Wounded

[etpm]

Generally a key is not supposed to take all the load. You can, and should, cut a new keyway. Or weld up and re-cut the original keyway. But the shaft looks like the coupling spun on it. This means that any coupling is not going to fit properly on that chewed up surface. The shaft needs to be machined smooth so a new coupling will fit snugly. The new coupling should ideally clamp to the shaft. Why did the first key fail? Was the coupling loose? Was the coupling subjected to an unusual shock load? You need to know why the first key failed before you put the motor back into service so that the repaired shaft doesn't fail.
Eric, who has repaired many keyed shafts.

 

[Tchamp]

Generally a key is not supposed to take all the load. You can, and should, cut a new keyway. Or weld up and re-cut the original keyway. But the shaft looks like the coupling spun on it. This means that any coupling is not going to fit properly on that chewed up surface. The shaft needs to be machined smooth so a new coupling will fit snugly. The new coupling should ideally clamp to the shaft. Why did the first key fail? Was the coupling loose? Was the coupling subjected to an unusual shock load? You need to know why the first key failed before you put the motor back into service so that the repaired shaft doesn't fail.
Eric, who has repaired many keyed shafts.

I had to really work to get the love joy coupling off of the shafr, it really didnt have any side to side play i was considering drilling through the lovejoy and the pump shaft at the same time then tapping the hole through the lovejoy and pump shaft. Running bolt through and using loctite red. It has two lthreaded allen locks that i can use to pin the shaft to keep from moving side to side (see pic) and i think that would solve my problem untill i can come up with the cash to rebuild the tram pump at a later time.

 

[etpm]

I had to really work to get the love joy coupling off of the shafr, it really didnt have any side to side play i was considering drilling through the lovejoy and the pump shaft at the same time then tapping the hole through the lovejoy and pump shaft. Running bolt through and using loctite red. It has two lthreaded allen locks that i can use to pin the shaft to keep from moving side to side (see pic) and i think that would solve my problem untill i can come up with the cash to rebuild the tram pump at a later time. View attachment 2685652

The reason the coupling was hard to remove and didn't have much side to side play is because the coupling spun on the shaft and both the shaft and coupling have raised portions as well as depressed portions and the raised portions coincided, making removal difficult. Considering how much one of the motors cost I see no reason to not have a competent machinist repair the shaft as long as the motor internals are OK. The shaft needs to be turned so that it is once again round and the surface is at least 80% complete. Your machinist can source a new clamping Lovejoy type coupling and bush it if necessary for a good fit. Or the shaft could be built up with weld, though I would avoid that if it were my shaft, just because it may weaken the shaft. In any case the motor will require disassembly to make the repair. This is a good opportunity to asses the motor internals. Maybe even find out why the coupling spun on the shaft. If the motor is fine inside then repairing the shaft will save you a bunch of money. In my career as a machinist with over 45 years experience I have done many repairs on hydraulic pump and motor shafts.
Eric

 

[Huntinguy]

Etpm is dead on.
Without remachining there will be no repair.
It is possible to cut another keyway 90 degrees to the failed one. A good welder could buildup the corner of the keyway without doing much damage to the shaft. But, again, that doesn't fix the damaged shaft. Without the shaft repaired...it will fail again.
The proper way to fix it: pull the shaft, grind the shaft, chrome the shaft, regrind the shaft, recut the key.
Repaired a few in my day.

 

[2manyrocks]

If you have to tear it down to machine the shaft, that seems like the time to rebuild the internals if the parts can be had.

 

[m5040]

The proper way to fix it: pull the shaft, grind the shaft, chrome the shaft, regrind the shaft, recut the key.

What would expect this to cost?

 

[etpm]

What would expect this to cost?

I don't know the exact cost because I don't live where you do and I have been retired for a while, plus it depends on how thick the chrome plating would need to be. There are also other plating methods for building up worn shafts that don't involve chrome. But if it was my shaft I would lean toward just cleaning up the shaft, cutting a new key way, and making a Lovejoy type coupling fit. They can be bought with just a pilot hole and are made for machining to size. After boring to size a key way is then broached to suit. Any competent machine shop that does shafting work will have the correct cutters for making key ways as well as a set of broaches for making key ways in bores. I have a couple broaching sets still in my shop and have made many custom broach guides for odd sized and tapered bores. And my shop was not unique by any means.
Eric

 

[MossRoad]

What would expect this to cost?

$5900...

Just kidding.

 

[Tchamp]

I am considering buying another machine if i could find a good donor or good deal on a good used unit

 

[etpm]

I am considering buying another machine if i could find a good donor or good deal on a good used unit

If you were to repair that shaft today, if it was removed from the motor, the cost would be less than $600.00. I would think it that the price in Georgia would be less.
Eric