Yanmar YM2000 Fuel Pressure/ hard starting

[Indirocz28]

I can look them up for mine (3110) if you like. I have o idea if they would be the same as your's

I could probably just call Hoye, I’m sure they could tell me specifically. I appreciate the effort though!

 

[Indirocz28]

Just received an e-mail back from Hoye. These are the YM2000 engine torque specs that they sent me, containing rocket arm, head stud nut, crank shaft, and rod bolt torque specification:

 

[California]

Does anyone have the specifications for end gap, torque specs for rod bolts, spec and sequence for head studs?

You need the I&T Shop Manual, $27 on Ebay. Or maybe get one from a different vendor would ship overnight. This is similar to a Chilton manual but far more precise, it's written for the pro mechanic who just needs Yanmar-specific specs. Or get a real Yanmar YM240 Shop Manual, that covers everything you can imagine.

 

[kenmac]

Think I got my shop manual from Hoye years ago. It even covers rebuilding a water pump if you chose to do so

 

[Indirocz28]

Think I got my shop manual from Hoye years ago. It even covers rebuilding a water pump if you chose to do so

You need the I&T Shop Manual, $27 on Ebay. Or maybe get one from a different vendor would ship overnight. This is similar to a Chilton manual but far more precise, it's written for the pro mechanic who just needs Yanmar-specific specs. Or get a real Yanmar YM240 Shop Manual, that covers everything you can imagine.

Thanks for the info both of you!
Should I need them (as in end up keeping this tractor in service for years,) I will definitely have to order one!

 

[Indirocz28]

Ring gap was a little wide. Seems like spec is .011 to .019, and these came in at .023

Oh well, if it works it works, if not, at least it’s fairly simple to take apart again.

 

[stsid1]

Rings making full contact near the top of bore? Any air gaps between the ring and bore?

 

[Indirocz28]

Rings making full contact near the top of bore? Any air gaps between the ring and bore?

Full contact. I tried all 3 compression rings at different spots pushing it down with the piston, didn’t SEE any air gaps, but I do know these sleeves are worn, so I’m not expecting perfection, but I do hope to get some good use out of it.

 

[Indirocz28]

Okay, great news, it’s back together and running about how I had hoped (currently), very minimal hardly any blowby out of the crank vent hose. Some constant haze out of the exhaust pipe, to be expected with cylinders worn as bad as these.

I’ve got about 45 min of run time on it and a trip down the drive an back (maybe 1/4 mile). Coolant is staying around 160*, which is a far cry below the 200 it was at before. I will continue to monitor that.
It sure enough cranks up on the 2nd-3rd roll of the engine. As long as it stays like this, I’ll be happy.

The only thing detrimental so far is that for some reason now the tach is not working. I didn’t ever mess with or unscrew the cable on either side.
Any ideas on that?

 

[California]

Yay!!! :drink: