KennyG
Elite Member
I thought about dividing mine but I just fill it and take wood out of it from West to East, keeping at least a narrow opening between the oldest and newest. Seems like the minimum work way to do it.
Wood storage
- Thread starter murphy1244
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I thought about dividing mine but I just fill it and take wood out of it from West to East, keeping at least a narrow opening between the oldest and newest. Seems like the minimum work way to do it.
Zerk
Veteran Member
Ya I divide it in half, for sorting. With the logging that is coming, I aam hoping to get alot of green wood. Not sure when I am goign to get around to making the shed bigger, it is a one of these days things. Filling it up should be my goal first. But I may add a couple posts and add some capacity at some point.
SpringHollow
Elite Member
I hate bending under tarps to get wood - kills my back. So I use two homemade hoop buildings made using chainlink fence top rail. This is an old picture with dried wood. For green wood, I stack it with a vertical pallet between rows to help with air flow. In the center, it gets stacked 6 - 7' high. The smaller building holds about 30 or so face cord. Come winter, I used to pull up tarp sides hung from pipe to fully enclose the sides. I have not done that for the past few years and everything is fine. These buildings have worked well for me for a number of years now. The 24' wide one has additional trussing to support the snow loads we get.
Ken
Ken
MossRoad
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Id like to see some more pictures of that shed if you have them. How'd you bend the fence rail and connect the joints?
SpringHollow
Elite Member
Hi Moss,
Here is where I bought my benders: The Original DY-Series High Tunnel Hoop Bender
The small 12' x 28 building is about 8' + tall with the way I constructed it. Here's a picture with the wood I am burning now on the left and the green wood I am stacking now on the right.
The bigger building is about 22' wide and 24' long and about 12-13' tall. Because it is wider and flatter, it collapsed after a few years because we got almost 3' of heavy snow that I did not know was coming. I had center posts I could install in case of a situation like that arose. So I rebuilt it reusing all of the connectors, the "foundation" and about half of the pipe. This time, I added additional permanent bracing.
I built both using dog kennel/chain link fence connectors, Tees and unions and end rail connectors. There are much cheaper ways to do this - some use galvanized strap, some flatten the ends of braces and screw them on, etc. My way is not cheap. The large one cost $600 to build. But I can reuse/rebuild/alter by using the existing parts and it is reasonably strong. Most making these buildings use them for greenhouses and remove the tarp in the winter so they do not have to worry about snow load. These two buildings have survived 60 mph sustained winds with 80 mph gusts. I have been glad I built them. It was reasonable building by myself. It would have been very easy with another pair of hands. Then I could have sat and watched them build it.
If you decide to build one, I will take more pictures and describe it better.
Ken
Here is where I bought my benders: The Original DY-Series High Tunnel Hoop Bender
The small 12' x 28 building is about 8' + tall with the way I constructed it. Here's a picture with the wood I am burning now on the left and the green wood I am stacking now on the right.
The bigger building is about 22' wide and 24' long and about 12-13' tall. Because it is wider and flatter, it collapsed after a few years because we got almost 3' of heavy snow that I did not know was coming. I had center posts I could install in case of a situation like that arose. So I rebuilt it reusing all of the connectors, the "foundation" and about half of the pipe. This time, I added additional permanent bracing.
I built both using dog kennel/chain link fence connectors, Tees and unions and end rail connectors. There are much cheaper ways to do this - some use galvanized strap, some flatten the ends of braces and screw them on, etc. My way is not cheap. The large one cost $600 to build. But I can reuse/rebuild/alter by using the existing parts and it is reasonably strong. Most making these buildings use them for greenhouses and remove the tarp in the winter so they do not have to worry about snow load. These two buildings have survived 60 mph sustained winds with 80 mph gusts. I have been glad I built them. It was reasonable building by myself. It would have been very easy with another pair of hands. Then I could have sat and watched them build it.
If you decide to build one, I will take more pictures and describe it better.
Ken
SpringHollow
Elite Member
BTW, I wrap the connectors with either the really thin flexible foam insulation or bubble wrap held on with duct tape initially and the last time with electrical ties which was nicer and faster. Wrapping keeps the connectors from wearing holes in the tarp.
Ken
Ken
motownbrowne
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I'm not positive, but I bet a company like BFG Supply or Farmtek could sell you a single piece of poly designed to cover a hoop house (since that's pretty much what you have) pretty cheap. For example, a piece to cover my 30x96 hoop house is about $450, and the plastic has to be a little over 45' wide.
TnAndy
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Nolts Supply in Maryland has greenhouse plastic much cheaper than FarmTek. Website isn't near as nice as Farmtek, but the prices are much better.
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motownbrowne
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Good to know. I'm in the market for new poly for my 14x88 this year.
SpringHollow
Elite Member
The tarps I used are free or cheap because I can afford to have a few leaks. They are used billboard displays. Perfect for the small building but the big one cost me $50 - 100 in glue to glue two together.
Ken
Ken
