Woodsplitter build #2

[6sunset6]

It's hard to see but the pivot attachment for the end of the cylinder on the lift frame is above the bottom of the main beam. It was difficult to figure out the most efficient location of the pivots with out a cad program. With that pivot where it is , there is a limit as to how horizontal the cylinder can be. I can move the base back a little but that's all. With out taking it all apart and making major changes. I don't want to do that. I was very concerned about the 4" stroke and running out of stroke. The cylinder is 3.5 diameter. Plenty of force .
I worked with a crew using solidworks for 3 years. Pretty nice program but pricey for home use. I have never been able to get sketchup to do what I want. Other people have said the same thing.

 

[Scooby074]

yeah i can see your kinda stuck with your system barring a major redesign. I just didnt want you to be finished and find you cant lift a full load on your lifter. I can load mine right up with lots of rounds before i lift it up.

No question SW isnt cheap. Im lucky to have it. And honestly i cant get Sketchup to work for me either. It doesnt work the way i "think".

 

[6sunset6]

I think as long as the cylinder motion does not jam in it's travel , which it does not, then the load should not be a problem. It's all inch-pounds.
If the load is 300# at 24 inches then the load is 7400 inch #.
IF the hydraulic cylinder push point is 1.5 inches off the pivot then the load on the cylinder is 7400/1.5 is 4933 #
The cylinder is 3.5" diam Area is 9.6 sq in. At 2000 psi 19200 #
Pretty much 4x I could put 600# on the loader and still be 2x to the good.
I think I have to worry more about welds ripping apart and members bending than not enough force. I guess if that happens I will be in redesign anyway.
First I have to remember to finish welding everything that is tacked.

 

[6sunset6]

I bit the bullet and ground out the tacks on the vertical member of the lift cylinder anchor. Moved it back around 3 inches. Moved the bolted sections around a bit and I think it's fine now. Just above horizontal on lift and about an inch of travel left on the cylinder when down. A little more horizontal element to the cylinder. I think there is plenty of room for the cylinder fittings on the back side. I also finished the plumbing on the pump unit. Relief valve is installed.
I have a gage port on the pressure line out of the pump. I do not plan on leaving the gage installed there. I have one permanently installed on the beam. I do not plan on a valve or QD when I disconnect the gage on the pump unit. It is a 3/8 jic fitting with a plug when the gage is not there.
Question IF the pump unit is stand alone that is the hoses are not hooked up to the beam and the pump is running, gage in place, and oil is returning to the tank over the relief valve. If I shut it down and disconnect the gage, is there pressure in the line? The pump is a 2 stage pump , does it have a check valve that would maintain pressure against the relief valve and or do the gears allow pressure to bleed off if the pump is not turning?
Pictures tomorrow.

This is not air and the pump is not turning. Oil is not compressible. The only pressure that could be there is from hoses returning to nominal. Crack the fitting with a rag over it and it is gone. I must have had air on my brain.

 

[Scooby074]

i think you did the right thing by moving the cyl. Its probably going to work better in the end.

If the hoses are disconnected and your bypassing through your "safety" bypass, then you'll still have pressure in the upstream side of the bypass (at the instant of shutdown). The downstream (after) the bypass should have no pressure as it dumps to tank.

 

[6sunset6]

yeah I was worried about disconnecting the gage. But if the pump is not running there cannot be much there.

 

[6sunset6]

Pictures See those logs Oak and Maple and those are the small ones.
See the little log splitter Thats why I need a bigger one.
Relief valve installed Funny thing about plumbing fittings. Turn them until they point the way you want and then worry about another 360d or will they leak.
I could put oil in the thing now but I am nervous. Think I will wait till I do a little more work on it. Electrial stuff and casters . Casters cause I have them and then can push the power supply outside and leak there instead of inside on the floor.
On the lifter I had something crooked and I could not stand it. It was one of the tiebars at 45d between the pivot and the log holder. Had to cut it out and tack it back in. Of course it changed the stroke positions on the cylinder AGAIN.
UP is now just horizontal and down can go a little more into the dirt. Will make the lifter flush at ground level.. I have adjustment up if I want to go that way. I think it's done. Next nice day I will take it outside and weld away.

 

[Scooby074]

yeah I was worried about disconnecting the gage. But if the pump is not running there cannot be much there.

Why do you want to disconnect the gauge? Id leave it there full time, they arent that expensive.

There will be pressure there until it bleeds down. The relief will close at its set pressure, disconnecting the tank. The only way it can bleed down will be back through the pump, which could be a slow process. Of course when the splitter is hooked up, and the machine s turned off, you'll have an open path back to tank, so no buildup.

This pressure buildup can happen on equipment. Hoses can be next to impossible to plug / unplug with pressurized fluid in them. You may have to go and manually push the disconnect in to bleed off the pressure.

 

[6sunset6]

I have a gage permanently installed out on the beam. I only need a gage on pump line to set the relief valve. But you are right, they are cheap. In fact I have an old one around here that the fluid turned yellow in but it still can be read. I should just install that one and leave it in.
I have a diverter valve on the FEL for a grapple jaw and plow angle.. Those fittings are set up to plug into each other when disconnected. I still have to release pressure most of the time when hooking them up.
Jason you have helpful comments, Thanks.

 

[6sunset6]

I Slow progress Cold out If I don't get the woodstove running by 10am I am not going to get 4 hours in. Went out to lunch with my wife yesterday. Killed the day for work but the lunch and the company was great.
So First picture My old gage. Face plate was so yellow it was hard to see and the needle was wrong side of zero. So I took it apart. Did anyone know the whole case is filled with gycerine. I think the needle was the wrong side of zero is because it was so cold. It only went to 2000 psi anyway.
Second picture Electrical switch and hour meter done. Not a great bracket but it works and I am getting tired and cold.
3rd pic cover The switch cover did not work right. I was really annoyed because just before the motor on a TSC 6" cut off saw blew up. And I mean just that It went BANG and caught fire at the vent slots on the front end. I just got it a couple of weeks ago. Don't have the receipt so maybe ,if I am lucky they will exchange it. Back to the switch cover , Not enough throw to go from on to off. So I cut the pins off , Works ok now.
4th pic Finished the mount for the log lift cylinder
5th pic cut all the pipe for the out feed table
6th pic Log lift pivot s
7th pic wheels Have to figuire out how to best mount them on the power supply. Unit is a little top heavy with no oil so I will spread the wheels to the out side. Trip hazard but cannot be helped.