work light w/ switch

[jimg]

Ive put it off too long...I need a work light for the tractor but would like something heavy duty w/ a switch. Ive looked around some but can find this combination...either its light duty w/ a switch or heavy duty w/o. Any leads would be appreciated. BTW my defn of heavy duty is something thats armored enough to take a few whacks w/o failing or falling apart prematurely.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

I put on a Speaker "900" light. It is the standard rear auxilary light used by New Holland.

Speaker is an independant company, the light is a heavy duty plastic case with a waterproofed heavy duty switch built into the top of it. I believe the light cost me about $30 or $35 from the NH dealer. You can probably find the same light at other sources as well. I don't know the wattage, but the light is very bright and throws a good even pattern white beam.

 

[Ledgemere Farm]

The dealer installed worklight for a Cub Cadet was around $75. I bought a nice worklight from NAPA for $9, and a switch from VIP for less than $5. It took me about 30 minutes to install it. It is fully fused and only works when the key is on.

 

[PineRidge]

Hey Bob how about a picture of the NH light? You now have my attention as well.

 

[Tractors4u]

Bob,

I tried looking up Speaker brand lights on the internet and couldn't find a web page for them. I noticed the flashers on my Deere are Speaker brand. I first noticed it at the dealership. The red lights on my ROPS have a black face on the front of them and I saw speaker written on them. My first though was "hey this is where the speakers go when you install the stereo". It had the salesman trying figure it out and whether Deere offered a sound system.

 

[Soundguy]

I've put rear lights on all my tractors.. the antiques.. I stayed 'original looking'.. just glass lenses.. no armor.. but my NH 1920 got a rectangular light in a heavy abs plastic housing, with rock guard front.

Light was less that 20$ and had mounting hardware. I recomend either a heavy duty headlight style switch, or a light duty switch and an automotive relay. Lots of times you can find a light wireing kit for adding like say.. foglights to a car.. has a 10 or 15 amp relay and a switch and some wire.

Radio shack carries an auto relay plastic housing with spade terminals for about 5 bucks... 15 amps.. 12v... But most tractor / farm stores have them too.


Use a good gauge wire.. like 10, etc.

Also... either use a switch with a fuse.. or add an inline fuse, and some wire loom might help protect that wiring.

My NH1920 has great ground clearance.. so i used spiral wrap wire loom.. however my 8n really gets down in the brush.. so I used the metal flexible conduit like house wire uses.. etc.
Excelent cable armor..

Soundguy

Soundguy

 

[jimg]

Great! Does this come w/ the correct connector to plug into the prewired pigtail (on my 24D its this way)? Where does the dealer mount the light?

 

[Bob_Skurka]

If you have a TC24D then you might save yourself a lot of trouble and just buy the factory specified light and bracket for one simple reason, it takes 5 minutes to install, and that includes tapping it into your wiring. Also, it is waterproof so you don't need to worry about weather causing you problems.

The Speaker brand light requires a $5 bracket from NH. When I went, they had the light in stock but the bracket was not in, it only took a few days, you might want to call your dealer before visiting.

The light requires you to connect one wire to the Aux wire that is located at the base of the right side of your ROPS. You should find a loose wire somewhere over there with a rubber cap on it. You might need to get a push style connector to add to the end of the wire that comes out of the light, I am not sure if it came with one or if I had one. The other wire that comes out of the light is a ground wire and you can simply tighten it directly to the bolt that holds the light to the mounting bracket. It is idiot proof . . . and I am a living example of an idiot being able to wire it up. The whole project took 5 or 6 minutes. The bracket mounts to one of the ROPS base bolts.

 

[jimg]

Just talked to my NH dealer and he stocks a round and square light w/ switch. Neither comes w/ a connector but they do have mounts. If you dont mind could you give me the item # of your light and mount pls. Thanx jimg

 

[Bob_Skurka]

jmg, I don't have that information, but do a search on the topic and you will find it, I posted it somewhere for someone else who asked. I know the bracket part number is in your owners manual. I had to have the parts guy at the local dealership pull out the parts book to look up the light part number, but I remember it was a Speaker brand, model 900.

Also, if you do a search in the Customization forum for adding a toolbox to a class 1 boomer you will find my thread about how I installed a toolbox behind my seat. There are pictures that show the light mounted next to the toolbox, I had to offset my toolbox so that I could use the factory light bracket. But if you look it up, you will see what you are shopping for.

 

[pekabu]

Hi Jim. Chappell has a bunch of lights out front, but I didn't see any with the switch built in, maybe they are out back. Stop by and check out my installation. I will post pictures later. I did end up buying my lights from Chappel.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

jimg & PineRidge . . . here is the link to my toolbox project for my TC24D. I have several pictures posted on the thread, look at the second and third postings, I believe you will see the light and the bracket. On the top of the light is the built in waterproof switch for the light. Sorry, but there is no view of the wiring.

Boomer Customer Toolbox with the NH rear Aux light mounted next to it.

 

[pekabu]

Hi Jim, here is a link to a web site with some pictures of my setup.

Parts list:
1. Two Light switches
2. Lamp Cord, Black two line Home Depot
3. Black Zip Ties from Radio Shack
4. Black stick on Zip tie Hold Downs from Radio Shack
5. Angle iron
6. Two bolts/nuts Ace
7. Black Paint Chappel
8. Two lights

You can see the black zip tie hold downs holding the lamp cord to the ROPS in the pictures.

Lights on TC24d

 

[PineRidge]

Hey pekabu thats a pretty nice looking project. Is that a TSC lamp?

 

[pekabu]

I believe they are either Peterson or JW Speakers. I put the rear one on first it's smaller, a 35watt. Then I put on the front one a 55 watt.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

pekabu...on your switches, I have a couple of the same ones and will be using them for my ROPS lights, they have 3 contacts on the back of them, but they did not come with instructions on how to connect them. Can you tell me what wire you connected to which contact? Positive to ? Negative to ? Ground ? etc . . .

 

[jimg]

Heres the postmortem on how it all worked out:

First, I really liked some of the DIY configurations presented in this thread but Im terribly pressed for time at the moment. So, I opted to go w/ the NH parts instead of rolling my own. Thank you very much to all who responded!

The parts you need are:
1) mounting bracket SBA355761281
My dealer doesnt stock this part and special ordered it. Oddly enough the brack is made in Japan! Dont we make anything here anymore????
2) Light w/ built in switch...made by Speaker. The label reads 900F-1/H9406-12
V AGRI-BRITE
1229985
Molded into the plastic case is PN 6342340.
Not sure which part of that the NH dealer uses as a part no. The light comes w/ a loop connector for ground, and male & female push connectors for the hot lead. Additonally the lamp is mounted on a bracket that allows horizontal and vertical movement.

How to wire it:
My tractor (TC24D) is prewired for a worklight on the left fender. First, strip and crimp the male push connect to one of the leads coming out of the work light. Strip and crimp the loop connector onto the other. The loop connector isnt big enough to let the ROPS bolt thru so I expanded it by making a cut in it then pulling the halves gently outward. Attach the mounting braket to the lamp and tighten. Undo the rear interior ROPS bolt on the left side of the tractor. Slip the bolt thru the mounting bracket, loop connector and then into the fender. Rethread the bolt/lock washer and tighten. Take the rubber guard off the prewired work light lead and push the connectors together. Youre done.

This light is nice and bright (as much as I could determine in full day light) and looks like its in a useful location. We're supposed to get snow again this w/e so Ill let you know how well it all works out if Im out after dark.

 

[PineRidge]

Jimg if you can post a picture of your mounted work lamp we would like to see it. Thanks!

 

[jimg]

One pt I forgot to make...I think the loop connector really was meant to be attached to the threaded barrel coming out of the lamp (the one w/ the wires running thru it). I opted to apttach it to the ROPS bolt. Anyplace would be fine just as long as its attached to ground. So, its not strictly necessary to expand the loop connector like I did.

 

[jimg]

Heres a picture of the wiring. Im planning to reroute ground though to the threaded barrel on the lamp. Locating it there will keep it out of the way.

Tonight when I got home (after dark...in NE in the winter it always seems to be after dark) I tryed out the light. WOW!! Its nice and bright for sure.