Workbench top

[PILOON]

2" stock, ie 2 x 8, 2 x 10 and well screwed down, even bolted as it might warp.
Cover with replaceable plywood or masonite for when it get too beat up.

Solid laminated entry doors also make a good top but add that 'wear' skin.

 

[mike69440]

See Photo's

I can't believe a 30' long workbench used almost $500 in materials. I have enough left over for an L shaped bench on the opposite wall, but still expensive. Tempered Masonite glued on over planks makes the top . Once it warms up it will get a couple of coats of poly and I'll paint the wood gloss light grey or green.

Then I'll unpack all my tools and junk.

 

[Robb71]

My work bench is a 3/4 plywood with a metal skin folded over the edges. Works well for me and takes a decent amount of abuse.

 

[countrybumpkin]

I have a 20 foot counter along the wall in my shop , I used a heavy built counter top with the back splash built into it the whole length, I also mounted a sink in it for cleaning up. Works really nice and easy to keep clean, for any extreme work, or really heavy items I have a 4 ft X 4 ft Roll-around steel table with 3/8 plate for the top. Just wipe down with a small amount of oil now and then to keep the rust away.

 

[CompactTractorFan]

I was 10 when the newly Retired Navy Commander moved into the area in a home he had bought years ago for retirement... the first thing he did was build a proper work bench.

The neighbors thought it was a neat solid design and many copied it...

The bench and house are now mine... bought the home several years ago and the bench is still rock solid... the home being of 1956 vintage not so much so.

Neat. Do you have a picture?

 

[gc2310]

I've always used old solid core doors covered with bent edge aluminum. Nice and solid and the aluminum doesn't scratch.

 

[debo1683]

I just built a workbench and used some old maple gym flooring i got for free to top it. I haven't done anything with it yet because the poly takes about 4 days to dry in this cold weather and just got my second coat on.

Took quite a while to do once you account for sawing the tongue and groove off and planing the old finish off. But I think it will work out ok. ... not to mention the price was right

 

[Zick]

Here's what I did.

 

[robs660]

I built 2 benches in my shop. Both tops are built out of 4x4 doug fir that I plane straight. I joined everything with 1/2 lap joints. The legs are built out of 3" black pipe. I like the 4x4s so that when I mount a vise it is super solid. Tops are made of 3/4 ply with 1/8' masonite on 1/2 and the other 1/2 is 1/8 steel plate so I can weld and cut on it.

 

[eddy622611]

I used oak tongue and groove flooring. You can buy it unfinished for around a $1.00 a sq.ft. I can't remember what I finished it with, but it has held up well going on 30 years. eddy622611

 

[ace10]

Thanks for all the replies and pics too!

A couple of comments and questions...

My workbench is not a primary workspace. It's for the odd job that won't need many tools. I don't store much beyond my machines and surplus goods in that building. It's not very good "work" space.

My base construction has two overhangs. First the large one to the right, but also the front has about a 2 1/2" lip from that 2X8 laid on its side.


For those that have used a hardwood, either strip flooring or tread or whatever... how did you fasten it down? Did you use a "subfloor"?

For the metal topped benches, is everyone just using cheap HVAC sheetmetal?

Anyone have an opinion on using cement board (like Hardie backer as opposed to Durock)? It would probably have to have some angle iron on the edges, but I could see that lasting a long time if it had 3/4" ply underneath.

I'm not sold on butting dimensional lumber together for the top. The only plus for that option would be not needing a seam due to the >8' length. But I can see having to belt sand all that area to get rid of the eased corners of each stick.

Anyway, thanks again. I hope this thread will provide some good ideas for folks who are thinking about building a nice sturdy workbench.

 

[czechsonofagun]

I used just 2x6 for mine, but there are several options. Like the Coop in Marshal sells oak boards (1.5") for trailer flooring. That would be a great bench top.

Or Grizzly Ind. carries maple glued bench tops for OK price, check them out.

 

[ace10]

I used just 2x6 for mine, but there are several options. Like the Coop in Marshal sells oak boards (1.5") for trailer flooring. That would be a great bench top.
...

I agree that I like the idea of a nice chunky oak. Is the T&G? Marshall's an easy drive south for me.

I see plenty of 1X6 rough sawn fence rails, but by the time it's planed down it'd be nothing.

 

[EddieWalker]

My first workebench was a thing of beauty. My second work bench was also just short of cabinet grade. Then I started cutting corners and not spending very much time building them. I found that in spec homes, I could put a simple work bench in the shop and it helped sell the house. Now I just use OSB for the top and trim the edges with 1/4's.

Worse case is that I destroy it and have to spned $8 on a new piece of OSB. I've never had to do that yet, but it's an option if I ever have to.

Eddie

 

[ultrarunner]

I'm not sold on butting dimensional lumber together for the top. The only plus for that option would be not needing a seam due to the >8' length. But I can see having to belt sand all that area to get rid of the eased corners of each stick.

The face butted 2x material was run through a large planer

 

[brt]

I was at a yard sale buying used cabinets and saw a 3' x 6' piece of 1 3/4 thick maple butcher block in the back of the garage. The owner said he forgot that he had it and I got it for $15! When I built a workbench around it my wife commented that it was a piece of furniture not a work table. I cut a piece of 1/4" masonite to protect the center of it when doing major pounding. It has held up well.

 

[CompactTractorFan]

I was at a yard sale buying used cabinets and saw a 3' x 6' piece of 1 3/4 thick maple butcher block in the back of the garage. The owner said he forgot that he had it and I got it for $15! When I built a workbench around it my wife commented that it was a piece of furniture not a work table. I cut a piece of 1/4" masonite to protect the center of it when doing major pounding. It has held up well.

They actually sell butcher blocks for workbench tops...:thumbsup:

 

[nickel plate]

Thanks for all the replies and pics too!
A couple of comments and questions...
Anyone have an opinion on using cement board (like Hardie backer as opposed to Durock)? It would probably have to have some angle iron on the edges, but I could see that lasting a long time if it had 3/4" ply underneath.

I would not use any type of cement board as a top ply working surface due to the possibility of it cracking or chipping. I'm very pleased with good old 1/4" (+-) tempered Masonite at a far less cost.

 

[BRB Hand]

I topped mine with pieces of scap plywood and then covered that with Pre finished Hardwood flooring scraps, It's bombproof! Random colors but looks good. If a board gets too abused I just cut it out and drop a new one in.

 

[dddenden]

I agree with Nickel Plate - stay away from cement board. It is too abrasive, brittle, hard to cut, dusty, etc......... I made several from scrap waterbeds. Usually straight 2x6s and or 2x8s, stained and finished.