Woods gearbox gives out again

[bgott]

I went back and took a closer look at your pictures and I think I see your problem. It looks like they sealed your gearbox with clear silicon. Clear silicon isn't gasket grade, that stuff is for sealing windows and shower stalls. I don't know what it's heat rating is but it's got to be next to zip. If the tech who worked on it used silicon on both sides of the gasket it probably blew a corner out when he tightened it. If you are going to use silicon buy the thick gasket maker stuff and leave the gasket off, if you have a void to fill and want to use a gasket, glue the gasket to the removeable part with gorilla snot ( 3-M weatherstrip adhesive) and let it dry completely. Then use the black, not clear silicon to fill the void. Wet silicon is a lubricant, it will let the gasket blow out. I use black for normal sealing and red for high temp, I believe it looks a little more proffessional that way. Ain't nothin' says a jackleg worked on it like a fat bead of blue or red silicon sticking out around a waterpump or a valve cover! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I am not sure what they used but the workers do know what they are doing. I will see what they used and go from there. However, this is a problem that it has had since new with the original Woods gasket. I will try John's masking tape test and see how it goes.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Well, today has been fun. I had to actually go to work today which was a change of pace so I didn't work on the MD. We were working on a 100' long section of sidewalk in the City of Dunkirk and the 1920 quit working. So after killing a half hour we found out there was a loose wire to the starter. Get that fixed and the day dragged on with problem after problem as we found out the guy who ground out the trees only ground just below the surface. So we had to remove the stump with a axe to get down to our grade (24" stump) Well, I figured when I pulled up today this would be a short day and since I was parked the wrong way on a narrow street I would leave my 4 ways on the truck and trailer just to help make my truck more visible (had the cones set up as well) Well the day dragged on and I forgot how long the 4 ways were on and killed my battery /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Friend went and got a set of cables and I was up and going again. Had the 1920 loaded behind me and the second intersection I encountered I cut too short and nailed the curb blowing out the front right tire on the trailer /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif I have hit curbs before but didn't hurt the tire or rim and this time I bent the crap out of the rim. Of course now the rim is hitting the road and I block up the trailer, remove the wheel, and the hub is barely clearing the road which ain't good since I am on rough roads. So I have to unload the 1920 in the middle of Dunkirk and wait for my father to come drive it back as I don't have a spare for my trailer (lesson learned there /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif)

Anyway, I get home and of course there is the usual bills in the mail /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif but at least I got a e-mail back from Kirt about the MD and he recommends removing the ball valve so I guess I am going to rid myself of that and see if that clears it up (fingers crossed) I don't want to start the TN today because I figure it will blow up with the way my day has gone so far /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Here is the e-mail I got from Kirt. Take care.


Robert,
when you say the gearbox is overheating, do you know how hot it is getting.
It's not uncommon for those boxes to run 150 to 180 degrees. You can't hold
your hand on 135 degree object so unless the paint is discolored it may not
be running to hot. The bearings and seals will stand 250 degrees continuous.
Drilling out the vent plug is good but it also has a 3 psi check ball in
that little hex plug that is screwed into the pipe plug. If you haven't
already you should remove the ball and make it open beather. You can install
a cotter pin in the hole to prevent dirt and water from getting in the box
and it will still allow the pressure to vent out.

Kirt

 

[Robert_in_NY]

It is a blue silicone that they used, however, I am taking the top off the gearbox to inspect it and go over everything. Clean it up and reseal it with black silicone and remove the ball valve from the vent. Then let it sit for a day or two to set up and take it for a spin.

 

[djradz]

Robert, blue (especially Ultra-Blue) is one of the best sealant-gasket maker compounds for use in oil or hydraulic fluid applications. I wouldn't replace it with Black. Go to an auto-parts store and ask for Locktite Ultra-Blue. It's good to almost 500 degrees F. That's probably what they used, but it the pressure was too great, it still may have leaked.

 

[DavidJ]

I always opt for not using anything but a proper gasket unless absolutely needed.

If I do use sealant I apply a thin bead and mate the parts by finger tightening the fasteners and letting it set several hours, overnight if I can, then torquing to spec. If you torque it wet it will squeeze the sealant out and possibly the gasket too.

Be sure to use the proper sealant for the job. Use sealant designed for the fluid required at the stated temp.

 

[MikePA]

Robert, how's the cutter? Still leaking oil?

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I have not used it since I resealed the top of the gear box. Been too busy and have got my fields chopped. I will update everyone who cares this fall when we do our final cutting around the farm. Thanks for asking though.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Here is an update. Since the last time I had the gearbox repaired I have kept checking on the oil and making sure nothing has wrapped around the spindle coming out the bottom. Never have had anything wrap around there but it doesn't hurt to check. Anyway, I had the chopper hooked to the TN in the driveway today and noticed the bottom seal went out again.

I did get 4 years out of the seal this time

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Here is an update. Since the last time I had the gearbox repaired I have kept checking on the oil and making sure nothing has wrapped around the spindle coming out the bottom. Never have had anything wrap around there but it doesn't hurt to check. Anyway, I had the chopper hooked to the TN in the driveway today and noticed the bottom seal went out again.

I did get 4 years out of the seal this time

What sort of luck have you had with the input shaft and bearings on that mower? I've had an MD172 for close to 5 years and have had to replace 2 input shafts. This last one is in year 3. The mower goes away this winter. Replacing it with a Bush Hog 6'er.