Y385T Short Block?

   / Y385T Short Block? #11  
Creekman said:
The link you posted seems to show the engine block only; no pistons, rods, camshaft, crankshaft etc.
I believe you're correct. I linked to it because a $700 block might be a better option in this case, better than $2000 for a complete new engine. Even though possibly lacking all the components that define a typical short block, it could obviate the need for "oversize main/rod bearings and rods"

But further discussion is academic at this point, till the OP gets the tractor split.

//greg//
 
   / Y385T Short Block?
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Hey Bluechip, Tommy, Greg and Creekman:

Thanks for the info so far. I will break it in half on Friday and keep you posted. I disconnected the top half on Sunday and just have to do the bottom half. I put in a new clutch so I've been through this before.

I never though of the seal binding, that could be the case. There was no smell to the oil that would indicate that anything burned. The oil I drained didn't have any metal in it so there is hope. Plus the Bro-in-law said he shut it off and it just wouldn't crank again, no sudden stopping, no noise, so there is hope. If it is the seal I suppose I just have to pry off the old seal, clean up the crank, MAKE SURE THE BELL HOUSING TO ENGINE BOLTS ARE TIGHT,slap in the new seal and go. I have a replacement seal that came with the tractor, should I look for an American version?

If it is a bearing, I will go with a new motor Jinma Parts has one and they are only an hour from Oconto, WI, so no shipping charges (sorry Tommy).

Thanks again, Ed.
 
   / Y385T Short Block? #13  
I have never been in your position, so I'm unable to offer meaningful advice on the seal question. But I thought I'd mention one other common occurrence on the 200 Series that has made some owners initially think their engine seized.

And that is the QD connection installed in the pressure line just aft of the engine mounted hydraulic pump. There's no relief valve between the pump and that connector - a connector which has a notorious reputation for opening by itself. When the pump is pushing 2000 PSI that suddenly has nowhere to go, the engine takes only about 3-4 seconds to blow black smoke before it dies. It won't start/run normally again till that hydraulic fluid has somewhere to go - that is, the before connectors are pushed together again. If that doesn't happen in short course, expect the pump seals give up the ghost and start dumping hydraulic fluid into the engine sump

//greg//
 
   / Y385T Short Block?
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Hey All:

Thanks again for the help. Well I got it broke in half and the engine wasn't seized. What happened was one of the bolts holding the bell housing backed out far enough to jam the flywheel.

What am I torquing the flywheel and bell housing bolts at?

Thanks again, Ed.
 
   / Y385T Short Block? #16  
Well that is good news Ed,bolt torque is by the grade of bolt,I would say it's cheap insurance to replace the existing bolts while you have it split to a grade 8 bolt which we torque at 90-100 ft.pds,also use loctite on the bolts.Just because the existing bolts are not a high grade of bolt and I'm sure you don't want to do this again.

Good job on getting to the problem.

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
 
   / Y385T Short Block? #17  
Ed-
I would follow Tommy's advice and dump the original bolts and also get lockwashers for it! My manual SERIES Y85 DIESEL ENGINE :rolleyes: specs flywheel bolts @ 50-60 (N*m) so I personally wouldn't torque the original bolts above that. And it's probaly one of the reasons they became loose to begin with. Good luck -Ed
 
   / Y385T Short Block?
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Well, I got the halves put back together. No leaks! The engine is running great. Thanks for all the help.

One last question:

Anyone got a part number for the Tachometer pick-up? The flywheel ate mine.

Ed.
 

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