 1.5" diameter solid bar, parallel to the rear end drive axles, with a bull gear to get the desired line speed reduction at a decent engine working speed. The two sprockets would make changing the speed reduction easy, if the first try isn't just right. The parallel shaft would be supported by a pair of pillow block bearings with a section of 4 or 6" pipe welded in the middle with end flanges for a spool. This would put the spool centered between the wheel tracks of the tractor.

I'd keep the brake on the side opposite the sprocket pinion to function as the slip clutch, with a master cylinder & pedal with a pull cord attached to get out of the line of action. Since the sprocket ratio gives an additional speed reduction, the differential could be left open center and still have a good winch line speed.

I think this is close to what mudstopper described as the BigStick?