WR long valve installed

[MadReferee]

Would anyone care to share how much their valve kit cost from WR Long? I was just quoted $3400 plus shipping for the valve kit and a 66” 4in1 bucket from Long. That was 7 or 8 hundred more than I expected. Unfortunately I did not get a separate quote for just the valve kit.

My third function valve kit was $519 + shipping. The diverter kit was $438 + shipping. My local JD dealer charged full MSRP that Nelson Long had quoted me.

 

[MarkV]

Thank-you Mr. MadReferee.

MarkV

 

[wickedinhere]

I paid 539.00 shipped to me from carver equipment. Here is a pic of my grapple i added to my bucket it works great i have around 1000.00 total in it. I dont know if you wanted to add a grapple to your bucket or just get a whole new grapple but the price was way to much for me to get a complete grapple.

 

[MikeB44]

Would anyone care to share how much their valve kit cost from WR Long? I was just quoted $3400 plus shipping for the valve kit and a 66” 4in1 bucket from Long. That was 7 or 8 hundred more than I expected. Unfortunately I did not get a separate quote for just the valve kit.

MarkV

An ATI 4n1 60" HJ2 bucket for my Kubota L3010 was quoted at $2500 installed locally. The joystick/valve kit was $500 of the $2500.

 

[n8wrl]

I have one of these on order as well and plan to install it myself. I have a hydraulics-newbie question - do you have to fill the valves or hoses with fluid before or after hooking them up? Do they have to be 'bled'? like brake lines? (I've never done that either...) Do the WR Long installation instructions go to this level of detail?

Thanks!

-Brian

 

[kennyd]

do you have to fill the valves or hoses with fluid before or after hooking them up? Do they have to be 'bled'? like brake lines?

No bleeding is necessary, the line will purge them themselves.

 

[MadReferee]

I have one of these on order as well and plan to install it myself. I have a hydraulics-newbie question - do you have to fill the valves or hoses with fluid before or after hooking them up?

No.

Do they have to be 'bled'? like brake lines? (I've never done that either...)

Your tractor hydraulics are self bleeding. Just operate the valve/cylinder to it's limits in both directions a couple of times and the air will go away.

Do the WR Long installation instructions go to this level of detail?

Nope.

 

[n8wrl]

Thanks so much! Just shows what I know, eh? I'm trying to wrap my brain around this system - it seems like some volume of fluid is pumped around, and by adding hoes/implements/valves/etc. Is there a resevoir like engine coolant that gets 'drained' to fill this volume? I imagine there is some maximum volume the tractor can service?

-Brian

 

[MadReferee]

of fluid is pumped around, and by adding hoes/implements/valves/etc. Is there a resevoir like engine coolant that gets 'drained' to fill this volume? I imagine there is some maximum volume the tractor can service?

Yes, it's the same reservoir that is used for your HST and loader. Once you have installed the valve and bled the lines you will probably have to put some small amount of fluid in the reservoir. Read your operators manual, it's all in there.

 

[schmism]

i thought there was a review out there for a milzoli (or something like that) 48" root grapple type bucket for like $600 or something insanely cheep like that.

 

[n8wrl]

That's what I've ordered, but it isn't that cheap. I'm happy with the price but the hydraulics is a pre-req.

 

[jmc]

Would anyone care to share how much their valve kit cost from WR Long?

MarkV

My WR Long valve kit for a Kubota LA853 loader was $570 plus $25 shipping, earlier this year.

 

[uphill]

WICKEDINHERE,
I need an update on how your grapple and setup performs.
Are you happy with it, does it work great?
Does the grapple get in the way when turning the bucket lip straight down to push stuff?
Can the grapple be remove easily and quickly?
Is one grapple enough rather than using 2 grapples?
I've wanted a grapple so long I can practically taste it!
Your setup looks like what I think I need.
Thanks....

 

[Dougster]

My third function valve kit was $519 + shipping. The diverter kit was $438 + shipping. My local JD dealer charged full MSRP that Nelson Long had quoted me.

Just to end an old man's confusion... Is the third function kit you mention what Long calls their "Electric Hydraulic Valve Kit"? And is the diverter kit you mention what Long calls their "Selector Valve Kit"? Is my understanding correct that the "Electric Hydraulic Valve Kit" lives somewhere on the tractor whereas the "Selector Valve Kit" lives on the loader? Is this the main difference in installation?

Since there is little difference in price or purpose... when should one go with one vs. the other? Or is it strictly a matter of personal preference? Must be some advantage to one over the other in certain cases if they still offer both... yes?

Lastly, are the prices you mention direct from WR Long or from another source? Does the cost of additionally required installation parts vary much between the two?

Dougster

 

[MadReferee]

Just to end an old man's confusion... Is the third function kit you mention what Long calls their "Electric Hydraulic Valve Kit"? And is the diverter kit you mention what Long calls their "Selector Valve Kit"? Is my understanding correct that the "Electric Hydraulic Valve Kit" lives somewhere on the tractor whereas the "Selector Valve Kit" lives on the loader? Is this the main difference in installation?

The Electric/Hydraulic kit is a true third function because it's a complete spool valve connected in series with the loader valve. Instead of having another lever, it's operated electrically. The valve itself mounts just below the existing loader valve on a WR Long supplied bracket.

The selector valve is also electrically operated but is connected to the work ports of one of the spools on the loader valve. It switches the function (usually curl) from the loader bucket to the grapple. The selector mounts on the loader arm near the bucket.

Since there is little difference in price or purpose... when should one go with one vs. the other? Or is it strictly a matter of personal preference? Must be some advantage to one over the other in certain cases if they still offer both

Ah, but there is a big difference. As I stated above the selector switches between a loader function and the grapple. The electric/hydraulic valve gives you another function which may be used simultaneously with the loader functions. This may not seem to matter much but it is a more flexible option and according to Nelson Long, is the most popular option.

Lastly, are the prices you mention direct from WR Long or from another source? Does the cost of additionally required installation parts vary much between the two?

WR Long does not sell direct. The prices quoted are MSRP. My local JD/WR Long dealer charged me MSRP and made his profit from that price. Your dealer's mileage may vary.

The kits contain just about everything you will need for a basic installation, hoses, fittings, mounting plate, valve. However, most people like to customize the installation a bit to suite their individual tastes and situations. I replaced the supplied hoses and fittings with a different setup so the disconnects were at the loader instead of the valve.

You are welcome to visit and inspect my installation.

 

[Dougster]

The Electric/Hydraulic kit is a true third function because it's a complete spool valve connected in series with the loader valve. Instead of having another lever, it's operated electrically. The valve itself mounts just below the existing loader valve on a WR Long supplied bracket.

The selector valve is also electrically operated but is connected to the work ports of one of the spools on the loader valve. It switches the function (usually curl) from the loader bucket to the grapple. The selector mounts on the loader arm near the bucket.

Ah, but there is a big difference. As I stated above the selector switches between a loader function and the grapple. The electric/hydraulic valve gives you another function which may be used simultaneously with the loader functions. This may not seem to matter much but it is a more flexible option and according to Nelson Long, is the most popular option.

WR Long does not sell direct. The prices quoted are MSRP. My local JD/WR Long dealer charged me MSRP and made his profit from that price. Your dealer's mileage may vary.

The kits contain just about everything you will need for a basic installation, hoses, fittings, mounting plate, valve. However, most people like to customize the installation a bit to suite their individual tastes and situations. I replaced the supplied hoses and fittings with a different setup so the disconnects were at the loader instead of the valve.

You are welcome to visit and inspect my installation.

Thanks for the clarification Mad. Sounds like they have to be ordered specifically for a particular tractor/FEL... but come fairly complete and ready to go. That's good to know.

I hear you clearly on the operational advantage and popularity of the Electric Hydraulic Valve Kit... makes sense and I'll probably go that way... but I am still not clear on when someone should choose the Selector Valve Kit. There must be a reason that Long still offers it... and it can't just be to save customers $81.00. Any comments on that? Would the Selector Valve Kit work better on certain machines... perhaps those with very limited hydraulic flow? Are they faster/easier to install? Or again, is it strictly a matter of personal preference?

Dougster

 

[MadReferee]

Thanks for the clarification Mad. Sounds like they have to be ordered specifically for a particular tractor/FEL... but come fairly complete and ready to go. That's good to know.

Only the mounting plate and maybe the hose lengths are different between tractor/loader models.

but I am still not clear on when someone should choose the Selector Valve Kit. There must be a reason that Long still offers it... and it can't just be to save customers $81.00. Any comments on that? Would the Selector Valve Kit work better on certain machines... perhaps those with very limited hydraulic flow? Are they faster/easier to install? Or again, is it strictly a matter of personal preference?

Going with a selector valve instead of the E/H valve has to do mostly with mounting and plumbing considerations and your pocket book. For most CUTS that have loader frame mounted loader valves, the E/H setup would be the choice. Cab tractors might use the selector valve due to mounting considerations. Flow rate is not an issue. Installation is probably easier with the E/H as the mounting plate just bolts on with no holes to drill.

 

[Dougster]

Only the mounting plate and maybe the hose lengths are different between tractor/loader models. Going with a selector valve instead of the E/H valve has to do mostly with mounting and plumbing considerations and your pocket book. For most CUTS that have loader frame mounted loader valves, the E/H setup would be the choice. Cab tractors might use the selector valve due to mounting considerations. Flow rate is not an issue. Installation is probably easier with the E/H as the mounting plate just bolts on with no holes to drill.

Well, that pretty much solidifies my choice. Even a guy like me can afford $81.00 for better function and an easier install. Thanks Mad!

Dougster

 

[wickedinhere]

WICKEDINHERE,
I need an update on how your grapple and setup performs.
Are you happy with it, does it work great?
Does the grapple get in the way when turning the bucket lip straight down to push stuff?
Can the grapple be remove easily and quickly?
Is one grapple enough rather than using 2 grapples?
I've wanted a grapple so long I can practically taste it!
Your setup looks like what I think I need.
Thanks....

My setup works great, i remove it when i am not using it cause it will get in the way if the bucket is straight down. It removes in about 5 minutes very easily i think one grapple works great on my bucket. The only thing i had to do was lengthen the hoses from the kit. If your going to be picking up big logs i suggest you get a toothbar also.

 

[n8wrl]

I got the WR Long kit for my L5030 and LA853 loader installed yesterday. After a short hydraulics-fitting-odessy yesterday and today, the grapple is attached and working.

I do have two concerns - two spots where fluid is leaking veeery slowly. One on the FEL I think I have fixed (be sure to tighten EVERYTHING you get in the kit).

The other is the short line that goes from the Power-Beyond port of the hydraulic block under the deck to the 'T' port on the WR Long valve. The kit for my loader has a very short hose (about 12-14 inches long at the most). Take a look at the picture - the elbow end of the hose is on the PB port of the hydraulic block underneath the deck - the rear(left)-most port.

Now look up. The line with the green band comes from the loader valve and USED to go to the PB port of the hydraulic block. Notice how this port points to the rear of the tractor. On the other (right) side of the WR long block is the other end of the short hose - notice how the connector points the other way - toward the front. It used to point rearward but there was no way to get it to connect, so I turned it around.

So this is my concern - the short line goes from the PB port on the block, passes above the FEL support tube, and makes a very sharp turn to come back to the WR Long 'T' port. I'd say the radius of the curve is less then 2". Is this too tight? Should I buy a longer hose? I've been battling small leaks at these connections and it's pretty cramped in there to tighten them up.

What do you hydraulics experts think? I was specific about which tractor and loader I have when I ordered this kit so it concerns me that I might have done something wrong here.

-Brian