X10 Upgrade

[rekees4300]

The 2477s is a dual band device, it has RF capability as well as powerline. Depending on distance, that can be a good option for the outbuilding on a separate power feed. I have some of the 2477s in my config, and agree the manual can be a little daunting as it covers pretty much every electrical configuration you could encounter when installing the device....

To make it work like a 3 way switch between the house and the outbuilding the part that isn't clear in the manual is the house 2477 would not have a load directly attached to it as the load will be triggered remotely via signal to the switch in the outbuilding. Under that scenario you'd wire the house 2477 for hot/neutral/ground and cap the load wire. The outbuilding would then be wired as a normal switch with the lights attached to the load. Then configure the 2477s as controller and responder. If you have a hub you can also set schedules so they come on/off relative to the sun or in response to other sensors (ie motion activated).

Probably would need the powerline approach since shed isn't friendly to RF (double metal walls). If I go with Insteon I'll order 2 of the 2477s. Setup one as the controller in the house and the other as the responder in the shed. Looked at the wiring diagram and it's incomprehensible, more wires than the X10 (black and white only). That might be a deal breaker? :confused3: Don't have a Hub. Will investigate more Insteon applications if/when that protocol solves the flood light problem.

 

[srossman]

I'll add my vote for zwave with a samsung smartthings hub.

 

[rekees4300]

I'll add my vote for zwave with a samsung smartthings hub.

I researched Z-wave for about an hour today. From what I could find out it's completely wireless, no powerline usage. Is that true? If so, have concerns it wouldn't be reliable to reach shed at 150 feet with double metal walls plus walls of house.

 

[MossRoad]

I'm sure it's not RF. The shed doesn't like RF since it 150 feet from house and has double metal walls. The controller in the house is Leviton Cat. No. 6319-1W. Don't know the shed responder number. Contacted Leviton about the 6319-1W they said it has been DISCONTINUED and they do not make a replacement.

That's old! You can get a different controller for x10. Doesn't have to be the same.

 

[rekees4300]

I've decided to deep-6 all X10 stuff and upgrade to newer protocol.

 

[MossRoad]

I've decided to deep-6 all X10 stuff and upgrade to newer protocol.

Sounds like a plan. :thumbsup:

 

[rekees4300]

Decided to replace X10 with Insteon protocol upgrade. Ordered 2 of the 2477S switches today from smarthome.com. Normal price was $50 each but with Labor Day 30% off sale (8/30 to 9/3) got both for $70. Delivery in 2 to 7 days.

Remote Control On Off Switch White | Smarthome

 

[Industrial Toys]

Each z-Wave device acts as a repeater. So only the farthest device away from any other may have a problem.

 

[MossRoad]

Decided to replace X10 with Insteon protocol upgrade. Ordered 2 of the 2477S switches today from smarthome.com. Normal price was $50 each but with Labor Day 30% off sale (8/30 to 9/3) got both for $70. Delivery in 2 to 7 days.

Remote Control On Off Switch White | Smarthome

Insteon is also compatible with X10, so you may also find a use for some of your old X10 stuff.

 

[rekees4300]

I researched Z-wave for about an hour today. From what I could find out it's completely wireless, no powerline usage. Is that true? If so, have concerns it wouldn't be reliable to reach shed at 150 feet with double metal walls plus walls of house.

Each z-Wave device acts as a repeater. So only the farthest device away from any other may have a problem.

Is it true that Z-Wave is completely wireless?

Insteon is also compatible with X10, so you may also find a use for some of your old X10 stuff.

I will keep the X10 switches for possible future projects. :thumbsup:

 

[Industrial Toys]

I think Z-Wave is like WiFi. At those high frequencies. In a way, adding yet another host of transmitters to my home/property is not really something that appeals to me.

It's like the FCC saw this coming. Back in the 70s I could not understand that disclaimer in every radio product. That it might cause harmful interference and be affected by interference and you must accept that.

 

[rekees4300]

Decided to replace X10 with Insteon protocol upgrade. Ordered 2 of the 2477S switches today from smarthome.com. Normal price was $50 each but with Labor Day 30% off sale (8/30 to 9/3) got both for $70. Delivery in 2 to 7 days.

Switches were delivered Saturday 9/8.

Sunday 9/9 attempted to install one in the shed but was unsuccessful. Receptacle has black, white and ground but switch also has red which I capped. Flood lights would not come on regardless of the switch's toggle position. LED Lights on the switch were all off except the SETUP. So I guess I have to go through some sort of setup procedure now? Will play around with that today and see what happens. Don't have a smart phone, tablet or Insteon Hub. Hopefully the setup can be done without those? :confused3: User manual is not user friendly.

 

[MossRoad]

The black is the supply power (line).
The red is the load.
The red has to be connected to the lights.

From here:
https://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2477s.pdf

 

[rekees4300]

The black is the supply power (line).
The red is the load.
The red has to be connected to the lights.

From here:
https://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2477s.pdf

That's what I tried first but if the switch's white (neutral) isn't connected to the receptacle's white (goes to flood lights) then the switch does nothing (it's died). The receptacle only has 3 wires and the switch has 4 wires so either the white or the red has to be capped.

 

[MossRoad]

So your are powering the lights by plugging them into a receptacle?

 

[MossRoad]

Can you draw out a pencil drawing of the original wiring, take a picture of it, and post it?

Or draw a simple diagram of it in Paint on your PC?

It would help a lot.

 

[MossRoad]

Are you trying to power the receptacle from the switch?

 

[rekees4300]

So your are powering the lights by plugging them into a receptacle?

No I'm probably using the term "receptacle" incorrectly? "Box" would be more accurate.

 

[MossRoad]

OK,

You should have a black and white and ground coming into the box. Correct?

And you should have two wires and maybe a ground going to the light also in that box, correct?

The wires coming from your house to that box are the feed.

Take that black feed and hook it to the black on the switch.
Take the red on the switch and hook it to the black wire that goes to the light.
Take the other wire that comes from the light, the white from the feed, and the white from the switch and hook them all together.
Ground everything.

Now, your switch always has power from the feed. When turned on or off, it will supply power to the light through the red wire. That's the only way it can work.

 

[MossRoad]

Like this....