Wishing I still had a Deere!

[biker128pedal]

Sound like the threads were not tapped all the way through in the pan and the bolt pressure on the unthreaded material got somewhat welded/gauled to the bolt. When you backed out the blt of extra material tore up most of the threads. You were able to hand thread it in a few turns. In hind site you should have stopped when it was hard to remove or when it became hard to turn when installing and then called the dealer.

I have had parts made that this happened. Lucky the shop was able to chase the threads clean and use a new bolt.

There is not real way to place the blame unless you cut it up and inspect it. Most likely they will find an overize bolt to install or use a helicoil.

Mike

 

[Garrabo]

It was never a picnic removing the deck from my Deere x-575, I had to wrestle that the way you are describing on the bota. couldent pull it straight out. scalp wheels hit the tires.

 

[proudestmonkey]

Sound like the threads were not tapped all the way through in the pan and the bolt pressure on the unthreaded material got somewhat welded/gauled to the bolt. When you backed out the blt of extra material tore up most of the threads. You were able to hand thread it in a few turns. In hind site you should have stopped when it was hard to remove or when it became hard to turn when installing and then called the dealer.

I have had parts made that this happened. Lucky the shop was able to chase the threads clean and use a new bolt.

There is not real way to place the blame unless you cut it up and inspect it. Most likely they will find an overize bolt to install or use a helicoil.

Mike

Hindsight is 20/20. Besides, I am not a mechanic, and probably wouldn't have thought anything of it no matter what. Figured its new, never been removed, been in there for who knows how long since this particular one was made, so I wasn't really surprised it was hard to remove the first time.

The mechanic suggested I use a helicoil when I first called. I have no idea what that is. If they just use a larger screw, will that mean I will have the same kind of problem next time I need to change the oil (in a few months)?

 

[AndyMA]

The mechanic suggested I use a helicoil when I first called. I have no idea what that is. If they just use a larger screw, will that mean I will have the same kind of problem next time I need to change the oil (in a few months)?

A helicoil is just like it sounds, a coil of hardened steel wire that has both a controlled inside and outside diameter. The inside diameter is the size of the thread you are trying to repair and obviously the outside is larger. The diameter of the wire is sized to give the coil the same thread pitch as the one you are trying to repair. You drill out the hole to clean up the broken threads and then tap it with a special tap that comes with the helicoil. The helicoil uses a special tool that looks like a rod with a slot that fits over an end of the coil that is bent to cross at the bottom of the coil. It is simply threaded into the newly taped hole, the tool removed and voila, the threads have been replaced. These have been used successfully for many years.

Andy

 

[proudestmonkey]

I bought a B7800 last year. My oil changes take 10 minutes - tops! I almost bought a Deere 790. For my needs, the Kubota was definitely the better choice.

10 minutes to change the oil doesn't surprise me. That's about how long it should take. It took me 5-10 minutes to change the oil on my JD after the first time I did it.

Changing the oil (and doing nothing else) on the BX 2230 would have taken me 10 minutes too (if the drain plug had not been a problem), but changing the oil filter requires that you remove the entire front grille (and of course put it back on when you are done). Not a big deal, but its plastic so you don't want to crack it or scratch it.

 

[Volfandt]

You don't have to remove the engine cowling to R&R the oil filter. When I did the 50 hr on my BX23 I did remove it, mainly because I wanted to give the BX23 a good going over, but when I did the 100 hr I didn't, I easily R&R'ed the oil filter with the cowling on. Took about 15 minutes to do the 100 hr service as I already had the MMM off for the winter.

re. R&R of the MMM. I can remove and/or replace my 60" MMM in about 15 minutes without breaking a sweat. It gets easier with practice.... The trick to spinning that left rear anti scalp wheel is lower (or raise) the MMM to about it's midway point, at this point there is enough clearance to remove the pin and spin the wheel. I also angle the MMM somewhat when I toll it in/out under the BX.

I can understand your frustration with the stripped out oil drain plug. Unfortunately this kind of problem isn't limited to just your BX. It's actually pretty common in auto's.
What likely happened is the plug was cross threaded when it was originally installed with an impact wrench. The BX engines are manufactured in Japan so it was one that slipped through. In any case, it should be repairable and hopefully the dealer will work with you on it.
Good luck
Volfandt

 

[FamilyFarm]

Sorry to hear of your problems!! I've often wished a few things on the BX22 would have been designed differently, but then I marvel at how such a powerful tractor with so many features was designed to be so small and compact. I'm sure to keep it so small required at least some compromises as to where everything was placed. The oil filter doesn't leave much room to work, but I like others have changed it without removing anything. I have not had problems with the drain plug - it's doubtful that is a common problem. I hope your dealer is "on your side" as I suspect it is so uncommon, Kubota will go with the recommendation of the dealer.
Terry

 

[_RaT_]

You know, if the Kubota is in great shape, you will never get more money for it then you can right now. Warranty, no tax to the new buyer, its an attractive option. Sure you will take a loss, but minimize it now and go get that Deere.

 

[proudestmonkey]

Sorry to hear of your problems!! I've often wished a few things on the BX22 would have been designed differently, but then I marvel at how such a powerful tractor with so many features was designed to be so small and compact. I'm sure to keep it so small required at least some compromises as to where everything was placed. The oil filter doesn't leave much room to work, but I like others have changed it without removing anything. I have not had problems with the drain plug - it's doubtful that is a common problem. I hope your dealer is "on your side" as I suspect it is so uncommon, Kubota will go with the recommendation of the dealer.
Terry

Terry,

Good point on the compactness. On the other hand, I used to think the same thing about laptop computers. On my first one, there were 27 steps to removing a hard drive, and I figured that must be just because it all has to fit so well together. My next laptop has one screw and one connector to remove: two steps. My point is that I think if there is a way to do something better, it will eventually get done that way. Hopefully.

 

[Egon]

Oil plug drain plug: Pretty important that it stays in place. If you have any doubts about doing it yourself get the dealer to do the job and make sure it is well documented. You may even want to invest in a torque wrench.

Just as a suggestion without proper knowledge of your tractor setup would jacking up either end and placing it on stands help your situation.

My Kubota B7100 is a charm to change oil on. All filters readily accessible and none in easily hit places. Only complaint I have is that checking the rad level or filling is a little hard with the loader on.