WR long valve installed
- Thread starter wickedinhere
- Start date
- Views: 27256
jmc
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2003
- Messages
- 3,168
- Location
- SW Indiana
- Tractor
- Ford 1920 4x4 (traded in on Kubota). Case 480F TLB w/4 in 1 bucket, 4x4. Gehl CTL60 tracked loader, Kubota L4330 GST
MarkV said:
My WR Long valve kit for a Kubota LA853 loader was $570 plus $25 shipping, earlier this year.
uphill
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2006
- Messages
- 59
- Location
- south MS
- Tractor
- Kubota L4400, Cat 420E backhoe, Cat 303.5 excavator, John Deere 870
WICKEDINHERE,
I need an update on how your grapple and setup performs.
Are you happy with it, does it work great?
Does the grapple get in the way when turning the bucket lip straight down to push stuff?
Can the grapple be remove easily and quickly?
Is one grapple enough rather than using 2 grapples?
I've wanted a grapple so long I can practically taste it!
Your setup looks like what I think I need.
Thanks....
I need an update on how your grapple and setup performs.
Are you happy with it, does it work great?
Does the grapple get in the way when turning the bucket lip straight down to push stuff?
Can the grapple be remove easily and quickly?
Is one grapple enough rather than using 2 grapples?
I've wanted a grapple so long I can practically taste it!
Your setup looks like what I think I need.
Thanks....
Dougster
Veteran Member
MadReferee said:
Just to end an old man's confusion... Is the third function kit you mention what Long calls their "Electric Hydraulic Valve Kit"? And is the diverter kit you mention what Long calls their "Selector Valve Kit"? Is my understanding correct that the "Electric Hydraulic Valve Kit" lives somewhere on the tractor whereas the "Selector Valve Kit" lives on the loader? Is this the main difference in installation?
Since there is little difference in price or purpose... when should one go with one vs. the other? Or is it strictly a matter of personal preference? Must be some advantage to one over the other in certain cases if they still offer both... yes?
Lastly, are the prices you mention direct from WR Long or from another source? Does the cost of additionally required installation parts vary much between the two?
Dougster
MadReferee
Elite Member, Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2003
- Messages
- 3,862
- Location
- New Hampshire
- Tractor
- Kubota B2710, IH TD6-62 dozer with Drott 4n1 bucket loader
The Electric/Hydraulic kit is a true third function because it's a complete spool valve connected in series with the loader valve. Instead of having another lever, it's operated electrically. The valve itself mounts just below the existing loader valve on a WR Long supplied bracket.Dougster said:
The selector valve is also electrically operated but is connected to the work ports of one of the spools on the loader valve. It switches the function (usually curl) from the loader bucket to the grapple. The selector mounts on the loader arm near the bucket.
Ah, but there is a big difference. As I stated above the selector switches between a loader function and the grapple. The electric/hydraulic valve gives you another function which may be used simultaneously with the loader functions. This may not seem to matter much but it is a more flexible option and according to Nelson Long, is the most popular option.Dougster said:
WR Long does not sell direct. The prices quoted are MSRP. My local JD/WR Long dealer charged me MSRP and made his profit from that price. Your dealer's mileage may vary.Dougster said:
The kits contain just about everything you will need for a basic installation, hoses, fittings, mounting plate, valve. However, most people like to customize the installation a bit to suite their individual tastes and situations. I replaced the supplied hoses and fittings with a different setup so the disconnects were at the loader instead of the valve.
You are welcome to visit and inspect my installation.
Dougster
Veteran Member
MadReferee said:
Thanks for the clarification Mad.
Sounds like they have to be ordered specifically for a particular tractor/FEL... but come fairly complete and ready to go. That's good to know.I hear you clearly on the operational advantage and popularity of the Electric Hydraulic Valve Kit... makes sense and I'll probably go that way... but I am still not clear on when someone should choose the Selector Valve Kit. There must be a reason that Long still offers it... and it can't just be to save customers $81.00.
Any comments on that? Would the Selector Valve Kit work better on certain machines... perhaps those with very limited hydraulic flow? Are they faster/easier to install? Or again, is it strictly a matter of personal preference?Dougster
MadReferee
Elite Member, Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2003
- Messages
- 3,862
- Location
- New Hampshire
- Tractor
- Kubota B2710, IH TD6-62 dozer with Drott 4n1 bucket loader
Only the mounting plate and maybe the hose lengths are different between tractor/loader models.Dougster said:Thanks for the clarification Mad.
Going with a selector valve instead of the E/H valve has to do mostly with mounting and plumbing considerations and your pocket book. For most CUTS that have loader frame mounted loader valves, the E/H setup would be the choice. Cab tractors might use the selector valve due to mounting considerations. Flow rate is not an issue. Installation is probably easier with the E/H as the mounting plate just bolts on with no holes to drill.Dougster said:but I am still not clear on when someone should choose the Selector Valve Kit. There must be a reason that Long still offers it... and it can't just be to save customers $81.00.
OP
wickedinhere
Silver Member
My setup works great, i remove it when i am not using it cause it will get in the way if the bucket is straight down. It removes in about 5 minutes very easily i think one grapple works great on my bucket. The only thing i had to do was lengthen the hoses from the kit. If your going to be picking up big logs i suggest you get a toothbar also.uphill said:
I got the WR Long kit for my L5030 and LA853 loader installed yesterday. After a short hydraulics-fitting-odessy yesterday and today, the grapple is attached and working.
I do have two concerns - two spots where fluid is leaking veeery slowly. One on the FEL I think I have fixed (be sure to tighten EVERYTHING you get in the kit).
The other is the short line that goes from the Power-Beyond port of the hydraulic block under the deck to the 'T' port on the WR Long valve. The kit for my loader has a very short hose (about 12-14 inches long at the most). Take a look at the picture - the elbow end of the hose is on the PB port of the hydraulic block underneath the deck - the rear(left)-most port.
Now look up. The line with the green band comes from the loader valve and USED to go to the PB port of the hydraulic block. Notice how this port points to the rear of the tractor. On the other (right) side of the WR long block is the other end of the short hose - notice how the connector points the other way - toward the front. It used to point rearward but there was no way to get it to connect, so I turned it around.
So this is my concern - the short line goes from the PB port on the block, passes above the FEL support tube, and makes a very sharp turn to come back to the WR Long 'T' port. I'd say the radius of the curve is less then 2". Is this too tight? Should I buy a longer hose? I've been battling small leaks at these connections and it's pretty cramped in there to tighten them up.
What do you hydraulics experts think? I was specific about which tractor and loader I have when I ordered this kit so it concerns me that I might have done something wrong here.
-Brian
I do have two concerns - two spots where fluid is leaking veeery slowly. One on the FEL I think I have fixed (be sure to tighten EVERYTHING you get in the kit).
The other is the short line that goes from the Power-Beyond port of the hydraulic block under the deck to the 'T' port on the WR Long valve. The kit for my loader has a very short hose (about 12-14 inches long at the most). Take a look at the picture - the elbow end of the hose is on the PB port of the hydraulic block underneath the deck - the rear(left)-most port.
Now look up. The line with the green band comes from the loader valve and USED to go to the PB port of the hydraulic block. Notice how this port points to the rear of the tractor. On the other (right) side of the WR long block is the other end of the short hose - notice how the connector points the other way - toward the front. It used to point rearward but there was no way to get it to connect, so I turned it around.
So this is my concern - the short line goes from the PB port on the block, passes above the FEL support tube, and makes a very sharp turn to come back to the WR Long 'T' port. I'd say the radius of the curve is less then 2". Is this too tight? Should I buy a longer hose? I've been battling small leaks at these connections and it's pretty cramped in there to tighten them up.
What do you hydraulics experts think? I was specific about which tractor and loader I have when I ordered this kit so it concerns me that I might have done something wrong here.
-Brian
